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Radiator removal
#1
I'm cleaning up the front area and yes - I got off the front fascia, no problem, thanks for all suggestions earlier!!!

1. Now, I'm considering replacing the radiator - what is best, stock plastic or new brass radiator???

2. Does anyone know HOW to get the old radiator out?
It's a crowded area under the front, there are lots of parts.
I can see the fan cowl.

3. Does the fan cowl have to come out in order to get to the radiator?

Also, I thought I saw the radiator firsthand, but I think maybe what I'm looking at is part of the airconditioning system?

4. Is there a part of the AC system that are mounted in the same area (in front of?) the radiator?
Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN
# 02017
# 02136
# 03692
# 03980
# 05414
# 06201
# 06759
# 06833
# 06975
# 07067
# 16647
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#2
Stian

Climb under the car from the front and look up, you will see the Radiator with the fans bolted on behind it and at the very front the A/C condenser which is also bolted to the Rad.

To remove the Radiator you have to remove ALL the water out of the system, you will see pipes running from both sides of the Radiator, pull any of them and stand well back (be prepared for a hell of alot of water) once you have drained the system you can start to remove the Radiator.

From under the car you will be able to see the anti roll bar which runs from the left wheel to the right wheel, this needs to be removed along with the Radiator supports that are situated to the left and right of the underneath of the Radiator. With these remove the Radiator is just hanging by the water pipes. I would suggest removong the fans and the Radiator as one whole piece as the fans are two big to pull out without damagaing them.

If you have your A/C system in working order then you will have to leave the condenser where it is and prop it up with something, it simply bolts to the Radiator with 8 bolts or so and will come of pretty easy.

If you want I can email you detailed instructions on what you need to remove to get access to the Radiator, these where sent to me by DPNW when I fitted their new fan system and it details the removal of everything I have covered. It does not show removing the Radiator but once the fans and condenser are out of the way and there is no water then removing the radiator will only take a few minutes.
Alistair McCann
Northern Ireland
1981 Delorean #Vin Pilot 25
1989 Renault Alpine GTA Atmo.
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#3
Yes, the system has been drained. Bucketloads of coolant...
The front of the car is now up on pallets, so I have some room under there. I'll have a go tomorrow.
Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN
# 02017
# 02136
# 03692
# 03980
# 05414
# 06201
# 06759
# 06833
# 06975
# 07067
# 16647
Reply
#4
[quote="Pilot25dmc"]

From under the car you will be able to see the anti roll bar which runs from the left wheel to the right wheel, this needs to be removed along with the Radiator supports that are situated to the left and right of the underneath of the Radiator. quote]

Hi Alistair

Ive done a couple of radiators now, but managed to get the radiator and fan assembly out together withough taking the front roll bar out ... yes it is a tight squeeze ...but possible. Maybe on your pilot car there was something up front that isnt on standard production cars . I too put some newer flatter fans on, helps a lot on reassembly Smile

Take care taking your radiator cowl off... these can be a little flimsy ....

If you have the funds the new brass '3 core' one is the way to go, where were you thinking of purchasing it from ?
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#5
I only changed Flopsy's rad because it was all gunked up and knackered (Martin Gutkowski will confirm the state it was in) and Flopsy had continued to run too hot for my liking, despite new cylinder heads (plus all gaskets) being fitted, thermostat, otterstat, fitting bleed kit, new waterpump, etc. Now she runs much better with her reconditioned radiator - the transformation in the 'operating temperature' was amazing and it was so nice being able to drive the car without having to watch the temperature gauge like a hawk Smile

If the cooling system was operating ok, personally I wouldnt have changed it, it was a git of a job........as the saying goes, if it aint broke.......... Smile
Claire Wright  - Club Treasurer
Jul 1981 DeLorean - Flopsy #2292 
Aug 1989 Cavalier 1.6L - Guinney
Apr 2021 Mokka-e Launch Edition - Evie
#170
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#6
There has been a lot of debate regarding the brass radiators on the DML over the years, I have heard several people say the OEM radiators are just as good as the brass cored ones (and no not just DMCH cos they got a pile lol). Everone just compares a new brass core with their old gunked up OEM one. Also the brass core ones are harder to get in and out.

Personally I would consider an OEM one, Ed Uding has them on stock as I just recently brought one from him, or ask Dan @ DMCL for their recon rads.
Chris Spratt

Ex owner of Vin#16327 Grey 5 Speed was FLE 371Y
1998 Lotus Esprit GT3
1999 Lotus Elise
DOC 4
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#7
Good point Chris, it would be good to see some 'data' to back up both radiators. And like many, my old one did last 25 years Smile Also they do seem to be selling new OEM's ones off 'cheaper'' these days..or is it just me?.
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#8
Hi Mike

Out of intrest which of the flat fans did you go for ? SpecialT auto or DPNW ?

