VIN 16583

[dclsteve]

The decision to buy a Delorean started in 1989 while wandering through St Albans and seeing one parked up with a for sale sticker on it. I didn’t have the £14k asking price in those days but made the vow I’d have one at some point. So 24 years and 2 kids later I bought…a Rolls Royce. OK, it was a bit of an impulse but sparked off an interest in the Delorean again. A year or so later I found a few on the net but the one that really caught my eye was #16583 in Sweden. Full history from day 1 which includes 10 years as an art exhibit.
After some negotiation with the owner, who really didn’t want to part with it, the deal was done and then I had the problem on how to get it home. Obvious solution, drive it! .
So, back in the UK. The work starts....

[dclsteve]

Back in the barn...First job was headlights. I replaced all 4 with UK RHD type and while they were out the headlamp adjustment screws cleaned up and replaced all the screws with stainless steel ones.
Chris sent me some very useful instructions on changing two of the brake lights to fog lights. To make the job a bit neater I used a DMC HRW switch for the fogs and piggy backed the HRW warning light. After switching the fog/brake lights round the wrong way on the relay...works a treat.
I will be replacing the headlining, binnacle and door seals so took the chance to see what was written behind the drivers door headlining.

[dclsteve]

And so.....MOT time, which is also needed to get it on the UK register. And....failed...bum! An advisory on the track rod end dust covers, but the O/S handbrake wasn't doing anything. While on the rolling road we spotted that the rear N/S wheel was binding slightly. So, back to the barn. The O/S handbrake cable had popped out the handbrake lever. The cable seems impossible to fit back on without removing the seat? But more important, why did it pop out? My theory is that if the handbrake works more on one side than the other then the other cable will be slack enough to pop off? While in grubby mode, I've whipped off the N/S rear caliper and one of the pistons has seized hence why binding. Decided rather than a DIY repair, I've sent it off to be refurbished by a brake specialist.
In the meantime....back onto the electrics....

[dclsteve]

Electrics..... The fusebox had melted around the headlight area and the previous owner had replaced the full beam fuse into a separate holder. Why was that? Looks like both the headlight and full beam fuses run very hot without blowing. I've moved the headlight fuse but any pointers why they run hot? 20A should be ok and I'm a bit wary of replacing with 30A.
In the meantime, all the fuses have been replaced and a relay replacement set on order. 30 year old relays are a common failure on both the Rolls and Jag so I'm guessing the DeLorean will be the same!

[Domi]

Congratulation on your purchase and welcome to the forum

[Guinney1971]

what a great find you have there, I'm sure you'll have it all sorted and on the road in no time.

BTTF Brian is also in Bognor, so you're in good company

[Doive]

Welcome to the forum! Great plan driving a car all the way back from Sweden, what a road trip! Love the door graffiti too

As for the headlight fuses melting, something is slightly amiss there. Possibly a loose connection on one of the fuse carrier spades, high impedance allowing a heat build up and voltage drop, current increase, heat increase etc etc, until the fuse carrier burned out. The dipped beams should only draw 110W @ 12V, so a little less than 10A. I wouldn't go putting a 30A fuse in to replace a 20A, that way lies trouble! The smoke may escape from the wires.

[Darren C]

dclsteve Wrote:But more important, why did it pop out? My theory is that if the handbrake works more on one side than the other then the other cable will be slack enough to pop off?

YES.

See my ultimate thread on the handbrake. Sounds like someone has tried to adjust the handbrake by shortening the cable length on one side using the lock nuts on the sheath. This puts the plate under the lever at an angle and "pop" one cable becomes dislocated.

PM me with your phone number as I live only 15 mins away and I'll come over to you and give you all the help you need.

[dclsteve]

Thanks for the comments! Caliper is back next week, and hopefully a big box of bits from DMC Europe....... Watch this space!

[Darren C]

I did an oil & filters change on my car this morning and for a test drive went over to meet Steve and see his car.

What a great guy, and a stunning car. Fantastic project for what is sure to be another very nice car. Everything feels good and honest about the car, and its not been messed around with over the years.

A Great find Steve! See you again tomorrow :wink:

[dclsteve]

Thanks Darren - very useful comparing cars and adding a few more bits to the list...!
Handbrake now done. After replacing the N/S rear caliper the way I adjusted it so that it pulled both sides evenly was to remove both rear wheels and measuring the adjustment each side (see next pic). This obviously assumes the pads have the same wear. Not sure if this is right but until I get it on the the rolling road its going to be hard to tell. The distance of 21.5mm seems to be about the right amount of pull on the handbrake.
Also during the week, another box of bits arrived from Ed and over the weekend I've replaced the headlining - its only when comparing old and new when I saw how bad the old lining was. New headlining was bought as a kit and is a perfect fit (other than a small adjustment to the sun visor holes). More scribbles on the passenger door - I think I've seen another mention of Metal Mickey?

[dclsteve]

Also....not sure what to do with the old headliner so just popped it on EBay...

[tonydrivertraining]

I'm already watching it to use as a template!

[dclsteve]

Nearly there.... Replaced the binnacle from Ed. Perfect fit and really pleased with the finish, well worth the money. The new headlining is all done with new door seals, new sunvisors. And now I keep looking at the carpet! Its ok....but.. So bought a Vax (I'm sure wifey will enjoy it as a Christmas pressie) and see how they come up.
Changed the drivers door strut, had a few issues with the balls (see other post). Turns out my balls were too small! I've replaced them with new balls of the right size. So, all I have left to do now is to clean carpet, pop the drivers seat back in and get an MOT..tar dar! I have been re-graining and polishing the stainless, looks jolly shiny. The shine also appeals to an elusive bird somewhere in the barn as I keep finding small bird poop on various bits. Now have a cover.

[TheOriginalMrP]

Nice job on the binnacle Steve, and great news you've acquired bigger balls!

Honestly, take them carpets out, douse them in interior cleaner or carpet cleaner, then pressure wash them if you have a washer. You can vax the bulk of the water out, then take them in the house to dry for a few days... Mine were dry in just a week hung up in my old unit in the middle of winter. They were spotless afterwards...

Otherwise you will vax and vac them but they will never be as clean.

Its not the same type of insulation bonded to the carpets that never dries out. Trust me on this, my carpets were soaked in coolant from a burst heater matrix, so I was adamant I was gonna pressure wash them. I had fears they wouldn't dry for months, I was wrong!

And carpets come out easy when seats and centre console is out...

Ben