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Battery lifetime
#1
Hi All,

If I don't run my car every three days or so, the volage seems to drop too low to start the engine. Is this usual or is something causing a slow drain of the battery?

On another note, my passenger door lights don;t always go off when I shut the door (I can see the light through the seals). I'm guessing the little door light switch is dieing?

Thanks,

Dyf
DOC 529
VIN 6383
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#2
Hi Dyf

Its probably the door lights not switching off that is causing your battery drain?

Unplug them and see if that cures the fault?
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#3
Not an uncommon fault. the cars seem to drain power from a couple of locations. Thats why 'most' have a battery isolator installed!
Chris
Membership Secretary DOC UK
2021's DeLorean event: http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthr...p?tid=6056
VIN#15768 Ex VIN#4584
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#4
Dave showed me a simple fix years ago. Take off the little rubber tip from the door light switches and put a tiny bit of tissue in the hole. Then replace the tip on the switch. The slight increase in length is often enough to shut the lights off as designed.
Also check the glovebox light.

Nick
DOC 650
Jaguar X-Type
Range Rover Sport SDV6 "Rufus" (Mrs H's motor)
DeLorean DMC 12 Vin#2862

My other hobby...
http://www.lccuk.org.uk/
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#5
Also a prime candidate for battery drain is the door lock module. Have you got one plugged in?
If so, try unplugging it and see if that has any effect. Usually down to old electrically leaky components, they can be rebuilt.
Richard H.
http://www.deloreans.co.uk
DOC Technical Advisor VIN 1274
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are not.
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#6
RichH Wrote:Also a prime candidate for battery drain is the door lock module. Have you got one plugged in?
If so, try unplugging it and see if that has any effect. Usually down to old electrically leaky components, they can be rebuilt.

Unless a lamp for some reason is left on, the highest standby current is the central locking module.
They can be rebuilt using different resistors and transistors to reduce the current from 13mA to 1.3mA.
I don't have a battery isolator on the car yet but I do like the look of the remote controlled isolator I have seen in a couple of classic car mags !

NickT
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#7
NickT Wrote:I don't have a battery isolator on the car yet but I do like the look of the remote controlled isolator I have seen in a couple of classic car mags !

NickT

What sort of price were these Nick?

And do they have some sort of interface to keep your clock/head unit settings correct?
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#8
TheOriginalMrP Wrote:
NickT Wrote:I don't have a battery isolator on the car yet but I do like the look of the remote controlled isolator I have seen in a couple of classic car mags !

NickT

What sort of price were these Nick?

And do they have some sort of interface to keep your clock/head unit settings correct?

£60 if I remember right
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#9
Hi Guys,

I put a key operated battery isolation switch in the top right of the battery compartment. This breaks the Pos lead. A small hole is cut in the plastic cover about 30mm diameter for the key to go in. Simply lift the carpet and turn key. Having a key is better security than those flappy bright red rally type switches. Key, switch and spare key £20!

You can get them from HT Motor supplies on 01243 787471. Ask for Nigel or Duncan, mention me and they'll do you a deal.

Switches are all metal construction and high amp rated. Got them on all my cars now.

As for radio codes etc, you can put a single wire feed to bypass the isolator (fused at 5amp) straight to the radio permanent live. That saves re programming.

And dont forget a pair of 8mm lugs from your local City electrical to crimp or solder onto your cut pos lead, so that you can fit them onto the switch. They'll either just give two away or charge 10p. Trust me it aint worth the paperwork for them.

Best Regards
D
VIN 4532

DOC-574
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#10
Darren - that's awesome advice. I've been thinking about how to manage a convenient and secure battery isolation device. I'll call your guys up on Monday!
VIN 7176
DOC 643
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