cooling system

[andyd]

Hello,

Can I get an opinion on this please?

I have got the box out to do the clutch. A number of "while I'm in theres" have occured. And some other things which I had been planning to do anyway.

So its become cv joints, rear wheel bearings, shocks, suspension rubbers, front wheel bearings, suspension rubbers to finish the chassis. I have one of ed's rads and fans to fit (when the arb is off) and that will need all new silicone hoses. A minor gearbox leak will be addressed too, and a new crank seal and clutch slave. Oh, and a crossgate cable too.

So before the box goes back in, I want to do the silicone cooling hoses, especially the small ones just above the transmission. So I need to drain the coolant. And I cant get it finished with the rad and fans and get the box in, starter on etc all at once (cars in glasgow, I live in London).

My question: is it particularly bad for the block to leave it drained? Ie no corrosion inhibitor? Will it fur up? At what point should I flush the block? Obviously before fitting the rad... or is it ok to just drain the coolant and leave it till the next trip up?

Ok to leave it drained? Probably 6 months before its running....

Cheers, andy

[Chris Williams]

If your replacing all the hoses with new ones anyway why not clamp shut/fold over the hoses to keep as much coolant in/dirt out of the engine whilst you work on the rest of it?
I have just fitted one of Ed's rads and DPNW fan kits. You can do it without removing the ARB, it only gets in the way for removing the old fans and housing, if its scrap you can cut it up and remove it bit by bit.
Chris

[andyd]

Thanks Chris, its an idea...

But I think trying to get the lower hoses clamped off would be tricky, and maybe not that effective. Also, I want to get them changed before I put the box back in, which wont be for a while...

Anyone got an opinion about how the interals of the block's passages will fare?

a

[Chris Williams]

I think I perhaps was not very clear! what I was suggesting was to block/bend over the two large pipes that feed the waterpump and the two (I think) that come out of the back of the engine (valley) by the clutch slave. This would keep most of the coolant in the engine but allow everything else to be drained down. Hope this makes sence! :wink:
Chris

[andyd]

Chris Williams Wrote:... the two (I think) that come out of the back of the engine (valley) by the clutch slave.

Yes Chris, it doesmake sense, but I also want to change these ones too, while the box is out... if you get me??

Anyway, I think I will just drain it, change hoses, leave it, then get the box in, flush the motor and put the new rad and associated pipes on.

Thinking about it, complete engines sit dry all the time. Surely it can't be that bad...?

I suspect that I am just being over-ocd again!

Cheers

A

[JamesRGUK]

andyd Wrote:

Chris Williams Wrote:... the two (I think) that come out of the back of the engine (valley) by the clutch slave.

Yes Chris, it doesmake sense, but I also want to change these ones too, while the box is out... if you get me??

Anyway, I think I will just drain it, change hoses, leave it, then get the box in, flush the motor and put the new rad and associated pipes on.

Thinking about it, complete engines sit dry all the time. Surely it can't be that bad...?

I suspect that I am just being over-ocd again!

Cheers

A

I can't imagine for one minute that leaving the engine dry will cause any problems, the inhibitors you add to coolant are to protect the engine from the water itself.

Sitting dry is probably far better than sitting with fluid in.

J