5222's bizzare no start

[theningiachicken]

So, rpm relay jumped and idle motor is working but still nothing   ,

[Stuart Rees]

You mention that you have pressure at the metering head but when you jumped the RPM relay socket do you hear the pump pumping? 

Have you been near the idle ECU lately? Years ago I had the same symptom of turning but not firing and it turned out to be a connection at or near the idle ECU (black box behind driver seat) It's so long ago I don't recall which wire but once I checked and reconnected in that area she fired right up...

Stu

[DMC1983]

One thing i will suggest is check your inertia switch too if you havent. My car wouldnt start up at a petrol station after filling up. I later found out the switch was faulty. I put in a new one and my car has been sound ever since. You can bypass the switch like this...
   

Sometimes these problems are simple. Worth a try.

[Rissy]

Not counting a really faulty inertia switch (obscure failure), if the inertia switch was at fault, not only wouldn’t the fuel pump run, the central locking wouldn’t let you lock the doors.

I know you have no central locking module in your car right now, but you’re sure the fuel pump is running…

Have you pulled the idle speed regulator and watched the valve through the pipe? It’s definitely moving? You can close it manually with a terminal screw driver whilst it’s off, and watch it open when power is applied. That will prove it’s regulating potential.

Have you tried a different car battery? Have you tried a jump starter on the car?

[theningiachicken]

Victory!!

Ryuko is alive once more, thank you to everyone for your ideas on where to look

after many hours it turns out my original bosch ignition coil had started to fail, giving very wacky readings all over the car.

thanks to Rich Hutchinson yet again for being a wizard and having me climb all over my garage to unplug and reconnect ecu's, HT leads and ballast connectors and checking what voltages I had and where they went funky. also, special thanks to Rissy for locating those RPM relays which I'm running for now, I will probably re-test my original one at a later date

OEM setup tests: 
1: 10.7v top ballast connector and 4.8V at lower - pos terminal on coil 4.6v - Battery 12.6V
2: 12.1V TOP Ballast connector, lower removed  - coil 12.2V
3: 10.6v Top connector, lower 4.6V - suppression coil removed 
4: Tested resistance across the coil - no reading
5: disconnected ignition ecu, 12.4v top connector, 12.2v lower connector and 12V at coil

fitted spare and voltages came into spec: 11.8V top connector, 6.5V lower connector - 6.4V at the coil and started up with ease.

[Rissy]

Nice one. I was thinking about ignition coil today actually. It’s seems a bit difficult to easily identify an appropriate modern replacement. Bosch don’t seem to make them any more that I can see.

[theningiachicken]

(26 Aug 2023, 22:46)Rissy Wrote: Nice one.  I was thinking about ignition coil today actually.  It’s seems a bit difficult to easily identify an appropriate modern replacement.  Bosch don’t seem to make them any more that I can see.

i found an intelemotor coil that was part matched to the bosch unit by PCS (auto supplier local to me) which i had bought last year as a "just in case" spare, now a coolant leak has cropped up. 

fix one thing and another appears 

[Rissy]

(27 Aug 2023, 15:16)theningiachicken Wrote: fix one thing and another appears 

Ain’t that the truth. My full beam indicator on my binnacle isn’t working right now. It’s been like that for two years. If I fix it, something more crucial might break in its place. So it’s staying broken for a bit longer.

Valeo do an equivalent coil which seems to correspond to the original Bosch number. Don’t know what it’s like, but I was tempted to buy one and have that as my back up spare. Valeo part VAL245025.

Not too expensive; typically less than £50 from eBay.

I have a Bosch modern replacement on my car from before they stopped making them. It replaced an ancient blue Bosch one which was on my car when I bought it. That one had exploded and had oozed black goo as well as splattered all inside the cover before I bought the car. Amazingly enough though, it still worked fine. Never had an issue with it, but changed it out anyway, I think about 2010 or so, but not before I put thousands of miles on it in that exploded condition! I was lucky looking back now. Just goes to show you though how the failure mode of things can differ greatly from one person to another.

Good luck locating and curing your water leak. You’ve got less than two weeks now, so get on it!