VIN 4566 Restoration

[Dan Willis]

Thanks chaps; this isn't the first engine I've built, but it is the worst I've seen in terms of overall condition. That said, it's just that oil/water mixing that makes it look so bad, and congealed coolant.

The good; well, the block looks okay. I can't speak for hairline cracks or anything in the aluminium that I cannot see.

I'm going to finish removing parts like the water pump and chains then get the block cleaned. I may invest in a parts cleaner and do everything else so I know where I stand. At that point, it's where I need to make a decision. Engine parts for this are beyond expensive; I can buy a whole LS1 V8 for the price of 6 pistons.. but we'll see; I'd rather it was "whole" and original.

More news next week.

[Dan Willis]

A small update today; and not many pictures (yet - I'll take some more).

This past couple of weekends; with the weather being nice, has meant long days in the garage. It's been thoroughly pleasant but does underline how much work really goes in to this sort of thing. Easily losing 4 hours to a simple(ish) job! 

Here's quick run down of the work I did:

Finished stripping the engine down to the crank - it'll now go to a local machine shop and be cleaned; the piston liners hopefully rebored and then I can start rebuilding. I believe the block to be "good" but I'll know for sure before I spend the necessary on service kits and the like. I very much doubt there is much I'll do here beyond rebuilding to a solid foundation - it'll be enough for a car I will rarely use!

Cleaned the underside of the tub - this is something I've been doing between jobs. I have no plans to paint the car or anything like that, I just want it clean. The top side - the bits you can see, they'll be done when the body/frame are re-united and I can work on each area in turn. I am keen not to take the whole car back to nuts/bolts - complete a job and move on! This is just cosmetic and to ensure everything goes back together cleanly and I don't end up with earthing problems or anything cosmetic I have to fudge.

Brakes/Suspension - When the frame was stripped I had to remove some parts complete; so I've had issues with castellated nuts where the split pins wouldn't come out; basically meaning the brake disc is still attached to the control arm. I've since finished separating those. Much of it, I'm not sure I trust - especially the front lower control arms. They may go in the bin (or more likely to someone that wants them for restoration purposes.
I've also begun to remove the brake master cylinder/servo - it's catching on the clutch but that has a rounded phillips head inside the car; that may need cutting off so I gave up and left that for another day.

Next up are the "spends". I'm going to get the frame done, the engine block cleaned and a rebuild beginning and hopefully a specialist go over the gearbox for me to see if it needs any work. I've also bought a small parts cleaner and will give rebuilding the brake calipers a go (first time but it's not like I'm in a hurry!). 
This will likely all take a long time - I don't like debt so won't be doing it unless I have the cash to do so; but I expect that it'll begin to go back together fairly quickly when it does happen.

DeLorean Engine Strip by Dan Willis, on Flickr
DeLorean Engine Strip by Dan Willis, on Flickr
DeLorean Engine Strip by Dan Willis, on Flickr
DeLorean Engine Strip by Dan Willis, on Flickr

[Rissy]

Noice!

Lookin' good!

Apart from the cylinder liners being a bit rusty, it gives me hope that the inside of my engine (which i've got no plans to start dismantling) is nice and clean inside. Yours looks nice and clean (all be it stained from oil).

It sure is a big job you're doing there. I've never really had any intention of going as far as you are right now. Mostly just a chassis strip down and refurb job + all the "little things" which go along with that. The engine, for me, would probably just get a bit of an external cleaning and perhaps change of seals while it's easy to access.

I'm wondering if it's necessary for me to go as far as you are, or whether that is the difference between a running car and a car which has been sat for many many years!?

[Dan Willis]

You ask some interesting questions.

Personally, other than knowing my engine turned, it had clearly had problems - no fuel pump (just bare wires) and a blown head gasket (and if it wasn't that, then the oil and water were mixing) gave me no confidence that the block isn't/wasn't toast.

So with that in mind, if you think yours is good, leave it be. BUT.. these engines are all old and tired (like me) so if you have to take it out of the car to do the frame, well, it might be worth doing more than you plan. HOWEVER (you like the capitals?), the frame work alone is £2500 - I'm looking at refurbishing the gearbox (it's out - it's unknown.. it'll be a pig to do later) and then engine work on top - this is not going to be cheap. I could easily throw £5000/£7000 at this lot and still have a car that looks like it rolled down a cliff side.

I don't want this car going back in anything other than tip top condition. It'll have to last (I'm not planning on major works again unless something goes bang). So, it's now or "never" (prepares to eat words).

[Guinney1971]

nice work Dan like you say, take your time with it, and it'll come out fine, and as the old saying goes (Rissy), if it aint broke, don't f**k about with it

[Rissy]

(10 Apr 2017, 18:29)Guinney1971 Wrote: and as the old saying goes (Rissy), if it aint broke, don't f**k about with it

You know, I was given this very advice a few years ago when there was apparently no reason to open up the top end and visit the VOD for a look-see.

I listened to the advice, and I had no plans to go in there.  Then my water pump failed, and forced my hand.  I'm glad it did!

...otherwise i'd have gone on, blissfully unaware that a veritable silt of acid was eating its way right through my engine block, bringing the imminent block rot death of the engine ever closer.

