All.

Ideally I'd like to see any photos that clearly show the mounting for the coolant pipes on the rear right of the engine bay please......

On my early car, the hose  from the right of the water pump also features the additional short aluminium pipe, but no obvious bracket to hold it all in place.

I believe it had been "resting" on the air intake, but the parts manual images don't really show me the layout to confirm that.

Anyone with an "oil cooler support bracket" [108142] I'd particularly like to confirm exactly where that should attach to.

I am considering replacing the piping with the later style, but again would like to confirm exactly what, if anything supports it... the associated mounting bracket [108680]

It looks like an additional Q-clip [108682] could be used mirroring the hose on the left ?


Many thanks

JohnC

Hi all,

Desperately seeking a Delorean for Hire (with driver of course).

Is anyone free on Friday 21st July at around 3.30 for hire for a few hours for an agreeable fee?

NG15 9BE. To take my son from school, to his prom about 3 miles away.

Many, many thanks in advance,
Ian

Just started the bulk head rebuild on my project car 
Should the boards on top have the lip up or down ?

And is there a third board for the centre ?
If so there is a curve cut out of one of the existing

Or if somebody could send a picture with the carpet lifted

Hi guys

Opie Oils have a pair of tickets to Knockhill Racing Circuit up for grabs, so if you and a guest fancy spending the day watching the Scottish Championship Car Racing, then you may be in luck!



To be in with a chance of winning these tickets, all you have to do is drop us a PM titled SMRC. In the message, please include your full name, the name of your guest, your address, telephone number and email address - this will make sure that we can get in touch with you as quickly as possible after the winner has been selected.

- Please only apply if you are able to attend on Sunday 2nd July, as it would be a shame for the tickets to go to waste -

Should you be the lucky winner of these tickets, your guest and yourself will meet a member of the David Sleigh Race Team at the gates at 10:30AM on Sunday 2nd July. They will then provide you with your passes and bring you accross to their race awning, skipping the waiting lines. Here, you can meet this awesome racing team, hang out for the day and have some lunch whilst watching one of the best events of the season.

"Scottish Championship Car Racing organised by the SMRC, has a superb range of racing classes, a super-slick racing format with around 18 races to entertain you during an action-packed afternoon. Action will come from Scottish Formula Ford, Legends, Mini Coopers, BMW Compacts, Fiestas, Sports & Saloon and Classic Sports & Saloon Championships. A jam-packed programme will keep you enthralled, bemused and entertained throughout the day. The Knockhill track provides the perfect platform for open, exciting and wheel-to-wheel racing – which is always spectacular across all classes!"

You can find full details of the event HERE, and David Sleigh Racings page HERE. Please feel free to drop us a line too if you need any further information, we're in the office Monday to Friday 8:30 - 5:30 on 01209 202 944 or via email on sales@opieoils.co.uk.

As the event is for this weekend, get those messages in quick, the winner will be picked at random and contacted by Friday 30th at the latest. Best of luck guys!

Cheers,

Oilman

Issue 76 of DeLorean News has just been posted out and should be with everyone by the weekend. Another superb issue of our top quality magazine.

Just looking for a pointer, Same me changing everything , I have no power to the starter , Could anybody point me to a relay or fuse "Please"

Just in the progress of putting a new clutch in LJH. A friend has let me use one of his lifts at his garage.
New rear oil seal in and new clutch are in. Gearbox back in and new clutch slave fitted. 
Re greased drive shafts and fitted new cv boots. Decided to do the tabs while I had access to a lift.
Got one TAB out late this afternoon. Check the pic
If you haven't checked yours I would suggest you do.
This was seized as well as bent.

Nick H

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Good Morning,
 
Should this e-mail not be of any interest to you then please discard. 
 
I was wondering if you wouldn’t mind advising your members about our Vintage and Classic Car event which is to be held at  Netherby Hall, Longtown, Cumbria.
 
The Vintage and Classic Car show will be held on Sunday 20th August 2017.  Exhibiting cars are expected to arrive between 9am and 10.30am, entrance to car, driver and one passenger is FREE.
 
Visitors are invited to view the vehicles between 11am and 4pm, refreshments will be available on the day.
 
I have attached a copy of our poster and a Registration Form, if you could pass these on it would be very much appreciated.
 
Thank you for your time.
 
Stephanie Marshall
PA/Event Planner
Netherby Hall
01228 792732

Anybody have any experience in removing the wooden surround in front of battery ,


Thanks

Hello owners!
 
I thought I will write little article about Air Con (A/C) system on D as it is not the best design from electrical point of view. I will focus on electrical part as I'm Electrical Engineer working in automotive, so I know how it should be done properly.
 
Let's assume that your A/C system is filled with gas to correct pressure, engine is running, but no cold air is coming from vents, neither compressor is kicking in. I assume also that your fuses and relays are OK.






I suggest diagnosis in reverse:
 
1. Your compressor is not kicking in when you turn on A/C on (engine running, your fan at speed 1 minimum). That can be easily diagnosed - your compressor pulley is not engaging - this can be seen/heard.
To check if fault is with compressor (electromagnetic clutch) you disconnect RED wire that is on top of it and bypass it straight to +12V on your battery. Good practice is to use wire with fuse (in this case I would use 15-20A fuse and 1.5mm^2 wire) as in case of short on your clutch you will blow fuse, not melt wire!
 
