Normally I would suggest checking that the flexi line has been changed, however I'm sure this will have been done. First check you have fluid in the reservoir (not sure where this is on yours) the pipe from reservoir to master cylinder can leak/fail, check inside your car where the master cyl comes inside, that may have leaked.
Other than that it's likely to be the master cyl or slave cyl that's failed (or both) It's not uncommon for one to fail and the other follow.
Both can be done from above the car not underneath. though slave cyl may help if you can get underneath.
Chris
If your stuck google pics on the net or feel free to give me a call.
Hi Chris,
Thanks for the advice.
I have checked all the lines and pipes - they all look relatively new.
The master cylinder also looks new, however looking at the slave - it looks quite rusty - so I think I'll change that first and see what happens.
Clutch slave swapping is not a nice job, but it's not difficult, just tedious and uncomfortable. Basically, you'll be needing a step stool at the back of the car, a bunch of towels or something else soft to lie on, and then do a "superman" over the engine with your hands and arms reaching down the back of the engine to get access to the slave. I think from memory, a 13mm spanner, and an 8mm spanner (short as you can get). Sometimes, depending on your pilates themed physical agility, you may have to access some of the slave from underneath the car, in which case you'll want to get the back end up off the ground and onto some ramps (i say ramps rather than axle stands, as this will be safer when you're still clambering around on and off of the car, lying on the engine etc) From memory, i've needed to do the job from underneath, and on top. Both time's i've done it in 12 years.
I'm sure no need to point out the obvious, but you'll want to bleed out the clutch lines via the bleed nipple on the slave before full removal from the hardline and the bolts on the gearbox casing.
I'm not far down the road from you (potentially, depending on where in Leicestershire you stay) being in Rugby myself, and if it wasn't for this pesky pandemic, I could have offered my services to help you out if needed.
Good luck :-)
Rissy
(Forum Member 288)
(DOC Member 663)
May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
Grey, Flapped, Black
Chassis: #1073
Engine: #2839
Main Car(s):
2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue
2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
Think I will attempt your Superman technique over the engine - with my beer belly - there's no chance of even getting near under the car - plus with the clutch totally non operational - can't even drive it onto ramps.
Did you have to remove the inlet manifold to get access over the top?
Thanks for your offer of help - if it weren't for the pandemic - I'd certainly take your offer up. I live in Ashby-de-la-Zouch - so a fair way from Rugby. But I'm sure you will hear me swear and curse all the way from your place on Saturday when I have another go.
Leave the engine complete as is. Lie over the top of the engine (being careful not to damage anything!) using the air filter box as your comfy pillow (I supplement this with more cushioning myself. Something like a foam kneeling mat or the likes with a towel thrown over it for good measure. You’ll be there a while, and/or on and off like a yo-yo, so might as well be as comfortable as possible. Note (because you mentioned the beer belly) I do this, but only weigh about 64kgs and have no beer belly. So I can’t account for what might not like being laid upon if you’re a lot heavier. That’s my attempt at a disclaimer
Rissy
(Forum Member 288)
(DOC Member 663)
May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
Grey, Flapped, Black
Chassis: #1073
Engine: #2839
Main Car(s):
2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue
2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
As I wrote in the other thread, and to echo what the other Chris wrote, easy to do from above but unlike the whippet Chris M I too have a beer belly hence why I remove the fueling first!
Chris
Well - using the lying over the engine technique - I managed to remove the slave cylinder without taking the manifold off the car. Took about half an hour.
The clutch fluid line was a pit of a pain - but eventually got it off without rounding the corners.
Now it's just a case of putting the new one back in!
Interestingly I found a disconnected cable behind the engine - not sure what it connects to - but I've re-connected it. It might solve the issue of engine running rich on start up - Fingers crossed!
(08 Mar 2021, 20:28)Chris Williams Wrote: the whippet Chris M
Brilliant.
(10 Mar 2021, 12:09)Derfel Wrote: Well - using the lying over the engine technique - I managed to remove the slave cylinder without taking the manifold off the car. Took about half an hour.
