starting problem

[johnomac]

Been unable to work on the car for a while, but now that im finally back to the d and ive put the engine back together, im having problems starting it. Jumped it, and it would tick over but wouldnt actually start. After removing the rpm relay and jumping the terminals on it to run constantly, its been starting for a few seconds then cutting out. I know i dont have decent fuel pressure- will sorting this improve things? Id also like to just get rid of the lambda system- can/how should i do this (note i have a bae turbo fitted).

[Barson]

couple of things

reconnected the thermo time switch?
reconnected the h-vac hose at the right hand rear of the intake?
got fuel in the tank?
fuel getting to the injectors?
spark at the plugs?

no sure what work you've done on the car, but if you've taken off the intake the first two I've forgotten myself and resulted in much head scratching...

[johnomac]

Respectively:
New one in
whats the h- vac?
word (that means yes)
and i think the injectors and sparks are ok

[Guinney1971]

if the fuel pressure is poor, is the metering head buggered?

Also, might be worth popping an injector out (one at a time) and
with the ignition on (so that the fuel pump 'buzzes') press the metering
flap down to see what the fuel spray is like - this will also help you determine
if your injectors are ok.

NickT or RichH will probably be able to diagnose further

If your injectors are clogged, we can clean them for you in an ultrasonic
cleaner that we have here - if you want to post them to me, just pm me
for our address.

Regards,

[Tourettes Tony]

johnomac Wrote:Id also like to just get rid of the lambda system- can/how should i do this (note i have a bae turbo fitted).

you need the volvo bits ie metering head venturi cpr (although you dont need it) i got the lot recently by accident but you can run them on the lambda it just means a bit of plumbing onto the cpr the ignition timing needs sorting as well and you only need about 6-7 degrees advance, its not easy and far from ideal but it does make a difference from a stock delorean

TT tony oh and the tickover could be down to the idle computer or lambda one

[steve.s]

Hi

to get rid of the lambda system, can you not just remove the idle speed motor, block the holes and adjust the mixture using the screws?

i did this to get my car running and ran perfectly!.

[NickT]

steve.s Wrote:Hi

to get rid of the lambda system, can you not just remove the idle speed motor, block the holes and adjust the mixture using the screws?

i did this to get my car running and ran perfectly!.

No and Yes.

What you describe is removing the idle speed control valve.

You can replace the idle speed controller with an auxiliary air valve (aav)from a volvo.

An auxiliary air valve is a gate valve operated by a bi-metallic strip.
This lets extra (venturi metered) air past the throttle plate and acts like a fast idle on a choke.

Feed the wires for the aav to the idle speed plug and fit to +12v and earth pins (don't have the diagram in front of me)

Screw all 3 brass screws down.
Unscrew the 2 nearest the bumper by 3 full turns.
Unscrew the back one by 7 full turns to get a starting position.
Once the engine is at operating temperature, screw the back one in or out to set the idle speed to about 850rpm.

To remove the lambda control, just disconnect the oxygen sensor, this puts the bleed off valve (frequency valve) to fixed 50% duty cycle.
On a de-catted car (ie as in your turbo) do the above and set the fuel mixtture manually to at 1% CO (or 2-2.5%CO Turbo)

If the fuel computer doesn't buzz the bleed valve (frequency valve) either remove the computer and replace the chip inside (LM2902N Op Amp approx £0.30) or get the complete volvo K-Jetronic parts.

NickT

[NickT]

johnomac Wrote:Been unable to work on the car for a while, but now that im finally back to the d and ive put the engine back together, im having problems starting it. Jumped it, and it would tick over but wouldnt actually start. After removing the rpm relay and jumping the terminals on it to run constantly, its been starting for a few seconds then cutting out. I know i dont have decent fuel pressure- will sorting this improve things? Id also like to just get rid of the lambda system- can/how should i do this (note i have a bae turbo fitted).

If you know you don't have decent fuel pressure then sort this.
K(&KE)-Jetronic engines running is dependant on the fuel pressure.
Did you test for this using a fuel pressure tester?

Regards,

Nick.

[johnomac]

no, but i can see at the fuel pump one of the lines isnt making a good seal with the clip (ie it can slide it off pretty easily).
Going to check injectors tonight

[NickT]

johnomac Wrote:no, but i can see at the fuel pump one of the lines isnt making a good seal with the clip (ie it can slide it off pretty easily).
Going to check injectors tonight

I can do a full test of the injectors for spray pattern, break and rest pressure. Just pay for post and a small donation to club

NickT.

[NickT]

You could try some of this:





http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php?pr ... ne_Starter

NickT

[johnomac]

that should do it

[stunned_monkey]

NickT Wrote:If the fuel computer doesn't buzz the bleed valve (frequency valve) either remove the computer and replace the chip inside (LM2902N Op Amp approx £0.30) or get the complete volvo K-Jetronic parts.

The more common reasons for the frequency valve not buzzing are that the relay that powers the lambda system has been replaced with a standard one. it SHOULD be a Bosch 2x15A and that will be written on the top of the relay in the yellow base (later cars). I've done a few lambda relays that aren't bosch ones and are identifiable by the screw tab being on the side.

Also the ground point that screws into the side of the intake manifold just above #1 spark plug is a specific ground for the lambda system and the spade interconnect gets crusty.

The frequency valve will also not buzz if the system is working properly and the mixtuire is set too rich. It will however buzz from cold.

--------

It sounds to me like you may have a big vacuum leak, esp if it ran fine before you pulled the engine apart. Eg did you replace the intake manifold O-rings? It starts and runs for a few seconds on the shot of fuel from the cold start valve, but you're not metering enough fuel otherwise. You say you know you have a fuel pressure problem: Well, that will cause it to run lean, but I'm curious to know how you know you've got a fuel pressure problem? Feel free to give me a ring if you want to talk though it, there're just soooo many possibilities in a situation like this 07976 619759

[Tourettes Tony]

[quote="NickT"]You could try some of this:





http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php?pr ... ne_Starter

NickT[/quote


now i gotta get me summa that stuff :lol: TT