Cant remember which thread I commented on with some old photos, but have managed to find some more....

PUM436 was at the West Midlands Motor Museum - which was around the same time that Supercar Sunday was on, the highlight of which was the arrival of the Delorean Cavalcade... a couple of pictures attached too - dating back to around 2001 I think it was.

On another note, just got back from Florida, where I was lucky to find DMC Florida, which on the day I called (just managed to find it before closing time) had 19 (19!!!!!) in various states of service/repair/for sale - including a BTTF car on display too!!! - cant add any pictures as the files are too big!!!

Attached Files

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Not taken by me, I found it on a “spotted” Facebook group.

Looking at the info from a car check, it’s a 1983 and registered in the U.K. April 1986
Any more info on this one?
(It looks to be a right hooker.....and has a roof aerial)

Hi all,

The rev counter has never worked since I've owned the car and I think it's about time I figure it out.

It's currently sat at 5000rpm. That's with the car running and also when the car is off and battery disconnected.

I do remember that at some points it will shift to another value and sit there instead (e.g. 3k). It's never gone down to 0.

So what should I check and in what order?

I reckon it's the tachometer itself. Either have to get it repaired or buy a replacement

So after travelling for upwards of 40 miles today in the 30 degree heat, both the Mrs and I were rather hot!!
As you can guess, the aircon is not working..... my first port of call is to get her checked for leaks and recharged.
But, as I’ve read, our cars are charged with r12 gas and the newer r134a needs upgrades to the system...... question is what to do?

I don’t really want to start replacing parts of the system just yet!

I have an aircon guy I use, so I will contact him of course, but how do you guys manage with getting regassed?


Cheers
Tris

Thought I’d start a new thread on this, just in case it’s of help to anyone in the future....

In my case, the temp gauge always stayed pinned at 100f. 
The usual grounding check did nothing to the gauge when ignition was on, despite installing a new temp sender, and cleaning all connections on the bulk head.
(If you’re reading this for help, do the above first)

So, next I checked continuity between the connector on the temp sender and the connector on the bulk head, and this was fine.
(It’s the white connector nearest to the firewall under the yellow one, 3rd pin opening up on the right of the connector - or simply trace the wire colour to the pin)

Next, I checked continuity from the engine bay all the way to the binnacle. I didn’t want to remove the binnacle yet - so I performed some “on the back tests” in the footwell, seeing as all 3 connection bolts for the gauge are accessible when looking up.
With the ignition on, I checked for power on the bottom bolt (ground) and the right middle bolt (live).
Thankfully for me, there was 12v. 

This means there’s a continuity issue between the bulkhead and the gauge.

So next I ran a long cable from the engine bay connector into the car and used that to check continuity with my multimeter to the back of the gauge. 
(The sender signal bolt is the left middle bolt)
I had ZERO continuity on the bolt itself, BUT I did have good continuity on the circuit board under the nut that connects the circuit to the bolt.....

AH HA!!!!! Thankfully continuity is intact from the engine bay, from the bulk head, to the binnacle connector and the circuit board.

Now - this is were the solution is to remove the binnacle and replace the nut with a nice brass one to get a proper connection.
Whilst this IS what I will be doing - I want to get out and enjoy the car and do this over the winter.....

So I cheated..... I ran a brand new wire from the back of the gauge, through the bulk head and on to the temp sender......
Hey presto, TEMPERATURE GAUGE IS WORKING!!!!!

Wooo hoooooo!!!!

WEST BERKS CLASSIC VEHICLE CLUB
classicvehicles.org.uk
                                                                               
26th Annual
NEWBURY CLASSIC VEHICLE SHOW
NEWBURY COLLEGE
RG14 7TD
IN SUPPORT OF BLOODWISE
 
SUNDAY 12th AUGUST 2018

Dear Chris, Dave and Claire,
 
We are keen to offer your Car Club members complimentary entrance fee to exhibit their vehicles at the Epping Automotive & Aviation Revival on 6th & 7th July 2019. The event will be held at Historic North Weald Airfield in Essex and comprise of:
 
·         Heritage Aircraft & Warbirds, Classic Cars & Motor Cycles
·         Vintage Fashion, Period Dress and Music form the 20’s, 30’s and 40’s
·         WWII Re-enactment groups & their Vehicles
·         Food and Drink Festival, Funfair and Children’s Activity Area.
 
Media 10 is the company behind The Ideal Home Show, Grand Designs and The Queen’s Coronation Festival at Buckingham Palace.
 
The attached letter includes additional venue and event information as well as images from the airfield. We would be grateful if you might share this information with your members and let us know if you would like to join us.
 
Our warm regards and we look forward to hearing from you
 
Simon Polledri
Event Director
 
SW:    020 3225 5200
Email: simon.polledri@media-ten.com
Web: www.media-ten.com
Media 10 Ltd, Crown House, 151 High Road, Loughton. IG10 4LF
 
References
Her Majesty the Queen’s Coronation Festival - https://www.coronationfestival.com/
Ideal Home show - http://www.idealhomeshow.co.uk/
Grand Designs Live https://www.granddesignslive.com/
Media 10 - https://www.media-ten.com/about-us

Morning!!!

I checked online today and 11477 is registered! And in just 9 working days!!!
Weekend is going to be busy!!!!

I picked this up the other day, thought it was worth scanning in.

Anyone know which car it was? The odd position of the DMC Quality Assured sticker might be a clue?

I think I may need a new otterstat.
While I was working on the car yesterday and turned the ignition on (not started) the rad fans kicked in immediately.
Last time I drove her was the 30mile round trip to the MOT a week ago.
So I guess the otter switch is stuck open (or closed...whichever keeps the fans on). I will disconnect the wire to check.

But I hear that an Austin Metro switch is suitable?
Does this look like the right one to those in the know?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=...2343683493

Tris