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Window stuck halfway down
#1
Connected up our passenger side window this afternoon, as the previous owner disconnected it at the switch. Lowered half an inch fine, put back up again no problem. Then felt brave and lowered it halfway.... and predictably it won't go back up again. In fact it won't go up or down. The motor isn't making any noise, instead there is a clicking in the door when I try a raise or lower. Fuses are all good, driver side is working fine. Top trim is now off the door, and it looks a lot of fun to get in there and actually access the motor. Any suggestions before I get some very shredded hands?
Med Venlig Hilsen
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#2
Yes,

tape all the sharp edges before you start work...
Chris Parnham in Derby  chrisparnham@live.co.uk 
RHD Auto MGJ 126Y (AXI 1699)
Outlander PHEV 4X4
MG ZS EV....Full Electric SUV.

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#3
Quote:Yes,

tape all the sharp edges before you start work...
LOL, Dave Howarth has new modern replacement motors in stock if yours is U/S they were a poor design in the first place. Just replaced the one in my drivers door, not as bad as I thought to be honest, but you should be able to get yours back up with any luck as a short term mesure.
Another good video from Martin to guide you: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FxYUxrnMM9U
Chris
Membership Secretary DOC UK
2018's DeLorean event: http://deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5715
VIN#15768 Ex VIN#4584 1972 Bond Bug.
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#4
We have a sheet of clear plastic taped across it for the night. Doesn't look too awful.

The two nuts securing the window to the regulator - is it worth removing those, and wedging the window closed as a temporary measure? I don't have time just now to strip the whole thing out to find the problem, and we need the car tomorrow afternoon.
Med Venlig Hilsen
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#5
Mine were non-working for months. Shouldn't cause too many problems this weather.

I'd make sure to prop them up pretty well. There is a lot of inertia then you slam the door shut.
Chris Parnham in Derby  chrisparnham@live.co.uk 
RHD Auto MGJ 126Y (AXI 1699)
Outlander PHEV 4X4
MG ZS EV....Full Electric SUV.

DOC Club Historian 
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#6
Thanks Chris. Did a few tests this morning - volts at the connector. Shorted across the connector in both directions, which made no difference. So, probably the motor I think. Disconnected the window from the drive with much fighting, the window is still on the rails but is a bit sticky. Slid it closed and secured it to the slide rails with two stout cable ties, and also to the door frame with another. Seems solid and secure, closed the door repeatedly to ensure it wasn't going to move. Disconnected the window switches on both sides, as the driver's side isn't great either. So, add those to the list...!
Med Venlig Hilsen
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#7
Does anyone know if the motors offered by Delorean Europe are the same as the A1 units offered in the States? Expensive but worth it...

http://www.delorean.eu/catalog/product_ ... s_id=67010
Med Venlig Hilsen
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#8
Yes they look the same, but you will find them cheaper from Dave Howarth. These are also the A1 ones assuming he still has some.
Chris
Membership Secretary DOC UK
2018's DeLorean event: http://deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5715
VIN#15768 Ex VIN#4584 1972 Bond Bug.
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#9
It might be worth having a go repairing the motor-if you carefully prise the motors retaining tangs away from the white plastic cover you can see the internals that work the drive cable, my passenger side one was rusted from water ingress but responded to stripping and cleaning the cable too. Not a difficult a job, just be careful bending the tangs back, you don't need to prise them back much, and it might save you a bit of your hard earned cash! 8)
#10556 'Ol Stainless' running surprisingly well,Audi A5 2.0T Quattro smug as usual,Wenault Slaguna stationary for the mo',the R.V.Enterprise clocking the U.K.miles up,new fleet addition-Jessica the Daewoo Matiz,silly but 55mpg....!
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#10
Thanks bj, can that be done with the regulator still in the door? Or does it need the whole unit removed?
Med Venlig Hilsen
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#11
The regulator/winder assembly comes out as one, just use some gaffer tape to hold the window up while you remove the assembly-it's a bit fiddly but it comes out, if you need to adjust the guide brackets ( if the window doesn't slide up/down easily) be very careful of the razor sharp edges within the door-a good 3/8 drive socket set is valuable here.
Use plenty of light grease and check the electrical connections are clean and tight, they some times come loose with the door slamming( I know, had to redo it once!) and use 12v to check the action before you put it back in the door-it should take an hour or two, 8)
#10556 'Ol Stainless' running surprisingly well,Audi A5 2.0T Quattro smug as usual,Wenault Slaguna stationary for the mo',the R.V.Enterprise clocking the U.K.miles up,new fleet addition-Jessica the Daewoo Matiz,silly but 55mpg....!
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#12
I've looked at the lower door card briefly - does all the locking and handle mechanism need to come apart to allow this to be removed? I need to buy a manual of some sort for the car!
Med Venlig Hilsen
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#13
Doive Wrote:I've looked at the lower door card briefly - does all the locking and handle mechanism need to come apart to allow this to be removed? I need to buy a manual of some sort for the car!


Nah!

Just start taking things apart. Prise here, prise there. Look for fixing points, feel around. Look at the exploded diagrams on the internet in eds shop or Texas shop. You'll get there. If at a push, take photos and ask here for input. Once you start with most things, you get so into it that it just all happens, and easier than you had foresaw too.

I took my doors apart for the first time (as everyone does eventually) and apart from one screw I had difficulty finding, which delayed my progress a little, everything else was ok. Just take your time and take notes if necessary to remember how to put it back together again.

There is no Haynes manual for these cars, but it's just nuts and bolts at the end of the day.
Rissy
Chris M. Morionem qui loquitur multus sine cogitatione.
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