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Rear quarter window seal
#1
Previous owner window seal repair failed a few weeks ago and I've pulled the panel to remove the glass, prep the panel for refit etc... 

I cannot get the seal to hold to the corners properly at all. The sika 291i is just not holding it, and even with Ed suggesting tape to hold it whilst curing all I've ended up with is a mess.

Can anyone recommend a process for fitting? I will have to just skip the seal at this rate. Four times I've tried and all have failed.
VIN 4494, Grey interior, 5 speed, October 1981
DOC 757
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#2
I've used Black Silka...... not sure of the number, I didn't fit a seal, propped and taped it in position for 24 hours until it was dry No problems. Then trimmed off any access, (although a cloth dipped in petrol after a couple of hours makes a neat job too)
Chris Parnham

Ex RHD Auto's etc.etc

Main Car.. Kia E Niro 4+
Toyota Vitz 4X4 1999 (the smallest 4X4 by far!)
Toyota RAV4 EV 1999.
1970 Jago Jeep.

DOC Club Historian 
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#3
I thought Tiger Seal was the preferred choice for fitting the window glass.
Rissy
(Forum Member 288)
(DOC Member 663)

May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
Grey, Flapped, Black
Chassis: #1073
Engine: #2839

Main Car(s):
2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue
2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
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#4
I think a black, UV resistant Poly-U sealant of suitable quality is the guideline. I tried Tiger Seal first with the rubber channel seal and it didn't work out, so I swapped to the Sika 291i at recommendation of Ed and others for my next attempts. Still no luck on the rounded corners, the rubber seal just does not like to stay in that shape.

Will be a shame to lose the seal as the other side is done all nicely with the rubber seal, but this side is a P/O special and had used no rubber seal and some sort of tar-based sealant in the past (what a ballache it was to clean it all up, goopy and nasty). But at this stage I think I might settle and go without the seal. Wasted too many of these lovely weather weekends working on rather than driving the car.

Thanks for the responses!
VIN 4494, Grey interior, 5 speed, October 1981
DOC 757
Reply
#5
Being an early car, my car has no seals. I don't miss them.
Rissy
(Forum Member 288)
(DOC Member 663)

May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
Grey, Flapped, Black
Chassis: #1073
Engine: #2839

Main Car(s):
2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue
2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
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#6
Tried again this weekend, failed again this weekend. All I'm doing is making a mess of the panel with polyurethane sealant now. After 24 hour it seems to cure to the Stainless but not to the seal itself, so on taking the tape off the seal just comes with it.

Missing all this good weather because of a stupid window seal. I swear to god after all the trouble I had with the water pump last year and now this that the car is done with me and is just trying to convince me to sell her.

Pro-tip for anyone reading this thread in the future; Just don't ***** do this job ever.
VIN 4494, Grey interior, 5 speed, October 1981
DOC 757
Reply
#7
(05 Aug 2018, 15:12)jwrayth Wrote: Just don't Ducking do this job ever.

Funny that (not at your predicament of course but at the conversation topic) as Rich and I were just talking the other week ago about my partial interest in swapping out my rare left hand air intake vent for one which allows for an electric aerial to be fitted.  When i was told that it required taking the glass out first, just to get the vent out, i said "no way then! it's staying as it is in that case!"  Big Grin

You should get some advice from Rich on this, as he's done that same glass panel some years ago, and he might be able to offer advice on what he used, and how he did it...  I'll see if i can prompt him to reply here for you.
Rissy
(Forum Member 288)
(DOC Member 663)

May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
Grey, Flapped, Black
Chassis: #1073
Engine: #2839

Main Car(s):
2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue
2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
Reply
#8
If your adhesive is bonding to the stainless and the glass, but not the seal, then your adhesive is incompatible with the rubber the seal is made from.

Is this a new seal or the one you removed?
It may be contaminated with the oil from whatever the PO was using or contaminated with silicone.
Richard H. DOC 365 VIN 1274
http://www.deloreans.co.uk
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are not.
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