Delorean won't start

[Chris P]

If you've got a spark and you've got fuel....assuming they are both strong enough.....are they happening at the right time?

Plug leads on OK?   Always make sure your battery is fully charged.....they never like starting if the battery is low.

Have you double checked your in and out fuel lines?

 Personally I'm not in favour of changing too many things at the same time...more difficult to track down any fault then.

[Nick H]

Your 4th photo shows the thermo time switch. Your missing the outer cover for that connector.
That’s bad news as it does matter which way round it’s connected.

From DMCH’s website I quote
“CAUTION: The connector on the TTS is keyed so that the wiring plug will only go on it one way. If the outer shell of the connector is damage, the plug can be inserted the wrong way. This will immediately destroy the TTS.”

Nick H

[er1c]

Bummer, I read that and feared it may be that switch. Thanks for that I will get one on order, I don't think they are cheap.... But even with the CSV power swap its not starting so this cannot be my main issue.

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(03 Sep 2019, 17:24)Chris P Wrote: If you've got a spark and you've got fuel....assuming they are both strong enough.....are they happening at the right time?

Plug leads on OK?   Always make sure your battery is fully charged.....they never like starting if the battery is low.

Have you double checked your in and out fuel lines?

 Personally I'm not in favour of changing too many things at the same time...more difficult to track down any fault then.

Thanks, Not sure if they are happening at the right time and still not sure why some injectors are dry and yet others are wet. Battery is  on charge, definitely have fuel and plug leads are new. I will let it charge overnight. I checked all connections to the fuel distribution unit and they are correct, I assume that's the fuel in and out...

Yes lots has changed in the last 10 days but NOTHING has changed since it started last....other than the tests.

I can take the inlet manifold off again and check the distributor, happy to try but keeping in mind I drove 15 miles or so and it felt ok up to 60mph I assume that's on right..

[er1c]

Distributor all checked as in the distributor is in the way it is intended to be in. A couple of HT leads were incorrect, plugs cleaned, I can now get it started with more frequency kind of...





Notice the odd sound at the end, kind of like a vacuum....

New TTS will be here tomorrow...

[Nick H]

I’m back home tomorrow, so when I get chance i’ll see if I can see where that other spade connector shown in the pic should live.

Nick H

[er1c]

Thanks Nick that would be appreciated, I cant see anywhere it would actually reach which worries me.
Chris W has been helping via messages so I will re-open her up and confirm sparking at the right time. Its the only way to be sure and I have read so many threads saying don't assume if it lines up its right.

I think the reality is irrelevant of the distributor cap the fact one (or thinking it must be 2) of the HT leads were also in the wrong order has clouded the lot.

Fascinating this elastictrickery…….everything else I have lifted the bonnet on has been a Diesel

[er1c]

All righty some serious effort, I have to say Pipe of Agony is now a 2 mins job



Above the Distributor cap the way it is in the video above. As you can see based on the numbering on the leads and the shot of the distributor below.



They match... In regards to is the cap in right, well I could never understand how folk got them 180 as this one has only one single notch and one single slot in the base ?



Or is the logic someone set the engine differently with a mis aligned cap (maybe some have 2 notches)? I want to try and make sure I have spark at the right time with this setup as clearly it feels like I don't...I have the car raised and I cant turn in gear, I thought it would be a  lot easier... whats the best method of manually rotating..to check #1 spark.

[Stuart Rees]

Could it be your ignition coil starting to fail and not giving the spark plugs enough oomphh...

Or maybe the lead between the dizzy and coil is breaking down?

I would also clean the connections at the white resistor as this stopped my car from starting earlier this year.

[er1c]

not sure if it helps but plugs 456 are very sooty and yet 123 are ok..That would be in line with distributor 180 out ?

Stuart, I guess it could be the coil... the leads and plugs are all new..

[Stuart Rees]

I replaced my distributor cap recently too. There was only one notch on mine... making it clear which way it fitted.

[Nick H]

   

I think this might be the purple wire your looking for a home for. On my car it and the orange wire connect to two wires coming up from below which I can’t quite see the colour of. At least this might
give you an idea.

Nick H

[er1c]

Thanks Nick,
I have this one, the black one is in the same place on the other side of the engine, it looks like a single black wire going into the loom.

My suspicions are with the Rotor arm, does this look ok, I cant help but thing plastic shouldn't be proud of the contact.




This was a new one, just wondering if I have fitted it incorrectly or re-fitted the old one by accident.

[Stuart Rees]

Ye... that rotor arm doesn't look good.

How do the terminals look in the cap?

Should look like this...

[er1c]

All fixed... I am so happy, I cleaned up the old rotor arm and put it back, re-assembled. Turned the key for the fuel pump, cranked boom purred like a kitten.

Option 1 : Duff rotor arm from the start
Option 2 : user error on fitting

I am sure the dizzy cap was always right and I am not sure if I had any fuel lines incorrect.

Keeping in mind I have never fitted one it may have been myself. I notice the original ones last pic from Stuart cannot be fitted wrong but the newer cheaper ones, have a lot less of a noddle so can be fitted wrong.

Of course it could have been many other things involved as I visited everything.

Thanks so much Chris W, Chris P, Nick, Stuart and others for keeping me going. I was losing the plot. It was so bizarre and none of it made any sense.

On the plus side.....

I can remove the intake manifold in approx. 30 mins
Pipe of Agony I have sorted
My clearly knackered TTS switch is replaced

On the bad side...….

My copper washer supply is dwindling.

[Stuart Rees]

Great news!