Got myself a Volvo 740!

[TheOriginalMrP]

I agree with the last comment. Do the best with what you've got, because pouring money into it dont make it any more desirable. Clean in, tidy it up, do your road trip, then get your money back.... it's unlikely you'll lose that way, and at least it will have served your purpose.....

Ben

[hana 5284]

Hay jonney thats a kick ass pair of rims on there SWEET.looks a little like one of our work vans on the inside..

all the best on cleaning her i think you will need it
ps have you named her?

cheers Tyson

[Jonny Jones]

Ta for the replies guys! I might end up keeping it to be honest, im a little bored of my 1ltr 12v Corsa! We'll have to see though! In regards to the roof lining, Id really like to get it sorted as the old, bare adhesive (the orange foam stuff) really isnt too healthy and if any of if falls off (which it keeps doing) is not nice to breathe in so I wanna get it sorted - same with the ICE, wanna get the radio and speakers sorted. Ive got a few months and I recon I can do it for very little money as I have skilled friends... and a Haynes manual on the way. Where spare parts are concerned, the car is gonna go into a garage for a mechanical check-over in the next few weeks. I'll most likely get the belts changed as well as oil etc. Might even wack a K&N on there to try and get a few extra horses from the 2.3ltr engine! - thats just the chav in me coming out haha! Ive not named her yet... crapheap is too literal at the moment... maybe... actually I've no idea haha, suggestions welcomed!! Thanks for the advice guys!

[A Van]

Well...once you start to use it regularly and you realise the fuel consumption, you'll soon want the Corsa back.

There wont be anything toxic in that dried adhesive, personally I would stick a bit of remnant carpet over it, if its distracting.

If your going down to Monaco..avoid putting any sort of K&N filter on the engine..although 167k is nothing for a Volvo, you dont want to push it unneccesarily, and also your really wasting your money.Its a big lumbering frame, and with the added heat in that part of the world at that time of the year..my focus would be on a through overhaul of the engine cooling system...that is something your going to need working 100%.

Cheers

[Jonny Jones]

A Van Wrote:Well...once you start to use it regularly and you realise the fuel consumption, you'll soon want the Corsa back.

There wont be anything toxic in that dried adhesive, personally I would stick a bit of remnant carpet over it, if its distracting.

If your going down to Monaco..avoid putting any sort of K&N filter on the engine..although 167k is nothing for a Volvo, you dont want to push it unneccesarily, and also your really wasting your money.Its a big lumbering frame, and with the added heat in that part of the world at that time of the year..my focus would be on a through overhaul of the engine cooling system...that is something your going to need working 100%.

Cheers

Yeahp! Couldn't agree more actually. Ive been out to have a proper look at the car and yes it really is a piece of crap. Plan now is to just staple gun some cheap material over the roof lining adhesive as its flaking off. Like you say leave the induction system, waste of time, and make sure I get the cooling system sorted as well as making sure the engine is sound, pretty much also as you said haha! Then im selling it when I get back lol!

[Tourettes Tony]

oil/filter, rad seal spare bit of hose and your done TT

[TheJoyofSix]

Take a Dizzy cap and Rotor Arm, or at least change the ones you have. It's a bugger of a job to change if you have big hands (an 8mm ratchet spanner is your friend) and the chances are they won't have been changed for ages. Rear Dizzy seals tend to leak over time too and they're pennies from a main dealer so it may be worth changing them too. just be careful undoing the multiplug from the bottom of the dizzy as these are fragile and you can easily rip the wires out. Whilst on the subject grab a spare dizzy if you can as the Hall Sensors in them have been known to fail.

Spare Fuel Pump Relay is a MUST as these are a known failure point. A spare Ignition Amplifier (the small box in the nearside front wing hiding conveniently behind the airbox) is a handy thing to have too. The power circuit for the ign and fuel sides goes Hall Sensor - Ign Amp - Coil/Fuel Pump Relay so non start probs due to no fuel can be due to the dizzy!

Check the fuel pumps too - you have a main pump under the car below the pass seat and a lift pump in the tank. If the lift pump fails the main pump works overtime and becomes noisy - it will then fail. If the car is sluggish with little fuel in it but pulls ok with a full tank then the lift pump is probably knackered. The earth for the lift pump often breaks off on the metal plate holding the lift pump/fuel gauge sender unit. Access to the unit is under a cover plate under the front section of the rear boot floor trim.

Yank the fuse for the Daytime Running Lights if this hasn't been done already. these tend to get hot and melt themselves into the fusebox causing all sorts of niggly electrical faults.

The O/D works on 4th only, but the relay is earthed by a switch on the gearbox that allows flow in 4th only. If you want O/D in all other gears just pull the wire off (single wire plug on the top of the gearbox on the drivers side) but DO NOT ENGAGE O/D IN REVERSE. That will damage the O/D unit beyond repair.

[Jonny Jones]

TheJoyofSix Wrote:Take a Dizzy cap and Rotor Arm, or at least change the ones you have. It's a bugger of a job to change if you have big hands (an 8mm ratchet spanner is your friend) and the chances are they won't have been changed for ages. Rear Dizzy seals tend to leak over time too and they're pennies from a main dealer so it may be worth changing them too. just be careful undoing the multiplug from the bottom of the dizzy as these are fragile and you can easily rip the wires out. Whilst on the subject grab a spare dizzy if you can as the Hall Sensors in them have been known to fail.

Spare Fuel Pump Relay is a MUST as these are a known failure point. A spare Ignition Amplifier (the small box in the nearside front wing hiding conveniently behind the airbox) is a handy thing to have too. The power circuit for the ign and fuel sides goes Hall Sensor - Ign Amp - Coil/Fuel Pump Relay so non start probs due to no fuel can be due to the dizzy!

Check the fuel pumps too - you have a main pump under the car below the pass seat and a lift pump in the tank. If the lift pump fails the main pump works overtime and becomes noisy - it will then fail. If the car is sluggish with little fuel in it but pulls ok with a full tank then the lift pump is probably knackered. The earth for the lift pump often breaks off on the metal plate holding the lift pump/fuel gauge sender unit. Access to the unit is under a cover plate under the front section of the rear boot floor trim.

Yank the fuse for the Daytime Running Lights if this hasn't been done already. these tend to get hot and melt themselves into the fusebox causing all sorts of niggly electrical faults.

The O/D works on 4th only, but the relay is earthed by a switch on the gearbox that allows flow in 4th only. If you want O/D in all other gears just pull the wire off (single wire plug on the top of the gearbox on the drivers side) but DO NOT ENGAGE O/D IN REVERSE. That will damage the O/D unit beyond repair.

Thanks for all of that!! Loads to get through then haha, just need some money to do it all now! :lol:

[TheJoyofSix]

It's not really that bad, those old buses can take several hundred thousand miles quite easily if they are looked after.

Just do a basic 'Stage 0' tune up (ie make sure everything is working as it should be), carry the basic essentials (spare plugs, coil, dizzy cap, rotor arm etc) and then the following;

Fuel Pump Relay
Ignition Amplifier
Dizzy

You should be able to get the above for less than £50 from a scrapyard.