Forward planning, import jobs that will need attending

[88mph]

Okay, my Delorean has been paid for, shipping company contacted & if all goes to plan car could be here in circa 6 weeks.
I'm thinking about what needs doing, that I know about anyhow............
I'd like to get seats re-covered, Drivers seat looks tired & well used (30K miles) passenger seat is a lot better but seams have come apart on righthand shoulder.
Who do people recommend, really want the same standard & stock look.
Also my 'plastic' front/rear body panels (bumpers) will need repainting, that does look a straight-forward paint shop job, but would like to know the stock/original paint codes. Have people slightly altered this because of the newer/better paints now available?
Also obviously the head-rear lights need changing-altering. A You-tube vid link of this being done would be perfect.
Thanks in advance.

[MikeWard]

Seats - choices are either Lee Pattison (depending on what colour you need as I have heard he is very very low on grey), OR a set of DMCH covers from Ed:

Grey: http://www.delorean.eu/catalog/product_ ... _id=166003
Black: http://www.delorean.eu/catalog/product_ ... _id=166002

I believe they come as a set whether you purchase from Lee or Ed.


For the grey on the fascias, most use the following Alfa Romeo colour, which is a 94% match to the original: Alfa Romeo, Grigio Antares Stromboli Met. Code 651A
For the black parts of the fascia, any Satin black paint will be fine.

Headlights - give Dave Howarth a ring, he has UK spec lights in stock. Re the wiring, I will be changing over the lights on a project car over the coming weeks, will try to take a few pics as I go if it would be of any help.
For the rear, the MOT requires 1 rear fog light (what some do is to hook up the rear fog temporarily come MOT time and then remove it again), for the project car I am working on, I will be wiring in a set of fogs permanently, will document this as well if needed.

Cheers, Mike

[88mph]

Thankyou for the advice Mike.
Yeah, pics of the job would be great, to give me a understanding of what to expect.
For best results, painting the fascia's/bumpers is a strip off job I take it. Straight forward or a pain in the backside?

[MikeWard]

88mph Wrote:Straight forward or a pain in the backside?

I'll let you know in a few weeks as I'll be taking the fascias off for repainting.

[88mph]

That's great, love to learn from others mistakes!! :lol:
Have you got Dave Hosworth's number?
Also just to register a passing interest in those odd parts of the old grey carpet you are replacing.
I won't know what, if any, bits need changing until it turns up but please don't go slinging something, even if not perfect, as it may be better than mine.
Cheers.

[MikeWard]

88mph Wrote:That's great, love to learn from others mistakes!! :lol:
Have you got Dave Hosworth's number?
Also just to register a passing interest in those odd parts of the old grey carpet you are replacing.
I won't know what, if any, bits need changing until it turns up but please don't go slinging something, even if not perfect, as it may be better than mine.
Cheers.

Daves number is 01942 882331 - set aside a minimum of an hour

Re the carpets, I'll take pictures of them all at some point and post them up so you can get a feel for the condition of them.

[Chris Williams]

Quote:set aside a minimum of an hour

Just an hour, lol

[Darren C]

Hi 88mph (what's your christian name by the way?)
I’d prioritise on the things you need to get the car prepared for MOT as in the US they have none.
1. Buy a workshop manual and wiring diagram, you can get them on CD or through the clubs. Although not comprehensive they help greatly. As does the DMCH website parts store for exploded drawings of everything. They’ll show you where that hidden bolt is!
Headlight change over.
Be prepared to have to strip the buckets behind them and clean up/paint or replace. Also its beneficial to clean, un-seize and grease the alignment screws.
If your painting the facia’s its easier to access all this and align the lights with the facia off.
I had my paint sprectrograph matched to the original left un sun bleached or aged behind the rear bezel to get it spot on. Most other colours are close but no cigar.
It is very important to mix a plasticiser in with the colour and lacquer as the facias are very bendy and flexible, most 2 pack systems can do this, and without the plasticiser they’re sure to crack on fitting or at a point in the near future. I’m sure there’s threads on here to help. The facia’s have bolts that point inwards and you have to pry them wider than the car to remove and install.
Also any eyebrows can be addressed by bonding in a metal (stainless) rod or plate inside the facia to pull them back into shape before painting. The same goes for the rear, they can distort by the exhaust box especially if the heat shield is missing. There are also concealed bolts along the bottom of the facia that shear,rot or pull out. A good few days soaking in plus gas etc before attempting removal is recommended. Allow to maybe replace a few once its off again before paint.
DO NOT use a high or deep gloss finish, no facia's are without distortion and in high gloss they can look awful, bent and dented. A semi-gloss or Satin looks best and is close to the factory finish.

