Over revving and other issues

[TristanC]

Good thought Nick. I will do that and report back once I’ve done it.
(Most likely over the course of the week now)

Cheers

Tris

[TristanC]

Not had chance to look properly.

But I had to use the DeLorean to pick my daughter up today as my Jag decided that the coolant bottle should split and lose her water.
(I am not having a great time with cars)

So anyway, had to use the DeLorean..... she was screaming at 2,000 again don’t believe that the spool is hung up as it returns home quite positively. And the little flicks I tried yesterday did not work this time.

Additionally, I’m getting rubber from the new AC belt thrown around now too! Jeez.
The belt is running true but does seem to have loosened since I installled the new one. Perhaps with the stretch of the new belt I just need to tighten it up?

But from cold she idles nice and low....... then if the AC is turned on she struggles to stay alive, and I had to increase the richness..... ( yes I know, fiddle fiddle again!) but I had to.

And as before...... warms a few minutes and idle goes up....
I realise I sound like a broken record guys, sorry about that....... maybe I need to pay Rich’s accommodation to come help me out??? Lol

[Chris Williams]

Quote:Additionally, I’m getting rubber from the new AC belt thrown around now too! Jeez.

This is wrong you need to find out why. It's a simple system are you sure that you have the correct belt/your new bearings are installed correctly/Your A/C compressor is not seizing up/Etc
Chris

[TristanC]

100% correct belt and bearings and all installed correctly.
The old bearings matched the new.
New ones are SKF - so good quality.

Perhaps the compressor is stiff?? Not sure how I’d resolve that?

---

When I first had the problem, the belt was smoking - but this time I can just see that there is more rubber about the place.
No where near as bad as the initial issue reported here.

From memory, there was some rubber bits about the engine bay before I reinstated the AC.
Perhaps the previous owner had similar belt issues for some reason.

[Nick H]

Tris, How was the aircon system recommissioned? New parts? What type of gas was put in etc?

Because as Chris mentioned, I’d be starting to suspect the compressor. It sounds like it’s putting to much load on the engine.

Nick H

[TristanC]

It was an r12 drop in gas and appropriate oil.
Nothing more than than that and new belts really.

Even with AC off the car runs high idle and before I had the regas, the belt was running its course on the pulleys.
In this colder weather I tend to turn it on to help reduce the idle! Lol

[Nick H]

Just a thought. Is the compressor clutch working?

Nick H

[TristanC]

Hi Nick, yes the compressor kicks in and out as normal.

[Chris P]

Tris,

I'd be tempted to remove the air-con belt completely whilst you get to the bottom of the problem/problems causing the  over revving issue.

 You seem to have too many "balls in the air" Tris, park this one on one-side and work methodically through ALL the possibilities again.....ONE AT A TIME. Testing after each and every action.   Check and double check is my advice. 

I'm convinced you have a couple of small issues working against each other.  Everything needs to go back to 'Factory Settings".

[Rissy]

(25 Sep 2018, 08:05)Chris P Wrote: Tris,

I'd be tempted to remove the air-con belt completely whilst you get to the bottom of the problem/problems causing the  over revving issue.

 You seem to have too many "balls in the air" Tris, park this one on one-side and work methodically through ALL the possibilities again.....ONE AT A TIME. Testing after each and every action.   Check and double check is my advice. 

I'm convinced you have a couple of small issues working against each other.  Everything needs to go back to 'Factory Settings".

Seconded. Remove the A/C from the equation altogether. You don't need it. Do without it for now. See what it's like without that first, then address idle without A/C to deal with too. Then once idle is OK; bring back A/C into the equation again.

I need a reminder:

Is CSV firing at all? If so, is it only firing for a couple of seconds?

I think you need to assure yourself that those butterflies are completely closed (means a strip down similar to what i did) at idle and micro-switch engaged. Can you hear the advance solenoid "pop" as you manipulate the throttle arm on and off of the micro-switch? (do this with only ignition on, but no engine to make it easier to hear) Is the distributor stuck on advance, or is it returning to rest without the solenoid pulling on it? (unplug the vacuum line to the distributor to prevent advance to see if that makes any difference to idle performance)

When "idling", if you push further on the spool towards rest position, does this affect idle? Is the spool adjustment nut wound back too far, constantly pulling on it?

There's DEFINITELY NO slack on the throttle spool link rod to the arm?

Is the throttle cable able to move freely back and fourth within the sheath if you disconnect it from the pedal and pull from the spool end and then pull it back from the pedal end? Is it freely moving or stiff in any way?

What helps is to get the car into the position of high idle (once warmed up you say). Then LEAVE it doing that, and go round everything one by one to see if any of the things checked has an affect to reduce the idle.

Is your new idle ECU definitely ok, or has that one been damaged too?

Systematically go through EVERYTHING from the start one by one to check everything through.

[TristanC]

Thank you all.

I will recheck everything and remove the AC belt while doing so.

Rissy:
CSV, I am unsure how long it fires for.- I’d have to check that

Will check the butterflies and the other items you mention around it.
Microswitch is engaging and there is no slack on the throttle arm from the spool
Not sure on the distributor advance (wasn’t aware of it - so will try to check as you say)

I can’t pish the spool any further closed.
But I will try disconnecting the arm to see if it will.

I’m pretty confident the new idle ecu is ok. The car will idle nicely when cold and will gradually increase on idle speed. The old one made it shoot to 2000 every time.
I have a new idle speed motor too, so that should also be fine.

One further thing to note and something I will be investigating are the “W” air intakes. I did remove these at the start of these issues, so perhaps a vac leak around those paper gaskets.

Thank you all. I’m trying my best here and appreciate all the input

Tris

[Nick H]

Tris,
      I’m with Chris on this one. Just remove the AC belt and try a test with out it. 
Strange that your troubles started with the belt shredding. So just work on that theory to start.

You replaced both idler bearings so that eliminates those. So as you belt is shredding again, the compressor is high on the list of suspects.

If the AC system was empty/open for a period of time this could be the cause of the compressor going bad. To reinstate the system you should have replaced the dryer as a matter of course. Think of it as a service item. So if it turns out the compressor is bad order a dryer as well.

Your going to fix it, I have faith   
ATB
Nick H

[TristanC]

Ha ha - cheers Nick, and thanks.

I am determined to sort it somehow. I have a few things to try here now, so at least I can plan my next move.
Time is tight now though, especially with Dad in hospital..... this was our project, so I’m determined to see it through

[priesh]

Hope you sort it and your dad recovers ok mate.

I just saw you two on Soup. Enjoying the show a lot almost caught up.

[TristanC]

Thank you

Yes, we had a little spot on the show and were given the ValetPro pack. Very nice too.

Cheers
Tris