Hi,
Just got the engine back in. Unfortunatly forgot to make an exact note of what wires came from the starter and alternator (dohh) The small ones i'm OK on its just the larger ones as in:
2 large red wires, 1 looks like it comes from the battery the other from the jump lead post, where do these go and which way round?
3 sets of large brown wires each containing 3 large brown wires, 2 appear to be in one group exiting the loom the other exits furthur down. Where do these go please?
Thanks
Chris

I know it's sad to watch BTTFs over and over again millions of times weekly, but I used to do that when I was still at secondary school when I had no internet or cars to "play" with.... :roll:

By doing so, I have spotted so many flaws and shots that shows different object placements/ settings... which they aren't meant to be.

BTTF 2 is the one which I have spotted most flaws. When DOC and marty first landed at the future Hill Valley, the shots switch between the real and the fake D (for flying shots).... First, the fake D has poking out wheel nuts, silver centre badge, the doors don't shut, and I remember there are differences between the white tyre lettering too!

Then when they opened the door, passenger side's door mirror is bent to the closed position, but then the next second, it's back in normal position. Also, some shots shows the D have door straps, but some shows no door straps fitted...

Then for the shot when Doc has to chase behind Biff's car in 1955, the shot clearly shows the fake D's rollers. And the welded wheel too! But not sure if I am correct, you could also spot one of Marty's body harness' buckles that kept him "hoovering".

And in all three of the films, there are 2 different versions of the digital speedometer, one with 2 digits but third digit blanked out with black tape, one with 2 digits but first digit blanked out.

Anyway, I know this is a rubbish post, but just wanted to share the above pics which I have found in my hard drive when I was backing up the data. If I find more, I would probably add to the list if you guys don't mind? I am not putting down the films... they are clearly legend and I love all three of them! I am doing this just for a good laugh :wink:

Right, i feel like a dipstick for asking, but I have changed the gasket on the auto transmission sump and refilled to 4.5 litres (to max when hot). Lovley jubbly. No leaks. Took her out for a spin, came back and then checked again. She is leaking from the lip of the sump, so I guess I have mucked up the sump fitting (again). Before I took it all apart I noticed it was leaking from below the dipstick area. I had issues a while back where the dipstick tube leaks where it enters the sump. The bolt that holds it tight to the sump is cross threaded so i used an o ring and wedged it back in as good as I could. It worked, but I reckon the 2 transmission gasket changes in 48 hrs has upset it. I am having trouble getting it to seal again, not as easy as it was before. I have drained the sump a little and cleaned the tube and sump area up and aPplied gasket gunk to the o rings and slotted it back in. I will wait til tomorrow and refill and see if it has worked. If it does not, does anyone have any ideas? The o ring is not an exact fit, but IT should be good enough to hold. The lack of bolt retention means it can work its way out. I am hoping the gasket gunk will seal and give me a vibration proof seal taht 'glues' the tube in.

Its such a simple pain that is causing me a headache......

grrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Sorry to tag onto an older thread....

Dean - although the water is appearing at the rear of the cabin - it's likely getting in at the front and collecting under the T panel.

When you get a chance - have a go at removing the T roof and checking out the area above the windscreen - and immediately behind.
Strong chance that the water is coming through there (in which case some sealant should help).
Also whilst the roof is off - worth checking out the surrounding areas (incl the tray and gullies).

Regards

Darren

Anyone else had problems getting the fuel accumulator out?

The accumulator is out but hanging by the pipework.
One pipe has flaked away completely leaving the white fabric exposed, the other spilt, so these have to be unscrewed from the fuel system as well.

But will they unscrew after 25 years!? No!
Because of the small space, it's only possible to use stubby 17 and 19mm spanners.....

Am I just a 12 stone weakling?

Now the car can't be moved it's gotta happen here on the driveway!

Thanks for any help!

Mat
#3866
DOC 100

my tickover has started to go up and down even when hot, then it settles down, before i start getting the hump :evil: , is this usually down to vacuum leak? thanks TT Tony

Hi

I own a classic and sports car hire company (i won't post the name as i don't want the post to be deleted)

We are looking at expanding our range and are considering getting a delorean.

Do the members think this would be popular ? How much would people be willing to pay ? and finally would people pay a premium for a RHD one ?

Many thanks

Geoff

Driveshaft UK
Unit 4
Victoria Buildings
Newhall Street
Willenhall
WV13 1LQ
01902 602103

Collected on Monday, refurbed on Tuesday and it was back to me on Wednesday morning. Total cost inc VAT £86 (May 2007)

They have identified the rack as being "a generic Lotus one"

well just looking over ebay, i think some people just aint using there head when it comes to putting a price on the delorean their selling..

http://motors.search.ebay.com/delorean_ ... samcmZ6001

i want em cheaper so i can afford one

Just ordered a new steering rack for my D, as it failed the MOT due to this.
Ive just fitted some new discs and pads to the front, and still I get wobble when braking.
Im now presuming that a dodgy steering rack can cause wobble when braking. Can anyone confirm that? :?