Imported project car in Kent

[tonydrivertraining]

Just a few pictures of when we built the blocks outwards and could wheel the chassis out.
The corrosion on that corner is pretty evident.

[Chris Williams]

Crickey, good luck with that, is that the worst part? was wondering if it started there due to a leaky master cylinder?
Chris

[tonydrivertraining]

Funny you should say that, but with all the mice damage the master cylinder was totally drained so more than likely.

[Chris P]

I recon this car has spent a long time in a very damp place!

[Rich Hanlon]

Sheesh - I'd suggest you're going to need the Larger size tin of body filler....! :lol:

[Doive]

That's a scary amount of chassis corrosion, but everything can be repaired with time, money and effort.

[tonydrivertraining]

Yeah, it's the money that is possibly the most scary bit!
I'm not sure how much will be left after dipping it, but it's gotta be done.

[Doive]

At least once it's dipped, you will know how much needs to be replaced. Good quality thick metal and a decent welder will have it looking right. Hopefully the other side won't be too bad - at least that way you have a reference to build off.

[tonydrivertraining]

I thought my chassis was bad. This one doesn't appear to have one!
http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1981 ... c-3470.htm

[Guinney1971]

I know the car Julian has (Bandit) on here had frame corrosion on it, he got it stripped by a
firm in Nottingham, then it was welded before recoating.

I know #2292's frame needs doing, its getting a bit weetabixy in the rear chassis next to the engine, and
the front has been crusty for years thanks to the brake cylinder leaking when I got the car in 2002.

[tonydrivertraining]

So.
I have shown pictures of the worst bit of the frame.
In the opinion of people who have done big restorations, will it be best for me to get this frame rebuilt, or should I be looking into somehow sourcing a new frame?

[Chris P]

Personally i'd do what Julian…Bandit did.

Dip strip, back home, get friendly with someone who can weld….or learn yourself…..take it a bit at a time, cut out the bad bits, use them as templates, weld in metal of similar thickness..just keep at it.

When its all finished and strong, check all the holes for fit. Then either get it galvanised and or powder-coated…good as new. THe secret is to cut back to good strong..thick metal. Don't try welding 'spiders webs'. Just what i'd do…and may well do myself someday.

[Chris P]

Looking at your pictures again. It looks pretty good in most places…very bad in a few. You could simply cut out and re-weld bits in. Then it would need more work patching up the paint finish to blend it all in. Could be a lot less work...

[Chris Williams]

I think Chris is right, the worst part is where 'probably' the master cylinder has leaked and stripped the epoxy. Possibly a difficult repair area due to the area, but I'm sure a good fabricator could do it.
Chris

[Chris P]

Regarding the engine, i'd take the spark plugs out and pour some diesel down each bore. let a soak a few days and try tuning it again. Leave the plugs out.

Nothing to loose really and it would be easier with the engine still fastened in the chassis. It you've not already done it, drain the oil from the engine and see if its full of water? I'd then put a gallon of cheap engine oil and a new oil filter…... for turning over purposes.

Ive used this technique on numerous sized engines before …(but never a DeLorean one)