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That's pretty much what mine was doing, and that was the head gaskets
You still need to go through the other things first though before expecting the worst...
Make sure your thermostat is opening properly and that the radiators at the front are getting hot.
Try and get a self bleed kit sorted out. Air bubbles in the coolant cause localised boiling in the engine block - which leads to excessive pressure in the coolant system - which causes the coolant to be vented through the header tank safety cap - which leads to sudden temperature increase...
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Got a stat & new header tank cap over the Hols. Removed stat housing, the cupboard was bare ( i.e. not got a stat in), so that in itself opens up a whole set of questions. Only reason you would remove it, is if you've had overheating issues.
Been out and tried it today & so far seems OK, so just gonna keep my eye on it for a while, do loads of quick close to home drivin' & see what develops.
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I've decided to get stuck into this cooling issue cos' its still not right.
I've now found the heater valve is rusted solid & its not even connected to the vac pipe to open it. I've took it off & its U/S, so where's the best place to get one. Also while I'm playin' around I want to replace the header tank for the stainless jobbie, where do you all get yours from?
This thing is so wierd, every time I take it out, it does something different, but always ends up getting hot.
One time you take it out, you would swear its head gaskets, then you go out again after messin' with it & it still overheats, but does not give headgasket symptoms, so I'm gonna work through the thing from the top & try to eliminate everything.
Make sure the cooling system is flushed out thoroughly especially the radiator.
It is important to bleed the cooling system as my earlier post and to fit the self bleed kit.
You can buy the heater valves from any DMC vendor.
NickT.
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Hi Nick, yeh I've already flushed all the system through & it seemed fine, the rad also looks relativaly new. I've also now fitted a self bleed, but it was still getting hot, so I'm gonna through it.
Without looking at it I am not sure what to suggest.
Check that the otterstat switch is working and is the right temp on/ off range.
You could also check that the engine isn't running too lean or the ignition timing isn't too far advanced.
NickT.
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Just ordered a few things today, heater valve & stainless header tank to try to sort this cooling issue. Also bought some struts for the louvre board & the trunk. Should all be here Friday so we'll see what occurs.
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hi
i would consider changing the pump, which really is the heart of the system.
i once had a renault 19, and the impeller shear off. everything looked normal, and on running water 'seemed' to pump out.
but overheated quickly.
so, if you leave the car idling, do the fans cut in and out?.
if you 'jump' the fans to run continuous, does the car still overheat ie is water getting to the rads?.
do they get hot?. the missing thermostat should have meant that the car struggled to warm up but did it?
does sound maybe it could be an airlock problem
Steve Saunders
Wolverhampton
ex owner vin 1621
doc 370
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Yeh, I'm hoping for the air lock as the reason, the heater valve was solid so that won't be helping. The fans run all the time, switch is by passed, has been since I had it.
The parts should be here Friday so I'll have a play then
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Me bits ave' come today from USA, only ordered em' Tuesday. Got the heater valve & stainless header tank. Also some struts, not sure if I'll be doin' too much this weekend though, got me feet up at the mo' just come back from the old gentlemans snip... ohh tender!!
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