Fog Lights
Mike’s advice is good. There are also threads on here about converting a pair of brake lights to retain original look. A spare rocker switch to replace the outer blanks in the console is the preferred choice of switch. By law you need an indication lamp in the cars dash to show the fogs are on. There are also methods to do this like linking in the lambda light.
Suspension
Again because there are no MOT’s in USA you must allow for ball joints, track rod arms and at very worst a refurb steering rack or column UJ if there’s excessive play. You can also pretty much count on the bulkhead steering column bush being worn or even missing. Shocks may also need replacing due to leakage and no MOT checks.
Springs and ride height may not be to your liking due to the federal US bumper Height regs. You may want to drop the car down to “euro” spec. Not an immediate MOT show stopper but a cost to consider.
Engine
Luck of the draw here. Obviously if it runs and passes emission test then hurray. But a good service and filter changes, plugs, dizzy cap, rotor arm and injector clean is recommended, as is fixing any leaks and checking everything works, cold start valves, fuel accumulators etc. Check otterstat and fans cut in and out too. Plus the coolant pipes front to back. Check the expansion tank, if you have the white original one, then if it looks cracked/crazed get it replaced.
Also depending on which US state the car came from your gonna need anti freeze in the coolant system. A change is always a good idea as antifreeze does degrade after a few years. (and not needed in California!!) so check & change.
Check fuel pump, fuel pump boot, and fuel hoses including pick up pipe & tank baffle.
Marker lights
In US form they light with sidelights, these you’ll need to sort out with headlights. Dependant on your MOT tester there is no golden rule, some folk change the front markers to shine as indicators as the original front cant be seen side on by other road users, some keep the markers to come on with sidelights (in the headlights). Rears aren’t a problem as they are red and can stay as side lights.
Handbrake
Chances are it wont work or have poor performance. There’s plenty info on here to deal with that.
As said before, allow a few quid in your budget for brake pads and maybe a bearing at worst.
Tyres
Again USA have different rules so they may not be type approved or DOT coded. Just check condition, Sunny US states can cause rubber to perish and with tough speed limits I’d check the speed rating on them too. Obviously tread depth /wear is a must for MOT.
Electrical
Clean and check ALL earthing points, multi plugs and connections.
Brakes
Check system for leaks, CHANGE fluid & Flush, inspect and ideally change the flexi hoses if damaged cracked or budget allows. Check pads and discs inc handbrake pads.
Transmission
If manual, check master & slave cylinders, change fluid.
Again if budget allows, change transmission fluid.
Misc
Check speedo works (is MOT requirement) weak point is the angle drive.


Wish list (anything not for MOT)
Basically anything cosmetic
Seats, if its just a seam you might get a trimmer to re-stitch it rather than new covers. If its cracked and split then no brainer.
Bodywork Re-brush, dents, panel alignment etc all common issues and can be resolved, but pricy.
Gas struts, replace em all.
Door seals, replace inner & outer
Interior trim, replace repair as required
Wheel refurbishment, as required
Useful Mods after MOT; solid or spring insert in fuel pick up pipe (a must do). Braided fuel/brake hoses, re-inforced door brackets, re-inforced lower arms, rear trailing arm bolt replacement. Fix A/C, replace disintergrated radio speakers, REMOVE ALL SCOTCHLOCKS and repair wiring loom.

Spares
ALWAYS carry:
Fuel pump relay
Fuses
Spare Fuel pump
Otterstat or pre-made short link cable
Hand tools.
Plus lots of other stuff I cant remember just now that I’m sure someone else will chip in!

