(27 Oct 2020, 23:22)Chris P Wrote: Don't forget to use the black felt tip pen to put the chassis number on the back.
The number penned on the back of my chassis doesn't match the actual chassis number (or any other number associated with my car). No idea what that number was ever supposed to represent.
Lookin' good there Rich!
Rissy
(Forum Member 288)
(DOC Member 663)
May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
Grey, Flapped, Black
Chassis: #1073
Engine: #2839
Main Car(s):
2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue
2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
Alex took longer than normal to turn mine around 3 months or so I think but that was due to steel issues/shortages as Lockdown was in full swing and the fact he had to straighten the rear... Paint job isnt as good as yours but it was done on Fri afternoon what do you expect
I'm not surprised it was a bit delayed I suppose, the entire country ground to a halt!. The day I went to collect the chassis from Alex was just before lockdown. About March 19th I think. Had the radio on the whole way there and back, and something else had been cancelled with every news bulletin.
I was very pleased to get it home before lockdown Vol.I and spent some time on it before I got a bit depressed and had a lull for several weeks.
These last few days I've managed to get my derriere in gear again - ready for Lockdown Vol.II.
And here we go again...
The harsh reality is that despite all our hard work, nobody is ever going to see much of the chassis again!
Today's little project has been radiator fans.
For some inexplicable reason I quite like the fan ducting so have decided to keep it and get fans to fit inside. Same diameter as the original ones.
Compare the size of new and old motors!!
Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
I know there are various preferences. You can buy the generic 12" pull fans which will go directly on the rear of the rad: two of them side by side will cover a stock-sized rad very effectively. They are held in position by non return clips through the cooling channels of the rad.
However, as I mentioned, and throughout all this resto, I've been going for as close to stock as possible, so I wanted to keep the original cowling.
I found 10" diameter fans would fit with their basket grid cover things inside the original cowl. I had to hacksaw off the four mounting lugs from each new ducting thing, and saw a bit off the new ducting top and bottom to get it to fit the OEM cowling which features a slightly squashed circle top and bottom.
Anyway, the 10" fans are 80W each and I will be soldering on the original terminals rescued from the old motors. (obvs make sure they pull air through rather than push it back!)
However I didn't mind hacking them as they were ... Wait for it..... £8.59 each, including delivery!!
thats a neat job there Rich, if lockdown restrictions are released, it might be an idea to pop over and see you
and look at the frame and attachments so that we know what we are facing when we do the frame sep on Flopsy
soon.
By the way, I noticed today on the Exoplodaview poster car, my reference pic in the garage, that he had undone the handbrake cables from the clevis at the end of the lever and posted them out through the tub, so they stayed with the chassis.
i did it the other way: disconnecting the cables and the mech from the caliper, do the cables stayed with the body tub.
Fun today in re plumbing the various hard fuel lines, heater pipes etc, tracking down broken and expensive plastic clips, and generally faffing. The hard fuel lines responded well to a wire wool cleanup and spray hammerite.
I've also redone the Exhaust crossover pipe. The heat shield bolts had snapped off (and I have no idea why I even tried to undo them). They resisted drilling out so best approach was to cut the welded bosses off the pipe and weld some stainless flange nuts on in their place. Then some short bolts and the refurbed heat shields will be good to go back on.
The engine bay is certainly filling up now.
Pics to follow.
As I had been warned, it's the seemingly trivial bits that add up. Tenner here and there for hoses and clips etc.
£54 on eBay bits this last fortnight here and there, plus £115 to DeLorean Go and £20 to DeLorean.eu.
Boring stuff here now unfortunately. Cleaning up heater pipes etc. This went through the anodising so have rubbed them back and used etch primer and topcoat as suggested for aluminium. Result blends in to the chassis quite nicely. Should have done blue and red for cold and hot!! Below shows before and after.
Word to the wise: the upper clips have to be attached to the pipe before they are fitted to the chassis as there isn't the height above the clips to slot the pipe in once it has already been installed. The body mount lugs are in the way.
Also note the replacement pipe clips are VERY tight and look like they were designed for something a couple of mm smaller diameter.
When I was working on my airbox last winter, I made a point of putting flow direction arrows on the heater core pipes so I’d have a marking of appreciation for the future. Just used permanent marker. Not sure how that’ll fair over time, so a back-up photo is always a good idea.
Rissy
(Forum Member 288)
(DOC Member 663)
May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
Grey, Flapped, Black
Chassis: #1073
Engine: #2839
Main Car(s):
2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue
2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
(29 Nov 2020, 12:01)Rissy Wrote: When I was working on my airbox last winter, I made a point of putting flow direction arrows on the heater core pipes so I’d have a marking of appreciation for the future. Just used permanent marker. Not sure how that’ll fair over time, so a back-up photo is always a good idea.
Good idea!
Yes, you can never have too many photos, I took millions and have still identified a couple of area where bits aren't shown sufficiently!
I think I'll do a photo book when I've finished.
The lower heater pipe, as shown, goes from the valley Y pipe and plumbs into the heater matrix nearest the centre of the car.
The upper heater pipe goes from the LH cylinder bank to the heater matrix pipe nearest the OSF wheelarch.
Indeed, the dead giveaway, other than the exploded diagram, is the directional flow arrow embossed on the heater shut-off valve, and the fact its orientation is set by the small-bore nylon vacuum pipe going to the A/C panel mode switch. I remember talking about this with Benji last year when we both agreed it felt a bit weird plumping the water flow into the matrix so that it was attempting to push air out of the matrix through from the inlet at the TOP of the matrix (left pipe nozzle) to the outlet down at the BOTTOM of the matrix (right pipe nozzle), basically forcing air down the way through the matrix. I guess by thinking about it more, its got the best chance of pushing air through and out where the gauge of the pipework is narrowest, which will of course be the inside of the matrix. So probably sensible thinking about it like that.
So basically, with the flow the way it is, it's a return to PUMP affair rather than a return to the ENGINE one.
Rissy
(Forum Member 288)
(DOC Member 663)
May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
Grey, Flapped, Black
Chassis: #1073
Engine: #2839
Main Car(s):
2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue
2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