How are you finding them? Also what did you have in the fan fail socket before (ie fused link, fanzilla etc) and have you changed that since you installed the pancake fans?
Chris Spratt

Ex owner of Vin#16327 Grey 5 Speed was FLE 371Y
1998 Lotus Esprit GT3
1999 Lotus Elise
DOC 4
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#9
Hi Chris

I have the 'Special T Auto' ones on. Toby didnt have his out when i bought these 18 months ago so it was these or stock. They work very well in my own opinion , in that they keep the car at the correct temperature all the time , even in the last few heat wave weeks. I know there has been some discussion on the actual air flow these newer fans give in relation to the stock ones, but prior to purchasing these i was in contact with a couple of US owners, one from Texas and he was very pleased with them too. What do you think about Tobys fans apart from their lovely low profile and quietness in operation Smile

Do Tobys ones have a fan 'shroud' on each fan, i cant say that ive seen a pic of them fitted, do you have one?

I have a 'Baker' Fan fail fix, this switches ones fan on / off at a time, this also lights the fan fail light when they are running. Again im very happy with it especially for the cost.

Prior to that on my old fans i had a dodgy looking jumper wire that got red hot in operation. Im sure i could have gone for a similar thing with the new fans but i decided on the 'Baker ' unit.
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#10
Mike

I am running OEM radiator (with a new OEM to go in as my 25 yr old one is leaking slightly) and a Fanzilla. Again, like most of the car, it works fine when looked after, the relay compartment should have the fuses changed regularly, and ALL the crimps should be checked to ensure a good clean tight connection. Don’t forget over time the contact get tarnished and therefore should be cleaned.

I brought my fanzilla years ago and fanzilla have a good track record generally, though there is a guy currently on the DML having problems with his fanzilla. Shame they have been out of stock for a number of years, I have heard rumours Bob Zilla is going to start making them again. I did ask him in Chicago if he was going to but he kept changing the subject :wink:

I have been looking at the Baker fan fail with interest. There is also the Joe Cool unit that just appeared at the DCS car show this year and not forgetting SpecialTauto Fan fix. And Rob Grady currently does have a replacement for the FanZilla. I also believe DMCH has something in the pipe line… James any comment? Smile IMHO this is an area that should be addressed, the factory used the fused link as a short term solution to the Blue fan fail relay problem!

With your pancake fans you should have less of an issue anyway as they draw a lot less current...which means your relay compartment should be a lot cooler than mine :wink:

But I recommend everyone services their relay compartment regularly! Oh and check your TAB'S Smile
Chris Spratt

Ex owner of Vin#16327 Grey 5 Speed was FLE 371Y
1998 Lotus Esprit GT3
1999 Lotus Elise
DOC 4
Reply
#11
Good advice there Chris, infact im helping to replace yet another set of tabs this weekend. ....I love doing these .....not Smile

Joe Cool unit looks the nearest to your fanzilla unit to me but then its nearly 3 times the price of the 'Baker one'. If anyone is interested i could post some specs and pics on the one i have ? ( in the electical section )
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#12
Just as a sideline, I did purchase a Baker fan fix about four months ago upon recomendation.. Unfortunatly and I am assured mine is the first failure, the story goes like this....... Cry
1; purchased fan fail, got stung for £11.00 import tax by customs Grrr
installed it it did not work, nothing, nil, nadda. Unit was completly dead.
2; returned item back to the states, seller fixes problem (5 volt regulator) and returns it to me. Got stung for import tax again, another £11.00, double Grrr
3; fitted unit worked fine and as described for 30 mins. Then died again :twisted: returned unit to be told same part and another part had failed.
3; Still waiting for supposed 'new' one to arrive

I dont doubt these are good units. And there are severel in the UK in full time use, pehaps I am just unlucky? Just thought I would give you all the 'heads up'

Chris
Membership Secretary DOC UK
2021's DeLorean event: http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthr...p?tid=6056
VIN#15768 Ex VIN#4584
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#13
There may be a wiring issue with your car that causes the unit to go. Mind you a 5v regulator like a 7805series can have input voltage to 35volts at 1 amp!

I repaired an ecu for someone once. I bench tested it, tried it out on my own car but when installed on the other it blew again. I then checked the persons idle speed valve and it was short circuit, this caused the ecu's driving transistors to pop.

Bummer about the import duty again. :x

NickT.
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#14
Chris,

You should not of paid the second import tax as the unit is being replaced due to a fault.

As long as the sender writes on the package the it is a free replacement for a faulty unit then customs should not charge you.
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#15
hi

i am amazed as mine took much drilling swearing more drilling...

the bonnet brackets fell to bits, the screws has rusted at the front edge under the bonnet, the bolts to brackets under just turned the rivnut insert as well, the washer bottle cover needed all screws drilling out!, the grill and spoiler bolts broke off, and behind it all, a mouse had chewed my wiring!!!.

apart from that it all went hunky dorey!.

if only everything had been stainless!.

steve
vin 1621
still not roadworthy, now no seats and beer crates would be too uncomfortable. she starts though.
Steve Saunders
Wolverhampton
ex owner vin 1621
doc 370
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