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I replaced the fuel pump boot and sender seal. Not spotted any further leaks.
Also replaced the oil pressure sensor as the original was starting to leak. Appears to be a successful repair.
I've removed the asbestos heat shield on the muffler to no apparent ill effect. Is is important?
The car is due to go for transmission rebuild at the end of the month.
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You'll want to replace the heatshield with another one. Otherwise the heat from the silencer can heat fatigue the seal at the crank shaft and even the seals at the water pump, leading to leaking on both accounts.
Rissy
(Forum Member 288)
(DOC Member 663)
May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
Grey, Flapped, Black
Chassis: #1073
Engine: #2839
Main Car(s):
2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue
2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
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Bummer.
I hate the stock exhaust and plan to have a new system fabricated. Would exhaust wrap do until then?
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The first two photos shows a new systemn and new heat shield going in.
The last one shows an origanal silencer....later replaced by a complete new system .
Most new systems include a silencer in the origanal position....so you will need a heat shield anyway.
Dave Howarth does some very nice one's...Ive had several of those over the years.
Chris Parnham
Ex RHD Auto's etc.etc
Main Car.. Kia E Niro 4+
Skoda Yetil 4X4.
Toyota Vitz 4X4 1999 (the smallest 4X4 by far!.
1970 Jago Jeep.
DOC Club Historian
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(08 Mar 2022, 22:48)Justwatching Wrote: Bummer.
I hate the stock exhaust and plan to have a new system fabricated. Would exhaust wrap do until then?
Wrapping the entire silencer would probably do the same as a heatshield, but would probably cost you more considering you're already talking about replacing the system anyway. You'll be wanting a heatshield for your new system anyway, as Chris P says.....or you wrap twice, once on the old system and then again on the new system. A heatshield doesn't need to be any more fancy than a cut and shaped piece of aluminium or stainless steel if you fancy the extra weight. Unless you've already got rid of the original, you could use that as a template to measure and mark off what you need using by transferring to a paper template and then ask a machine shop to create that for you in the chosen material again. Just wear a mask and be super cautious with the original asbestos one. Wear overalls, and wash them immediately after use, and only remove your mask once you've disrobed and stepped into the shower....just in case.
Rissy
(Forum Member 288)
(DOC Member 663)
May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
Grey, Flapped, Black
Chassis: #1073
Engine: #2839
Main Car(s):
2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue
2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
Posts: 133
Threads: 16
Joined: Apr 2021
Gave in and purchased a heat shield. Must say it was crudely finished for the price. Original had gone straight in the bin, so didn't have a template to home-brew something.
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Haven't actually shown the car for a long time, so here it is. It's going to The Automatic Gearbox Co. in Derbyshire on Monday to start work on the transmission rebuild.
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(26 Mar 2022, 20:29)Justwatching Wrote: Haven't actually shown the car for a long time, so here it is. It's going to The Automatic Gearbox Co. in Derbyshire on Monday to start work on the transmission rebuild.
ooh, you won't be too far from us on the Notts/Derby's border, you are welcome to pop by for a cuppa
and meet #6772 and #2292 if you have time.
Claire Wright - Club Treasurer
Jul 1981 DeLorean - Flopsy #2292
Aug 1989 Cavalier 1.6L - Guinney
Apr 2021 Mokka-e Launch Edition - Evie
#170
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(28 Mar 2022, 14:12)Guinney1971 Wrote: ooh, you won't be too far from us on the Notts/Derby's border, you are welcome to pop by for a cuppa
and meet #6772 and #2292 if you have time.
Thanks for the invite - I'm always up for meeting other owners! I didn't go with the car though. Thought I'd spare myself the headache of a possible breakdown situation en-route and had it trailered. Really looking forward to getting 1867 drivable.
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The transmission rebuild is FINALLY complete. Only took 9 months!
I'm happy to report that 1867 drove home (approximately 60 miles) under its own power without issue.
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Fantastic news, that's great to see.
Claire Wright - Club Treasurer
Jul 1981 DeLorean - Flopsy #2292
Aug 1989 Cavalier 1.6L - Guinney
Apr 2021 Mokka-e Launch Edition - Evie
#170
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Excellent, well done!! Hope it all continues to go well!
Richard Hanlon
Derbyshire
DOC 393
1981 DMC-12 VIN 06126
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As you may have gathered from my post about removing the crossover pipe, I'm in the process of removing the original exhaust system. This is being done in pursuit of a suspected exhaust leak (loud ticking noise). The passenger side manifold was the last section to come out and shows clear evidence of leakage, so I'm fairly confident of the diagnosis now.
June '81 No. 1867
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Ive have never known them NOT to fail...eventually... and on cars that have stood a long time, it can very tricky to get the nuts/ studs off without snapping them...then it can turn into a major job.
Well done getting it done with minimum drama.
Chris Parnham
Ex RHD Auto's etc.etc
Main Car.. Kia E Niro 4+
Skoda Yetil 4X4.
Toyota Vitz 4X4 1999 (the smallest 4X4 by far!.
1970 Jago Jeep.
DOC Club Historian
Posts: 133
Threads: 16
Joined: Apr 2021
I don't have the money for a new exhaust system at the moment, so the old one is going back on with new gaskets.
Got both manifolds and the crossover pipe back on today. I thought it would go back in easier than it came out - I was wrong.
Also replaced the starter motor as a new one came with the car when I bought it. I've had intermittent no-crank issues. Hopefully this helps. Also replaced the asbestos heat shield above it.
Figured if I'm going to penny-pinch, I may as well do it properly, so I hollowed out the catalyst rather than spend money on a by-pass pipe.
June '81 No. 1867
