I helped this guy - a real petrol head develop a "Turnbuckle" adjuster for the Delorean. he'd posted on here quite a while back but nothing seems to have come from it.
Restoring #11789 and having the alternator belt on and off many times - fitting exhausts, sensors , wiring ...I got frustrated at trying to tension the alternator then tighten everything up. As I say - done it loads of times.
This bracket makes replacement/tensioning an absolute dream.
I've removed the original bracket , bagged it and will keep it - so please if there are any DeLorean owners who frown on this, the car can easily be returned to stock.
Phil is on E bay and facebook . If you were to price up the components & factor in overheads and it's a fair price.
I've not had to mess with my alternator much in the last 9yrs, but still, i could be tempted by this. There's a comment on FB asking to still check the measurement required!? I'd have thought we would all be the same!?
Rissy
(Forum Member 288)
(DOC Member 663)
May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
Grey, Flapped, Black
Chassis: #1073
Engine: #2839
Main Car(s):
2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue
2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
Hi Chris.
I did ask (worldwide) for centre to centre dimensions and the stock seems to be 95mm. But some answers varied.
You will always get owners who use a nonspecific "part" (Belt/Alternator/water pump) which could affect the stock dimension. I told him to add that in the description as his profits would take a hammering if he was inundated with returns. ..and we all know that DeLoreans differ :-)
I installed mine and just initially adjusting by hand you are almost at "tension" - then you finish it off with 14mm spanner on the centre section and and 15mm on the lock nuts.
Belt squeal gone in a jiffy if you suffer from that ?
It's a no brainner and is completely reversible by putting the original bracket back on..
Think of it like a "special tool" you buy that hangs around the garage for ages unused. Then "boom" are you glad that you have it when you need it!
I can't over emphasis how nice a guy Phil is - he does great work - he also does custom starter wires too - he loves cars!!
he sent me a proto type - I fed back with minor adjustments - I've given the original one away to Miles in Bristol - except he left it on my workbench on the week end !! :-)
So when somebody asks you "what do you want for Xmas - something not too big" - here ya go.
One day you will thank me for getting one!! :-)
He's based in Kidderminster - let's support guys like this?
Vin 11789 (probably #50 of the Middle East batch of 50)
(15 Aug 2018, 12:48)Rissy Wrote: I also read something about something needing bored out from a standard 7mm to an 8mm? That's not the block tap is it?
No boring out of the webbing is required.
I still had the original alternator on 11789 - as mine is one of the middle eastern cars although built in Jan 82 they were all fitted with the old underpowered Alternator which had a M7 nut n bolt on the alternator housing.
The replacement Alternator bought from DeloreanGo takes M8 as standard.
As I was providing all the dimension aspects of this project to Phil, I had to cover these scenarios
The turnbuckle has left hand and right hand rose joints which are designed for M8.
You could ream out the original alternator hole (the hole on the Alternator housing) for M8 or I guess you could use an M7 but because of the depth of the rose joint you would probably have to get a longer M7?
Just covering all bases really - some owners are fastidious after all.
so just to confirm - The webbing which has a captive M6 nut remains unaltered.
Vin 11789 (probably #50 of the Middle East batch of 50)
