VIN No. 1867

[Chris Williams]

http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthr...p?tid=6171

[Justwatching]

(15 Nov 2023, 21:48)Chris Williams Wrote: http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthr...p?tid=6171

Yeah, I know. I enquired about it back in February, remember? Still waiting on that postal address from you...

[Chris Williams]

Quote:Yeah, I know. I enquired about it back in February, remember? Still waiting on that postal address from you...

Errrrrrr no, but may have forgotten. Do you still need any done?

[Justwatching]

(21 Nov 2023, 21:44)Chris Williams Wrote:

Quote:Yeah, I know. I enquired about it back in February, remember? Still waiting on that postal address from you...

Errrrrrr no, but may have forgotten. Do you still need any done?

Not anymore, no.

[Justwatching]

Second attempt came out much better. Works perfect. Always reassuring to have a spare!

   

[Justwatching]

When I had the DeLorean transmission rebuilt last year, one of the many bodges done by the Automatic Transmission Company (Derbyshire) was cutting the transmission cooler lines in half and then joining them back up with what looks like a garden hose connector. 

   

It doesn't drip on the ground, but the line is clearly wet with ATF below the join. The other one is the same but in a less accessible location between the top part of the transmission casing and the rear Y section of chassis. You can get your fingers on it, but not much else. This is why I've put off fixing it, but I'm nervous it will let go one day, leave me stranded, and possibly destroy the transmission. 

The ends are steel tubes which run through the middle of a fastening nuts. The nut is supposed to turn independently of the tube, but as you might guess, they're frozen solid. I started with the most difficult connection, and after two weekends of applying penetrating fluid, heat, and cutting up various spanners to fit the working space, I got it off. The line ended up wrapping around itself several times before snapping.

   

In fairness to the Automatic Transmission Company, that was one of the most unreasonably stuck nuts I've ever encountered. It's clear to me now the lines were never coming out in one piece. Thing is, they had the transmission out after cutting the lines and could have replaced them easily. Instead, they bodged them back together, so I had to spend hours working with limited options in a confined space.  

Anyway, things were comparatively easy after the first one. The second line that goes into the transmission had just enough clearance to get an angle grinder in there, cut the line off, and use a socket on the nut. I decided to drop the coolant and remove the pipe that the other two ends were connected to. 

   

Bench vice + blowtorch + impact gun = easy removal. 

   

I've already got the replacement lines, but there are washers I wasn't ware of, so can't install just yet. I'm also going to start replacing rubber sections of the cooling system. No original hoses that come out are going back in.

   

[Chris P]

Are there washers? I can't remember them...but I could be wrong.

[Justwatching]

(29 Jan 2024, 09:19)Chris P Wrote: Are there washers?  I can't remember them...but I could be wrong.

Yeah, the washers seal the the base of the large nut that the lines screw into. 

   

Had everything not been seized to everything else, it would have been possible to remove the lines without unscrewing these from the transmission casing.

[Chris P]

Argh...I didn't have to remove these nuts ..so didn't see the washers.

[Justwatching]

New transmission cooler lines installed. Filled the transmission with ATF. No apparent leaks overnight, but I haven't started it up yet as there's more work to do on the engine while the coolant is drained (VOD!).

Also replaced four rubber sections of cooling hose with silicon. Never used silicon hoses before but first impressions are good; they're very pliable and easy to install. 

   

Also noticed the driver side CV boot has split. No surprise - I think it's original to the car and the passenger side failed last year. 

I've removed the CV joint from the axle, taken it apart and cleaned off the old grease with petrol. Unfortunately, there's slight play between the axle shaft splines and CV joint. I was hoping for wear in bearing part of the CV joint as that can be replaced easily.

It's not too bad, so I'll reassemble with fresh grease and a new boot for now.

   

[Chris Williams]

Looks good, lets hope this cures your AT woes!

[Justwatching]

Just before Christmas I noticed a very small coolant leak. Unfortunately, after searching with a torch and mirror, I traced the leak back into the Valley of Death. 

Progress was initially swift - I got the airbox, idle speed motor, throttle body and intake removed this morning. I disconnected as many fuel lines as needed to get the fuel metering unit out the way, but not completely off the car. 

   

First thoughts, not too bad. Plenty of debris, but not a swamp. 

   

Localised leaking near the water pump. Looks to be coming from the smaller of the two hoses. 

   

The two Y pipe bolts on the driver side came out intact, but both passenger side bolts snapped off after many attempts at working it back and forth. 

   

To make matters worse, I still can't get the Y pipe out. I've used penetrating fluid, a hammer, blowtorch, and crowbar to lever on it. It's seriously stuck! 

I've given up for the day.

[Chris P]

While you are in there I would strongly recommend having the water pump refurbished, ( Dave Howarth) new hoses, clips etc and fit a self bleeding kit.

[Rissy]

You'll have to drill out the bolts which go through the Y-pipe if they've snapped off. The Y-pipe is not threaded, just the block underneath. Use the empty holes as your indicator to hole depth, and measure the point where the threads start after the smooth Y-pipe shaft part. Don't drill any deeper than this. Once you've got rid of all the old bolt metal, you'll need to waggle and jar the Y-pipe loose. It's a bit of a wangle to get the Y-pipe out from the valley at the best of times with nothing holding it. Having snapped off bolts in 50% of your holes means its impossible.

[Justwatching]

(06 Feb 2024, 09:24)Chris P Wrote: While you are in there I would strongly recommend having the water pump refurbished, ( Dave Howarth) new hoses, clips etc and fit a self bleeding kit.

I'll be changing hoses and clamps, but intend to leave the water pump alone. There's nothing wrong it and it's low mileage. If I have to go back in there at some point in the future, so be it.

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(06 Feb 2024, 14:51)Rissy Wrote: You'll have to drill out the bolts which go through the Y-pipe if they've snapped off.  The Y-pipe is not threaded, just the block underneath.  Use the empty holes as your indicator to hole depth, and measure the point where the threads start after the smooth Y-pipe shaft part.  Don't drill any deeper than this.  Once you've got rid of all the old bolt metal, you'll need to waggle and jar the Y-pipe loose.  It's a bit of a wangle to get the Y-pipe out from the valley at the best of times with nothing holding it.  Having snapped off bolts in 50% of your holes means its impossible.

I'd rather not drill out the unthreaded section of the bolt if I can avoid it. In my mind, that stub is my ticket to retrieving the bolt out of the engine block without things getting ugly. 

I'm really surprised the crowbar didn't break it loose. It should just pop up, right? It's completely disconnected on the left side and I've cut the fat rubber hose and removed the clamp, so that's not holding it. 

I'll soak the offending stubs in more penetrating fluid and see if that changes the result come the weekend.