Posts: 11
Threads: 4
Joined: Jan 2015
Hi guys,
My passenger door has suddenly stopped opening from the inside and i have to go around the car and let out my passenger 'like a gentleman'. When i open the passenger door from the outside i have to turn the key to the left and and lift the handle at the same time for the door to open. Any ideas how i can sort this out?
Thanks in advance guys.
VIN 4400
Posts: 1,748
Threads: 119
Joined: Aug 2009
There's a diagonal bar inside which reaches from the key barrel and ventures down to the rest of the door linkage gubbins. It's in two halves, with a tensioning screw thingy half way up. That probably needs adjustment. Tighten it slightly so that the bar pulls a little more. If it's not that one, it'll be one of the others close to it which is slack.
Rissy
(Forum Member 288)
(DOC Member 663)
May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
Grey, Flapped, Black
Chassis: #1073
Engine: #2839
Main Car(s):
2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue
2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
Posts: 11
Threads: 4
Joined: Jan 2015
Rissy Wrote:There's a diagonal bar inside which reaches from the key barrel and ventures down to the rest of the door linkage gubbins. It's in two halves, with a tensioning screw thingy half way up. That probably needs adjustment. Tighten it slightly so that the bar pulls a little more. If it's not that one, it'll be one of the others close to it which is slack.
Thanks for that mate. is the diagonal bar accessible from just removing the upper panel, or do they both need to come off?
VIN 4400
Posts: 1,748
Threads: 119
Joined: Aug 2009
It depends actually where you find your issue, but I would expect it to just be the upper half to remove to gain enough access to find and fix your problem. Be careful on the stainless. It's like sticking your hand into one of the viscous traps from one of the "Saw" movies.
Rissy
(Forum Member 288)
(DOC Member 663)
May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
Grey, Flapped, Black
Chassis: #1073
Engine: #2839
Main Car(s):
2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue
2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
Posts: 11
Threads: 4
Joined: Jan 2015
Rissy Wrote:It depends actually where you find your issue, but I would expect it to just be the upper half to remove to gain enough access to find and fix your problem. Be careful on the stainless. It's like sticking your hand into one of the viscous traps from one of the "Saw" movies.
Yeesh, chain mail gloves then. Thanks mate, i'll give that a go this weekend.
VIN 4400
Posts: 436
Threads: 43
Joined: Jul 2006
A lock and latch adjustment was done on VIN 4400 back in early 2004 when I used to own it and that got everything working sweetly. You should hopefully have something in the car's history file documenting this. The door lock solenoids were also rewound at the same time.
It sounds like a bit of adjustment is required again but it shouldn't be too much of a job all being well.
Cheers,
Phil
1982 DeLorean VIN 12173 (a.k.a VIN 601)
1989 Alpine GTA V6 Turbo
Posts: 11
Threads: 4
Joined: Jan 2015
Phil Peters Wrote:A lock and latch adjustment was done on VIN 4400 back in early 2004 when I used to own it and that got everything working sweetly. You should hopefully have something in the car's history file documenting this. The door lock solenoids were also rewound at the same time.
It sounds like a bit of adjustment is required again but it shouldn't be too much of a job all being well.
Cheers,
Phil
Thanks Phil. Gonna take a look next weekend as its very strange and annoying. My chivalry can only last so long, haha. Will check the previous files.
VIN 4400
