Deposit paid on Vin..... 005127.

[Darren C]

Looking good Mike,

I can't see in your photos, but, did he leave a 2" flap/excess of vinyl on the rear quarter trims so that you can wrap and glue it to the door aperture before the inner door seal goes on?

[Chris Williams]

Quote:Any tips on changing that awkward looking top door seal?

Very,very carefully! Though never having done it myself I have read of people drilling through the outer skin of the door trying to remove it, and (from what I have read) even putting the smallest 'nick/mark' on the torsion bar can cause them to fracture As I say have not done it myself though.
Chris

[88mph]

Bloody cross-head self tappers all over the car, where its really fiddly, awkward & high risk of damage......."We'll put pop-rivets!" Brilliant!! :lol:

[MikeWard]

Darren C Wrote:Looking good Mike,

I can't see in your photos, but, did he leave a 2" flap/excess of vinyl on the rear quarter trims so that you can wrap and glue it to the door aperture before the inner door seal goes on?

The panels still have their original flaps intact. I was very careful when taking them off so luckily Lee didn't need to stitch in replacement vinyl along the edges. For those trim panels, I believe he re-trimmed and re-fixed the bolsters to the panel, and dyed them.

Do you remember this stubborn little thing?

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Chris Williams Wrote:

Quote:Any tips on changing that awkward looking top door seal?

Very,very carefully! Though never having done it myself I have read of people drilling through the outer skin of the door trying to remove it, and (from what I have read) even putting the smallest 'nick/mark' on the torsion bar can cause them to fracture As I say have not done it myself though.
Chris

I have heard of some folks wrapping the torsion bar with rubber - e.g. bike inner tube or similar, to protect it while drilling out the rivets. Re the actual drilling of the rivets, it must be done with the utmost care to avoid damage to the door.

[Darren C]

Oh yes Mike, how could I forget :wink:

I tell you what though, your trimmer has certainly done a damn good job....even I'm mildly impressed

As for the rivets Karl, if you have a dremel, you be as well to just cut/grind the heads off the rivets rather than getting a cumbersome drill in there and risking damage.
Not sure where all the self tappers are that your referring too?

For info my car has ORIGINAL Wurth style self tappers (the ones that are black and look like the have an almost moulded washer on them) on one side and pop rivets on the other holding the black door aperture trims on.
Obviously the guy on one side of the production line had a box of rivets and the guy on the other had self tappers, "to be sure it'll be alright" :lol:

[Dangermouse]

MikeWard Wrote:I have heard of some folks wrapping the torsion bar with rubber - e.g. bike inner tube or similar, to protect it while drilling out the rivets. Re the actual drilling of the rivets, it must be done with the utmost care to avoid damage to the door.

I have a length of black rubber fuel line cut lengthwise and slipped over the bar as one of my hinges is quite close to the bar and I want to check for any movement before it might nick the bar.

[88mph]

Another couple hours distraction....... 8)

http://youtu.be/U5Wfa9RrSpM

[Chris Williams]

Just need the flux capacitor now :wink:
Chris

[88mph]

Chris Williams Wrote:Now I have had chance to look at your video (as Darren wrote) really is a great looking car you have. The pipe that's missing from the air filter used to have a hot/cold/ air intake thingy there. All you need to do is find a suitable piece of flexi air hose to join the two together. You will probably find the battery is U/S (wont like the cold UK) that may be the first thing to change.
Chris

Okay, had abit of a look at this. Filter end is 90mm diameter, wing end is 80mm.
I'd like to return the warm air/cold start pick-up from exhaust.
Anyone got good pics of original piping? Where to get one?

[Chris Williams]

Quote:I'd like to return the warm air/cold start pick-up from exhaust.
Anyone got good pics of original piping? Where to get one?

May be worth putting an ad in the wanted bit of the forum, loads of people get rid of them so someone may have saved an old one. However most f the divereter valves dont work anyway....
Chris

[MikeWard]

As Chris said, the old valves usually never work. Ditch the lot and put a cold air feed on straight from the pontoon to the air box, job done.

[88mph]

Okay, drilled holders for new side-lights. (Notice lack of any eye-brows, looks so much smarter).........




Wiring in Mike's side-lights..........................




I decided to take feed and earth from the wiring to front indicators near the connectors. Green is the flasher, Red is now the side-light feed & black is the now shared earth..................



All working, happy days..................................

[88mph]

While the headlights were out & sunny was shining. Thought I'd make a start on sprucing up the front fascia.

Primer.......

[MikeWard]

Nice work Karl.

What colour are you using on the fascias?

Short of the official paint codes the closest suggested match is:
Alfa Romeo
Grigio Antares Stromboli Met.
Code 651A

[88mph]

Another nice, warm, windless, winters day. Time for colour & clear coats.........

Gave yesterdays primer alittle wet'n'dry, mopped up, and on with colour (Paint shop called it, Fiat 651/A) & then, 30 minutes later, 2k clear..............





Its okay, clear obviously needs a rub down and polish. I did really run out of colour (only had one 400ml can). Was alittle thin, really needed another 100ml. But I'm fairly happy with results, not bad for outdoors, winter spraying and looks a whole lot better than yesterday morning! Circa........ 4 hours labour & £40 costs.