GOOD LUCK

[Rissy]

Darren C Wrote:Hi 88mph (what's your christian name by the way?)
I’d prioritise on the things you need to get the car prepared for MOT as in the US they have none.
1. Buy a workshop manual and wiring diagram, you can get them on CD or through the clubs. Although not comprehensive they help greatly. As does the DMCH website parts store for exploded drawings of everything. They’ll show you where that hidden bolt is!
Headlight change over.
Be prepared to have to strip the buckets behind them and clean up/paint or replace. Also its beneficial to clean, un-seize and grease the alignment screws.
If your painting the facia’s its easier to access all this and align the lights with the facia off.
I had my paint sprectrograph matched to the original left un sun bleached or aged behind the rear bezel to get it spot on. Most other colours are close but no cigar.
It is very important to mix a plasticiser in with the colour and lacquer as the facias are very bendy and flexible, most 2 pack systems can do this, and without the plasticiser they’re sure to crack on fitting or at a point in the near future. I’m sure there’s threads on here to help. The facia’s have bolts that point inwards and you have to pry them wider than the car to remove and install.
Also any eyebrows can be addressed by bonding in a metal (stainless) rod or plate inside the facia to pull them back into shape before painting. The same goes for the rear, they can distort by the exhaust box especially if the heat shield is missing. There are also concealed bolts along the bottom of the facia that shear,rot or pull out. A good few days soaking in plus gas etc before attempting removal is recommended. Allow to maybe replace a few once its off again before paint.
DO NOT use a high or deep gloss finish, no facia's are without distortion and in high gloss they can look awful, bent and dented. A semi-gloss or Satin looks best and is close to the factory finish.

Fog Lights
Mike’s advice is good. There are also threads on here about converting a pair of brake lights to retain original look. A spare rocker switch to replace the outer blanks in the console is the preferred choice of switch. By law you need an indication lamp in the cars dash to show the fogs are on. There are also methods to do this like linking in the lambda light.
Suspension
Again because there are no MOT’s in USA you must allow for ball joints, track rod arms and at very worst a refurb steering rack or column UJ if there’s excessive play. You can also pretty much count on the bulkhead steering column bush being worn or even missing. Shocks may also need replacing due to leakage and no MOT checks.
Springs and ride height may not be to your liking due to the federal US bumper Height regs. You may want to drop the car down to “euro” spec. Not an immediate MOT show stopper but a cost to consider.
Engine
Luck of the draw here. Obviously if it runs and passes emission test then hurray. But a good service and filter changes, plugs, dizzy cap, rotor arm and injector clean is recommended, as is fixing any leaks and checking everything works, cold start valves, fuel accumulators etc. Check otterstat and fans cut in and out too. Plus the coolant pipes front to back. Check the expansion tank, if you have the white original one, then if it looks cracked/crazed get it replaced.
Also depending on which US state the car came from your gonna need anti freeze in the coolant system. A change is always a good idea as antifreeze does degrade after a few years. (and not needed in California!!) so check & change.
Check fuel pump, fuel pump boot, and fuel hoses including pick up pipe & tank baffle.
Marker lights
In US form they light with sidelights, these you’ll need to sort out with headlights. Dependant on your MOT tester there is no golden rule, some folk change the front markers to shine as indicators as the original front cant be seen side on by other road users, some keep the markers to come on with sidelights (in the headlights). Rears aren’t a problem as they are red and can stay as side lights.
Handbrake
Chances are it wont work or have poor performance. There’s plenty info on here to deal with that.
As said before, allow a few quid in your budget for brake pads and maybe a bearing at worst.
Tyres
Again USA have different rules so they may not be type approved or DOT coded. Just check condition, Sunny US states can cause rubber to perish and with tough speed limits I’d check the speed rating on them too. Obviously tread depth /wear is a must for MOT.
Electrical
Clean and check ALL earthing points, multi plugs and connections.
Brakes
Check system for leaks, CHANGE fluid & Flush, inspect and ideally change the flexi hoses if damaged cracked or budget allows. Check pads and discs inc handbrake pads.
Transmission
If manual, check master & slave cylinders, change fluid.
Again if budget allows, change transmission fluid.
Misc
Check speedo works (is MOT requirement) weak point is the angle drive.