REMEMBER TO SUPPLY POWER TO COMPRESSOR ONLY FOR FEW SECONDS! If you leave power permanently system will generate too high pressure and pipe will explode and release gas! You doing this only for diagnostic purpose. When A/C is on, compressor goes on and off all the time to keep certain pressure! It is not working all the time.
 
 
If you compressor is working once you supply power, it means problem is somewhere else. If compressor is seized you will see some serious shit happening with your belt, so be prepared (Always were adequate protection, in this case Safety Glasses)!

Once you done with diagnosing, remember to reconnect wire to original terminal!
 
2. Low pressure switch is your next suspect! Why? Unfortunately it is related to overall system design. When you energize compressor clutch, there is huge current spike as electromagnetic clutch is a big coil. This is causing sparking on all contacts (working contacts) all way down starting with your A/C Instrument Panel mode switch, through pressure switches. Sparking is causing contacts corrosion which after X amount of cycles will stop conducting current and results in your A/C not working at all. I would like to believe that whole system was designed to be operating witch such current spikes, but I have my doubts. To make it bulletproof you can make one small improvement that will let you forget about A/C electrical issues, but I will talk about this on the end of my post.

Now let’s go back to low pressure switch:



 
 
This switch is in open state when there is too low pressure in system. When pressure is correct, it should be closed.
Disconnect wires from it and check terminals for corrosion. Check with multimeter if switch is closed state (Remember, I assumed on beginning that you have correct gas pressure in system) . If switch is showing open state, then there is possibility that :
a) your gas pressure is too low to operate and you need to re-gas it (my assumption was wrong! You did not check it in first place! )
or
b) your pressure switch is faulty!
This can be replaced even with gas in system, however sometimes valve might be stuck and when you will be removing it, it will release some portion of gas with oil (ON YOUR FACE!) so please use all protective equipment like safety glasses/mask to cover your face and gloves. I would not remove it until you have replacement.
 
If you sure that your gas pressure is correct (as your system was just regased and checked for leaks!), you can short that switch and check if your compressor will kick in (engine running! fan speed 1 minimum). You short it using fuse (15A-20A). Basically, push on connectors on fuse. If it starts, you got faulty low pressure switch. Shorting this switch is only dangerous if you have no gas/oil in system as you will seize compressor. Remember, you are shorting this only to diagnose the system.
 
If switch is in closed state then go to next point :
 
3. High pressure switch
 

 
This switch is normally in closed state. Will be open once Air Con system will reach some certain value (preventing your system from blowing up. That is why in section 1. I warned you about not running your compressor for more than for few seconds as by-passing this switch is dangerous for longer than few seconds).
Diagnosis - remove connectors from switch and check for corrosion. Check using multimeter if switch is showing closed circuit. If no and you know that your gas pressure is correct you can short connector for few seconds using 15A-20A fuse to check if your compressor will kick in. If it will kick in, you got faulty high pressure switch. If nothing happens, go to next point.
 
4. A/C Panel
 
 
 
Your MODE SWITCH contacts might be worn due to sparking, as I said before, whole load to compressor goes through switches. Here is example of contact corrosion:
 

 
That deposit on your contacts prevents conduction. Good thing is that this can be rescued with some contact cleaner and really fine sand paper (800+). Removing HVAC panel takes a bit of time, so I would leave it for the end as I did in this tutorial.
Once all those elements are checked and in working condition your system should be in working order, unless wiring is damaged.

To diagnose that you will need multimeter with buzzer option to “ring” wires. If you own a DeLorean you possibly have wiring diagram, if not, it can be easily found on the internet.  Here is snapshot of important bit:




High pressure switch is between number 90 and 91 where you have a bump on diagram. Not sure why it is not marked there.

To make system bulletproof from electrical point of view you need to make little upgrade. Basically, you need to introduce a relay that will take a load from switches contacts. It can be added in the cabin or in engine room. Decision is up to you.

Cabin option: you will need to find wire in passenger legroom going back to compressor. That wire will control relay. On top of that you will have to get +12V and Earth, so system can work. Remember that your +12V can’t go straight from battery. You need to introduce fuse (I suggest 15-20A fuse and 1.5mm^2 wire). Earth can be local or straight from negative post of battery. You will have to fix your relay somewhere next to HVAC. You can use relay/relay base with fixing point or introduce relay box (this will help to soundproof relay cycling sound).

Engine room option: you will have to disconnect compressor flying lead and extend wire long enough to reach your relay (+ return wire to energize compressor clutch). This wire will be controlling relay. As in cabin option, you will have to get +12V and earth, so system can work. This solution is for “purists” as does not involve cutting OEM wiring and can be reversed by disconnecting upgrade kit (BUT WHY WOULD YOU WANT THAT?!), however relay/relay box will be visible in engine room.

Your circuit should look like this after modification:

Remember to put your relay in dry place or introduce a relay box to cover it when exposed to moisture. Don’t be cheap and invest in relay base. In case of relay fault, replacement will be easy.

If you want go step further you can get a relay with fuse. However this can be only used next to battery or when you connecting to already fused line. Reason is that if your wire shorts to ground before this fuse, it will melt wire/boil battery as there is no protection on that portion.

I hope that somebody will find this short article helpful. Unfortunately, I don’t have photos of switches locations (I do not own DeLorean yet, but worked on them).
I bet somebody will upload them under my post... (be that guy!)
If you have any doubt, think there is mistake in what I wrote, please let me know. I will try to explain more or correct my mistake.


Remember, this tutorial describes only electrical part of A/C system. It assumes that mechanical part is in working order.

kind regards,
Marek