So thank Crunchie my water pump had other ideas.  IMO, that water pump failing is what saved my engine block from suffering the same as yours did about a year later on from me discovering mine.

[Dan Willis]

We're all in the same boat; that VoD is going to get a lot of engines one way or another!

[Dan Willis]

A quick update; the chassis has been acid dipped and is now being welded - you can see below that there are a couple of holes, but generally it's in a fine shape for 36+ years old. 

Next steps are, welding, cleaning and then e-coating. The costs will make you weep, but I'm not half-arsing this, nor expecting to be re-doing it in the next 30 years so it might as well cost me the fortune now.

After that, I have to rebuild the frame asap so I can mate it back to the body. That is where the real costs come in, as I have to replace:

Brakes
Suspension
Steering rack
Hoses (and some pipes)
Radiator/fans
Bushes

In reality I'm reusing very little beyond brackets and nuts/bolts. It's largely a case of "what do I trust?" and the answer is "none of it". At least, not long term and not after 10+ years sat doing nothing. 

When it comes to the engine and gearbox, that I'm still unsure of. I've stripped the engine and cleaned everything but the block (being too large for my parts cleaner). The pistons, rods, crank and liners all cleaned up nicely so a re-hone and new rings/shells should see it back to health. The heads I've not touched until the bottom end is done, so I don't have too much to do and I start to lose track of parts and such like!
The gearbox is ready to be split and so far it's completely sound, so I suspect a replacement of seals and gaskets will see it good to go for now. Whether they are mated to the car before the body is entirely down to money; the engine itself, whilst simple, is a pig in parts and they are costly. But, needs must.

Here's a few pics:

Chassis acid dipped by Dan Willis, on Flickr
Chassis acid dipped by Dan Willis, on Flickr
Chassis acid dipped by Dan Willis, on Flickr
Chassis acid dipped by Dan Willis, on Flickr
Chassis acid dipped by Dan Willis, on Flickr
Chassis acid dipped by Dan Willis, on Flickr

[Guinney1971]

I know my chassis on #2292 is in a bad way, its one of the 'while your in there' jobs when we do the engine swap.

Dan, for the brakes, we can recommend Bigg Red, they do an excellent job of refurbishing calipers in a variety of finishes.

Looking forward to further updates!

[Dan Willis]

(13 Jun 2017, 10:52)Guinney1971 Wrote: I know my chassis on #2292 is in a bad way, its one of the 'while your in there' jobs when we do the engine swap.

Dan, for the brakes, we can recommend Bigg Red, they do an excellent job of refurbishing calipers in a variety of finishes.

Looking forward to further updates!

That, I guess, depends on what you can do "while you're there"! If it's just crumple and cradle, and you're fine with it being strong, if not attractive. There are many ways to skin that cat. 

Budget will be the problem; in your case, with you two, you're quite capable of spannering yourselves so I suspect you'll do it all at home with a welder, steel and a cuppa. I've not the space, expertise or patience for it so I'm spending over £3k on this work. Worth it? That's in the eye of the beholder!

Thanks. I spoke to Bigg Red; I'm doing them myself. Calipers are stripped and cleaned and just need the kit and pistons. I'll paint them myself. Saves a few £££ which, given the costs on the frame, is welcome!

Updates may be thin until September/October, purely as I want to order a job lot of parts to rebuild with (to save in shipping mostly) but I'll get pics up of the brakes and cleaned parts over the summer.

[Chris Williams]

Can I ask why 'E coating' (whatever this is) rather than galvanising and the covering in the correct colour? I know there is issues around the frame warping but it's done successfully by some companies.
Chris

[Chris P]

I agree with Chris W, if I'd got my car stripped down to that state, I would have it galvanised and then grey painted...last for ever then. (Looks very good really Dan)

[Dan Willis]

Galvanising works, sure. It also plugs holes and adds weight. It is now, although more expensive, seen that e-coating does a better job (there's plenty of guff either way, it's a preference). The steel on the D's chassis is fine for galvanising, and I intend to paint the frame grey anyway (it'll be black once coated).

There's no right or wrong here, but e-coating is less risky and I don't have the money to buy a new frame should it go wrong

[Chris Williams]

Quote:There's no right or wrong here, but e-coating is less risky and I don't have the money to buy a new frame should it go wrong

Fair enough! I was just curious !  Is E Coating similar to the original dipped coating then?
Chris

[Dan Willis]

(14 Jun 2017, 21:07)Chris Williams Wrote:

Quote:There's no right or wrong here, but e-coating is less risky and I don't have the money to buy a new frame should it go wrong

Fair enough! I was just curious !  Is E Coating similar to the original dipped coating then?
Chris

Yes; the frame is acid dipped, then "cleaned" which basically removes any particulates and preps it for the process to bond the coating to the frame, then it's dipped and I believe a current is run through it. After that it'll never rust - and the coating can't flake off.

There's a whole process here: http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk/techn...ocess.html and it's been covered in a few classic magazines. The downside? Cost. It's horribly expensive. But, I didn't start this to save money (obviously), and it WILL be one hell of a car when done. Probably too nice to actually drive