Deposit paid on Vin..... 005127.

[MikeWard]

88mph Wrote:Also re-trimmed binnacle & side-panel bolster turned up aswell.








Looks dead smart, so nice to have it all back together again. MOT retest tomorrow.

Looks like another smart bit of work by Lee Pattison

[88mph]

IT PASSED!!



Some bad news though, speedo was working when I last drove car with clocks connected.
At MOT on Friday, they fitted tie-rod ends and steering boots.
Today speedo isn't working, I disconnected at 'service counter' under dash. Cable not turning. Could they of knocked/broken something? It looks complete.

[88mph]

Chris Williams Wrote:Whats wrong with the headlights? Simply need adjusting?

All sorted, new bulbs or holder had given of smoke & fogged lense.

Quote:Fuel gauge, may be one of SpecialT's replacemnts they work like that. Accurate on flat gorund not moving!

Seems likely, sender does look newish.

Quote:Pictures of OE shocks hear: http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/viewto ... =20&t=5730 Do they look like this? Or replacements. Sometimes the springs can make a noise if there not seated.
Chris

They are lowered springs, adjustable on the back ones and have DMC stickers on them.
Front, Top nut looks to be crushing rubber bush too much. Shouldn't there be a tube spacer over the threaded bar?

[MikeWard]

Nice one Karl!

Re the speedo, I had that issue in the past after having the binnacle off on my car, it turned out that the cable wasn't seated properly in the back of the speedometer in the binnacle.

As a quick and dirty (not really recommended) test, you can unhook the upper speedo cable from the counter box, and connect it to a drill, run the drill in reverse and see if the speedo moves.
If it works then your issue is lower down - i.e. lower speedo cable, angle drive or the plastic dust cap.

[88mph]

DMCTodayMichael Wrote:

Quote:Third picture looks complete but the spring looks like it has come loose. There is a "U" bolt on the engine cover that it latches to. The adjustment is made with small nuts on each side that can raise or lower the bolt to catch the upper louver assembley. Some bending may be reqiured to make it line up. Be sure to remove the bolt before trying to bend it or the cover will bend with it.

All sorted, thankyou.

Quote:For your idle problem you have a lot to set and check first. You want to visually inspect your vacuum hoses to see if there is anything obvious. Make sure your throttle plates are closing properly at idle/no pedal. The idle microswitch adjustment needs to be checked and or set as well. Use a multimeter to check the swithc with to make sure it's still good. You will also want to check the air mixture but do not adjust it right now. You set this as a last because you may be masking the real problem by adjusting it. Nine times out of 10 however, the metal plug is missing and someone had monkeyed around with it already.

You can also remove the idle computer and visually inspect it. Look for leaking capacitors, burn spots, loose components. That's not going to tell you for certain it's broke, but if you see anything I mentioned, then replace it. The only way to really test is to replace with a known working computer. We have a guy over here that builds these things (along with many other DeLorean components) for much cheaper than OE, and it's all solid state. I have several of his components in my car and I am going to get a fuel computer just to have on standby if I ever need another one.

dm-eng.weebly.com

Okay, there is something amiss here. I've driven the car a couple of times now & getting used to how it runs.
In the cold it starts lovely, 800rpm but as it warms up the revs keep rising. Fully warmed engine and the revs on tick-over are sat at 1600rpm. In old talk, its like the 'choke' is sticking on.

The throttle micro switch looks to be set right & is making a nice clicking sound. I will investigate its working later.

[Chris Williams]

Quote:Shouldn't there be a tube spacer over the threaded bar?

No.

[88mph]

A couple hours checking this and that and disconnecting the other.
Turns out the high revving at idle, was a bad connector on the back of the throttle micro-switch & poor adjustment (loose) of the throttle linkage set-up.
Seems to tick over at 900rpm now. (No test drive yet). Is that about right or still alittle high?
Should make round town driving feel/sound so much better.

The three brass screws on the inlet manifold (half under air-filter), what are they (some sort of mixture/idle set screw?) & how do they work?

[88mph]

Oh and on MOT exhaust test, CO2 was recorded as 2.8% (?) on print-out. Is that high or again about right?

[DMCTodayMichael]

Throttle base setting via the idle computer is +/-750rpm but a lot of people will bump it up to around 900 via the plate screw because of the poor charge rate at idle. Depending on what alternator and pulley you have, if you sit in gear idling with the headlights and AC on, you will discharge the battery.

900 is still a bit high if all the linkages are correctly set. It's not enough to worry too much about, but I would want to get everything perfect first, then if your charge rate is poor, bump it up using the idle screw(which cracks the plates a little) then readjust your microswitch so that it's tripped at idle...actually you want it to trip a little before you get to full stop on the linkage so when the engine revs, the system has time to catch itself and will not stall your engine. All the adjustments are in your tech manual. Once your linkages/rest plates are correct then check your mixture adjustment with a dwell meter and make sure you are within specs.

C.I.S. is pretty bullet proof once it's right.

PS: don't forget to test that microswitch with a multimeter. Sometimes they go bad and become a giant resistor.

[88mph]

Went and had my front wheels rebalanced because of steering wheel shake.
Garage said tyre was slightly mis-shaped, really need new.
I like the old Cooper white writing look, what is the nearest modern equivalent?

[88mph]

Chris Williams Wrote:

Quote:Shouldn't there be a tube spacer over the threaded bar?

No.

Are you sure about that Chris?
This can't be right! :?

[Chris Williams]

Quote:Are you sure about that Chris?
This can't be right! :?

Hears a couple of topics with lots of pictures that may help:
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=1818
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=1868
Chris

[88mph]

Nice pics. And you're definite there aren't spacer tubes (to stop bush crushing) under those rubber top bush mounts?

[Chris Williams]

Hear you go, picture of the OE ones I have just removed, showing how it's put together. One rubber bush below the mount and one above:
[ATTACHMENT NOT FOUND]

[88mph]

Cheers Chris.
I do notice that the OE ones have cupped top washers to hold/contain the bush.
My DMC replacements don't. Hmmmmmm :?

Any thoughts on replacement front tyres?