Hey everyone,

Heres my first Tech advice post so let me know if descriptions/names of parts are wrong ect. Been watching you lot natter for a good few years now so hopefully ive picked up the basics

I know the door lights have a tendency to seep power from the battery and are often disconnected or modified to work better. When I bought my car I knew there were various problems with the electrics. Having done abit of research I discovered that most of them fed back to the same circuit (interior,door,luggage compt. lights ect).

Initially I thought that the problem lay in a cut wire on the drivers side (one of two feeding the door light switch), However on reconnecting the wire there was no progress, I then re-disconnected it. Traced the circuit back to fuse 12 in the fuse box - it was empty! I put a new 10amp fuse in place and BINGO! all the lights came on apart from the drivers door. I tried the cut wire once again and the drivers door worked apart from an old bulb. (all of which i plan to replace with LEDs at some point)

Whilst looking over various bits and bobs for about 10mins, the lights went out! The fuse had blown.

So.. Questions...

1. Has anyone ever heard about cutting a door light wire to aid this problem? or did the original owner just get so sick of the fuse going or power seeping out that he cut the wire (seems abit harsh - theres a plug right next to it :? )

2. When I had the lights on (10mins tops) the drivers door was left disconnected - could this break in the circuit have caused the fuse to blow?

3. I also seem to have a promlem with the door ajar light coming on, I think because of a faulty switch. Could this have anything to do with it?

4. How come theres a switch for the light and one for the door on the drivers side but only one on the passengers side?

Any light on the subject would be great!

Cheers!

http://www.channel4.com/4car/ft/feature/feature/7314/1

Thought it worthy of a mention...

Well, seems my plugs may not have been changed in the last 50,000 miles for all I know, since I've overlooked it the entire time I've had my car. Might explain its reluctance to start :). I got a new set, but is there anything I need to know about fitting them? The workshop manual gives a torque but I don't have a torque wrench so I'm just going to be guessing about that. Is it particularly important? And do I need to adjust the gap on them?

Hi all. The electric mirrors on BLM2Y did work until about a month ago, then stopped with no apparent reason. I've checked the fuse. Does anyone know a weak link in this department?? New switch maybe? There is nothing happening on either side... completely dead...
Cheers all
Mr. P

..bay



There's no problem in using heat shrink to wrap the wiring in the engine bay is there? I can't find a clear yes or no, which makes me think there isn't a problem :lol:

It'd just look neater, that's all. Some of the tape that's on the wiring ATM is melted and I'd like to replace it (wires themselves are good).


cheers big ears!
Barzo.

I have a copy of a 1981 AutoCar mag if any wants it.

(with delorean in it...duh!)

Does anyone have a Pewter DeLorean Model they want rid of? I've been trying ages to get a hold of one.

The DeLorean is technically a British car, but it was made for America...so my question is:

When the cars were brand new, did the cars indicators stay on constant?

Try going onto this website:

http://www.43things.com/search/query?q=delorean&x=0&y=0

It displays all the things people want...delorean wise. Or type in a word on the search engine at the top.

Well, we all thought Rich went Missing in action. I was cleaning out my garage this weekend and when I took the planks off I found Rich !!!!!!!



NickT.