The clutch fluid line was a pit of a pain - but eventually got it off without rounding the corners.
Now it's just a case of putting the new one back in!
Well done. We can call you a whippet now too!
(10 Mar 2021, 12:09)Derfel Wrote: Interestingly I found a disconnected cable behind the engine - not sure what it connects to - but I've re-connected it. It might solve the issue of engine running rich on start up - Fingers crossed!
A cable that goes down that direction around that area is the reverse signal cable from the gearbox. You could look at the wire colours and check the schematic to assure yourself you've connected something good rather than bad and give yourself another headache.
Rissy
(Forum Member 288)
(DOC Member 663)
May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
Grey, Flapped, Black
Chassis: #1073
Engine: #2839
Main Car(s):
2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue
2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
Think I've traced what it was - 2 blue and black wires and a separate black wires - think they feed the cold start valve looking at the wiring diagram.
Will have to see if it starts any better once all the bits are back together on the engine.
Quote:Now it's just a case of putting the new one back in!
Just be really careful with the clutch fork that you don't drop it or dislodge it in the bell housing!
Quote:
Derfel Wrote: Wrote:Interestingly I found a disconnected cable behind the engine - not sure what it connects to - but I've re-connected it. It might solve the issue of engine running rich on start up - Fingers crossed!
A cable that goes down that direction around that area is the reverse signal cable from the gearbox. You could look at the wire colours and check the schematic to assure yourself you've connected something good rather than bad and give yourself another headache.
Just to echo the above, there is a loose plug in the area your working in (I forget what it was for without looking it up), may have been for an auto or something else.
Chris
Didn't realize that I could loose the clutch fork into the bell housing - now the thought of it makes my shake with fear! lol!! fingers crossed. don't fancy taking the gearbox off!
Thought I would take a picture of the loose wire connector - I managed to find what looks like the other end of the connector and it fits OK. Slightly worried that is looks slightly melted on the photo.
Is it connected like that on your car by any chance?
Do I risk it for a biscuit and start her up and see if anything goes pop?
The plug up against the engine bay bulkhead is the plug i was referring to. The one with Green/Brown and Light Green/White wires coming out of it. That's your reverse light switch wires.
The main wires you're asking about is a bit confusing to me. The colours are throwing me a bit. The black/blue wires, i think will be going to your solenoid valve (behind where the red and black wires disappear into the loom tape - hex bolted to the air intake chamber) and will also connect to your idle speed micro switch and bulkhead connection 49 (white church spire plug under the blue one, second pin up on the left) black should be a ground connection. The reason it's throwing me though is the red. That doesn't belong there. Should be green if anything. Maybe previously melted wires along with the plug meaning a previous owner has "fixed" it with a replacement red wire?
I'd trace out the wires to the places i've mentioned, or bell them out with your meter at those points to validate. If they are the wires for the solenoid valve, then this wont affect the car being started, but could stunt the performance at higher ends of revs due to the lack of advance triggering from the valve on the dizzy.
Don't trust my guess though. Best course of action is to trace them out or at the very least, bell them out. If they don't bell out at those points, then i'll have another think.
Rissy
(Forum Member 288)
(DOC Member 663)
May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
Grey, Flapped, Black
Chassis: #1073
Engine: #2839
Main Car(s):
2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue
2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
Well the good news was that I managed to replace the clutch slave cylinder this evening. I was very lucky and everything went back in to place without much effort. I bled the system - the fluid was very dirty. Then when I can to test it I discovered that the clutch master cylinder had decided to empty a load of fluid into the footwell! So I've ordered a new one of them - at least it's a lot easier to fit !!
I ran out of time this evening with the wires - so as a precaution , I've unplugged them to return the car to where it was previously and I'll do some proper electrical investigation into it over the weekend. Thanks Rissy for all the advice .
Interestingly I was watching a video on YouTube of a DeLorean for sale - and in the shot of the engine bay was my plug with the two black an blue wires, not connected to anything, cable tied to the firewall. I'll let you know what I discover!
