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As some of you might know, I've had two apparent oil leaks coming from the back of the car around the engine and gearbox area. I thought one was a gearbox leak, and the other an engine leak. The reason I thought this is because one is golden clean looking, and the other a more dirty black colour.
Although I'm still convinced I have an engine oil leak, the guy working on the car during the MOT time on Friday said that I have two gearbox leaks, neither too bad. He showed me. It appears that one is from the gear link connection for the connection to the gear stick, and the other is the nearside drive shaft seal (identified before work began on replacing the nearside wheel bearing on the same day)
Can I presume that it is the following part numbers I need, and can anyone tell me what the part numbers are for getting in the UK, or at least the other car's who also share the same parts?
Saving me having to order them from Holland.
http://store.delorean.com/p-8587-half-bushing.aspx
http://store.delorean.com/p-8586-bellows.aspx
http://store.delorean.com/p-8503-bushing.aspx
http://store.delorean.com/p-8504-lip-seal.aspx
http://store.delorean.com/p-8475-lip-seal.aspx
http://store.delorean.com/p-8476-o-ring-seal.aspx
Any help or advice would be appreciated.
Rissy
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nudge nudge nudge.
...any help?
Rissy
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May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
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the wheeler dealers Delorean had a gearbox leak....any info given on the program ???????
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malcy34 Wrote:the wheeler dealers Delorean had a gearbox leak....any info given on the program ???????
Their leak was from the main drive shaft seal between the engine and the gearbox. This is where I originally thought mine was from too, but i'm assured not. It's from the nearside drive shaft seal leading to the left rear wheel. The RHS is fine.
I have pics of the two leaky areas, if this helps anyone deduce what replacement parts I need....?
Rissy
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May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
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Bit of a tricky one, allways difficult to judge where an oil leak is coming from exactly. Cant say I'm an expert on gearbox leaks other than knowing the driveshaft seals can go and can be sleved. Also the rear crank seal can leak badly which could be the dirty oil from the clutch area.
Chris
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Chris Williams Wrote:Bit of a tricky one, allways difficult to judge where an oil leak is coming from exactly. Cant say I'm an expert on gearbox leaks other than knowing the driveshaft seals can go and can be sleved. Also the rear crank seal can leak badly which could be the dirty oil from the clutch area.
Chris
You misunderstand Chris. The sources of the oil leaks have been identified, as my original post in the thread. I'm more looking for confirmation from someone with previous experience of oil leaking from the same areas, that the parts I've identified from the DMC Store, are actually what I need to fix them...
Rissy
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http://www.renaultalpineownersclub.com/ ... pr1132.pdf
This will give you all the Renault numbers you should need. NB this is a 13Mb PDF!
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I've had some help with what seals I ought to think about changing to fix my gearbox leaks. (Cheers Rich!)
I remember reading somewhere that when changing some seal or another, then you were advise to put in some sort of stainless reinforcement or something to help keep the car from leaking again....or something (very vague memory). Can someone advice what, and where to find this part was, and under what circumstances it was advised to buy and install them? I don't want to miss a golden opportunity of doing this if its the same seals in question as I'm going to be doing hopefully in September....
Thanks in advance.
Rissy
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May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
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Engine: #2839
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2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
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your probably meaning the sleaves that can be fitted to the output flanges, so its tighter against the seal.
I'll try and find some better info for ya matey
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i dont know where you can get them for the UN1, try a renault specialist
usually you heat them up, put your flanges in the freezer, and then just pop them together, when they come up to normal temp then will never come apart
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The one that Rob had just shown is the same as the one I recently fitted. a SKF sleeve. The instructions said smear a bit of lock-tite type stuff on the old shaft and then knock it down using the little cap thingy. It worked ok at room temperature, but I guess it would have been easier using the temperature difference method.
Mine works fine, no leaks now and cost about £25 all in, including the new oil seal.
Chris Parnham
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Cheers chaps. The link you've given Martin...it seems to indicate for worn shafts, but if the shaft isn't worn, is it still recommended to put these on anyway?
Can someone advise of which ones I need to buy from this site? (If someone has already done the homework, can we please share, rather than all of us having to re-invent the wheel over and over?) I literally need someone to point a big finger and say "this is the one you need"....sorry, it's just not possible for me to measure dimensions etc. I'm 325 miles away from the car all the time, and time is TIGHT when i visit Scotland. I will be taking the car to the garage for this, so need to be able to have all the bits ready in hand for the visit....
Thanks again, in advance. :wink:
Interestingly, how is this going to stop oil leaking from a drive shaft seal? It looks as though this gives you a new face in which to fit a new bearing, but i'm not doing that....?
Rissy
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May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
Grey, Flapped, Black
Chassis: #1073
Engine: #2839
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2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
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I used them for my Renault 17 which had leaking from the box around the drive shafts because the ends of the drive shafts had become pitted with corrosion. ( car had been standing for many years). What that does is put a very thin sleeve over the pitted bit so that the lip of the seal is now running on the smooth stainless sleeve rather than the pitted original surface. They are very thin, I.e the resultant extra diameter of the shaft is only slightly greater than the original, meaning that the standard spec seal will go over it as intended. It also means the seal is a wee bit tighter than usual. speedysleeves are not a bearing surface, just a sealing surface, I.e the pressure of the bearing does not act upon them ( stainless no good as a brg surface).
Unfortunately I don't know the diameter of the shaft off the top, I don't have a spare to measure, and they are different to my Renault 17 ones ( that has a type 365 box). From memory speedysleeves go up in something like 0.25 mm increments, it should be easy enough to mic up a driveshaft if anyone has one on the bench.
Richard Hanlon
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Rich Hanlon Wrote:I used them for my Renault 17 which had leaking from the box around the drive shafts because the ends of the drive shafts had become pitted with corrosion. ( car had been standing for many years). What that does is put a very thin sleeve over the pitted bit so that the lip of the seal is now running on the smooth stainless sleeve rather than the pitted original surface. They are very thin, I.e the resultant extra diameter of the shaft is only slightly greater than the original, meaning that the standard spec seal will go over it as intended. It also means the seal is a wee bit tighter than usual. speedysleeves are not a bearing surface, just a sealing surface, I.e the pressure of the bearing does not act upon them ( stainless no good as a brg surface).
Unfortunately I don't know the diameter of the shaft off the top, I don't have a spare to measure, and they are different to my Renault 17 ones ( that has a type 365 box). From memory speedysleeves go up in something like 0.25 mm increments, it should be easy enough to mic up a driveshaft if anyone has one on the bench.
Cheers for this Rich, although i'm still confused.
From the above writings, it seems that this sleeve fits over Part 7 as shown here:
http://store.delorean.com/c-385-4-7-0-drive-axles.aspx
Yet, i'm being advised to replace parts (in order of likely cause of my oil leak from the drive seal):
Part 24: 104216
Part 25: 103013
from: http://store.delorean.com/c-380-4-1-1-g ... asing.aspx
and
Part 1: 103120
from: http://store.delorean.com/c-381-4-1-3-final-drive.aspx
So how is this suggested sleeve going to stop my oil leaking??
Rissy
(Forum Member 288)
(DOC Member 663)
May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
Grey, Flapped, Black
Chassis: #1073
Engine: #2839
Main Car(s):
2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue
2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
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