Clutch master cylinder - resleeving worth it?

[priesh]

Hi all,

I posted on the other threas on rebuild kits about getting new seals for my girling master cylinder.

I was wondering if it worth getting the unit resleeved? There is a company called pastparts that do it, but wanted to know if anyone else has done it before?

I'm not sure what the state of the inside of the master cylinder will be, hence looking at this.

Cheers!

Priesh

[Rissy]

I have an old cylinder which is quite badly pitted. I was considering getting it stainless sleeved, but haven't done so yet (if I do). I found a company who does it, but haven't taken it further. If you get it done, let us know how you get on. As for old seal kits. I wouldn't bother. Maybe as a nostalgia piece, but not as a functional one, it's too critical an item to have it fail on you unexpectedly, not to mention the mess they make inside and out of the car when they fail.

[priesh]

Thanks for the response - yes I think getting it sleeved might be th best way forward as being 37yrs old it has to be pitted up inside.

I'll go for the new reseal kit and look into the cost of getting it resleeved.

[Rissy]

You might be okay. Take it apart first and inspect down the shaft. Then you'll know if it's necessary.

[Chris Williams]

Quote:There is a company called pastparts

Interestingly they keep emailing me trying to get me to advertise them. They do have a good reputation on other classic sites. I have as I told you a sleeved master cylinder and would strongly stay away from the DMCH 'pos' ones they sell. Everyone I have spoken to says they fail within two years and my own experience of one failed within 18 months. (all new master/slave/clutch line/and pipe to reservoir) so the complete system was new.
Me, I would not worry about it until your master fails. then look at getting it fixed. I know it's considered 'normal' to change as a pair but as your is the original I would leave it alone. But that's just me!
Chris

[priesh]

Hey Chris - yes I am going to leave it alone until it goes - I just want to get the kit and maybe the sleeving price so I'm ready when it does.

Yeah I read about pastparts on some other classic sites seem people have had good experiences.

[Rissy]

My slave cylinder failed me on the way to a classic car show in 2015 (IIRC). I changed that no problem, and at the time, the master cyclinder had been, and continued to be ok. No signs of failing. Then about 10 days after the slave was changed, bingo! The master started leaking. This seems to be quite a typical story from a lot of people. I'd still take Chris's advice (since I left it myself until there was a problem too) and leave it alone while it's ok. It's easier to keep an eye on that master from inside and outside the cabin of the car compared to trying to keep an eye on the slave from behind the engine. But be prepared to do "something" with the master, as it WILL go at some point.

[priesh]

Good advice - I'll keep an eye on it

Does anyone happen to know the casting number of the master cylinder? I need it to get a resleeve quote.

Cheers!

[Rissy]

Try this: "64068794"

If that's not it, then it's: "74660518BS2"

They also came out known as the same number as above except "BS4" at the end.

(I did a LOT of research on these master cylinders :-D )

[priesh]

You should write a book on the topic  

Cheers!

[priesh]

I got a quote back from Pastparts - the guy from there reckons that 74660518BS2 is the right number. He gave me a quote for a resleeve, or a full rebuild.

Full rebuild: £92.18+vat The unit is stripped, cleaned, machined, a stainless steel sleeve is fitted, honed, chamfered, a full new seal kit is fitted, and it’s then bench tested. The unit is covered under warranty of 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever comes first. Unit plating in gold/silver zinc or black powercoat also included.

Resleeve: £70+vat

Both exclude carriage (sending/return).

What do you reckon on the prices? I think if I did get it done I'd go for the full rebuild just to save the hassle of doing the reseal myself.

I did notice that one of the bolts holding my master cylinder looks newish, which means it might have been changed already in the past? Hard to know though.

Cheers!

[Rissy]

I'd say either price is pretty good tbh. For the peace of mind that you're going to end up with something which wont readily fail on you, and in theory should be more resistant to corrosion in the same manner as the original sleevless aluminium cylinder is (pitted corrosion from water content in the brake fluid etc). I'd say you would probably have a cylinder for life then because with no corrosion, you have no pitting, therefore nothing to deteriorate the rubber seal other than the natural hardening of the rubber, which would take years. It's still cheaper than buying a remanufactured DMC one, which are currently renowned for failing prematurely (inferior metal manufacture or bore smoothness compared to original Girling?). I'd say go for it.

[priesh]

Thanks for all your help Rissy - will do

[Chris Williams]

Quote:Full rebuild: £92.18+vat The unit is stripped, cleaned, machined, a stainless steel sleeve is fitted, honed, chamfered, a full new seal kit is fitted, and it’s then bench tested. The unit is covered under warranty of 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever comes first. Unit plating in gold/silver zinc or black powercoat also included.

I think that's really good myself. The same warranty as a new DMCH new one. and may last longer than the 13 months a new (Chinese) one lasts

[priesh]

Yeah - I'll keep an eye on my cylinder, and as soon as it starts weeping I think I'll be getting this done.

Cheers!