Wish list (anything not for MOT)
Basically anything cosmetic
Seats, if its just a seam you might get a trimmer to re-stitch it rather than new covers. If its cracked and split then no brainer.
Bodywork Re-brush, dents, panel alignment etc all common issues and can be resolved, but pricy.
Gas struts, replace em all.
Door seals, replace inner & outer
Interior trim, replace repair as required
Wheel refurbishment, as required
Useful Mods after MOT; solid or spring insert in fuel pick up pipe (a must do). Braided fuel/brake hoses, re-inforced door brackets, re-inforced lower arms, rear trailing arm bolt replacement. Fix A/C, replace disintergrated radio speakers, REMOVE ALL SCOTCHLOCKS and repair wiring loom.

Spares
ALWAYS carry:
Fuel pump relay
Fuses
Spare Fuel pump
Otterstat or pre-made short link cable
Hand tools.
Plus lots of other stuff I cant remember just now that I’m sure someone else will chip in!

GOOD LUCK

Phew! I'm out of breath just reading all that.

Pretty much all spot on.

The only thing I'd add is (so you don't get completely nervous a scared off straight away! Lol!)

...just remember, since this is not going to be your every day car (presumably) then consider it as more of a marathon than a race. Once you meet us all in the flesh and see each of our cars, you'll soon see that everyone is running their cars in varying states of completion, some more complete than others.

It's a hobby car. A past-time. Something to keep you busy (and it will!). Have fun as you go along. Do it all at your own pace and enjoy the experience. We're all here to help the best we can. You haven't bitten off more than you can chew, but you may have to chew for a long time as experience builds and funds allow it. Be prepared to be patient. (Unless you're like Mr DC here, and can afford to do it all at once and within the space of a few weeks. Lol!

:lol:

[Darren C]

Rissy Wrote:(Unless you're like Mr DC here, and can afford to do it all at once and within the space of a few weeks. Lol!

:lol:

Hey, steady on Rissy yer cheeky so & so... :evil:

I imported my car and it arrived in late September, it took me until February to get an MOT, that was working most weekends and evenings (with some time off of course) With a House to rebuild and several other cars to look after it was not a case of affording to do everything at once. I've had my car 8 years now and there's still stuff I want to do, and even re-do after 8 years use.

To be honest with you, I think the best restorations are done when money is tight. You spend longer doing stuff to a better standard when you are time rich and money poor. If you just throw loads-a-money at the car you just bolt on stuff and go, and that is not always a good combination for a nice enjoyable restoration. The pride is greater in the achievement when the journey is longer.

Don't be put off with my list, I'm just being realistic and hopefully you and future readers of the post will find it helpful not only in getting an imported car on the road, but maybe also a guide of what to look for when buying.

[Chris Williams]

Cant realy add any more to what Darren and Chris have wrote, really good list Darren has posted up there.
The only thing I would add is allow yourself a budget for things that may/will break when the car is used for the first time properly after a it may or may not have been laid up for a while. Some parts may fail over the first few months (remember 30+ yrs old) so just cover yourself for this.
Chris

[88mph]

Thankyou to everyone, especially Darren, for their views & tips.
That is a very scary list, but I am hoping (springs eternal :lol: ) that I've bought a very good Delorean. And hope that a lot of those points will have been addressed, it is why I wanted a working/running car rather than a complete project or barn find, but will obviously only know for sure once I get it home & feel up to having a good crawl around it.
Money transfer should be clearing tomorrow.
Thanks again, Karl

[Rissy]

Darren C Wrote:

Rissy Wrote:Hey, steady on Rissy yer cheeky so & so... :evil:

Hey Darren no offence intended, so really hope none was taken.

I was just stating fact. You've made us all aware you have more money than Cher, so I was just using you as a contrast example against the opposite end of the scale where people have a much tighter budget and have to pace themselves accordingly.

It was just a bit of fun. :wink:

[88mph]

Ohhhhh, found something else that is a 'must have' for the Delorean............

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380909724928?_...EBIDX%3AIT

I can see it now, garage opens, headlights on....... :lol: :lol: 8)

[Chris Williams]

Quote:Ohhhhh, found something else that is a 'must have' for the Delorean............

Dont forget the window winder handles and roof rack you can get on Ebay for your DeLorean :lol:
Chris