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DGS 803X Restoration
#46
When Mike and I installed his on his car using a pit, we just disconnected the right hand driveshaft from the inside for clearance. The crossover pipe was then just spun round and slipped out.

NickT
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#47
Thats assuming the bolts that bolt the crossover to the manifolds come un-done ok :wink:
VIN: 6511
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#48
Today's update. Front lower arms now re-enforced with the extra plates underneath. Now need a good shot blast, the camera flash shows up the surface rust really bad!

[Image: 14.jpg]
VIN: 6511
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#49
Hi Dan,

Make sure the hole for the ball joints are ok and not worn or oval, before you spend money on paint/powdercoat.

I had to weld build up my O/S arm then bore it out because the new ball joint just fell in and wobbled around Shock

Just try the new ball joints (without pressing them in) before you paint the arms up.

Kind regards
D
VIN 4532

DOC-574
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#50
Hi Darren, thanks for the advice. My old ball joints were very tight in the holes and I pressed them out careful so the hole should be fine. I am putting the ball joints back in afterwords because they are absolutely fine. I'm all for changing parts for new while things are apart but they really are perfectly ok and feel very tight.
VIN: 6511
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#51
Dan1986 Wrote:Thats assuming the bolts that bolt the crossover to the manifolds come un-done ok :wink:

They do with an air gun, either that or they shear off nicely Smile

NickT
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#52
Dan1986 Wrote:My old ball joints were very tight in the holes and I pressed them out careful so the hole should be fine. I am putting the ball joints back in afterwords because they are absolutely fine. I'm all for changing parts for new while things are apart but they really are perfectly ok and feel very tight.

Hi Dan

I would strongly recomend fitting reinforcement Collar as the whole control arm is very thin metal. Took this from Grady's site, which I have fitted before

119266G Reinforcement Collar Kit, Lwr Balljoint
This collar kit strengthens the balljoint mounting areas of the lower link arm. Many "CLUNKY" lower ball joints havce been unnecessarily replaced because of a loose fit to the link arm. Easy installation. Directions included. - $23.95

This is a link to PJ Grady UK site, these are the control arms from my old car, I shot blast them, then Chris N added the plates then I rebult them, you can see the gold 'ring'
http://pjgrady.co.uk//GenericContent.asp..._Arms.html
Chris Spratt

Ex owner of Vin#16327 Grey 5 Speed was FLE 371Y
1998 Lotus Esprit GT3
1999 Lotus Elise
DOC 4
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#53
They look familiar Smile
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#54
Thanks for that Chris. I didn't know those collars existed. Looking at how they fit it looks like the collar would make the ball joint sit too low making the circlip imposable to get on! How does it work?

Cheers, Dan

EDIT: Ignore that question, on inspection of my arms I can see how the collars fit
VIN: 6511
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#55
Hi Dan,

STOP!

Do not re used your old ball joints in the arms. They are manufactured as an interference fit with a spline knurl on the circumference that deforms when they are pressed in. Once you've taken them out they'll never fit properly or as tight again.

Besides there only a few quid new and you would want to compromise your good work on the rest of the car.

Just my two penneth :wink:

Regards
D
VIN 4532

DOC-574
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#56
Hi Darren,

I have heard people having problems with the new ones too, such as the thread stripping in the nut and the threaded part actually shearing off Shock
VIN: 6511
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#57
If i was doing mine i wouldnt use anything but these available from SpecialT Auto... these are not the same as the main vendors sell.. these are far more substaintial like the origional ones are.

[Image: delorean-lower-ball-joint-1.jpg]
Lower ball joint with
support retainer.

Reinforcement ring must be used to
press in the lower ball joint.
If not the ball joint won't be tight.
Ball joint with retainer
109266BR $46.90 ea.
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#58
Dan1986 Wrote:Hi Darren,

I have heard people having problems with the new ones too, such as the thread stripping in the nut and the threaded part actually shearing off Shock


9 times out of 10 it's the person doing the work not the materials :roll:

What ever you do Dan, I wouldn't re use the old ones, besides with all new bushes etc any play will be directed at the weakest point, and wear and tear on the original ball joints that you didn't know was there may suddenly be a problem.

I know it's a few more quid than you were counting on, but please trust me on this, as you'll only be postponing the inevitable, and as I said early you are doing a really good job on the car, so don't spoil it over a few quid.

Regards
D
VIN 4532

DOC-574
Reply
#59
Thanks Darren, in that case I might go for a set of John's balljoints Big Grin I was a bit wary of changing my good originals for suspect quality DMCH ones just for the sake of it.

I now need to sort something out for the upper arm bushes (see my other post)
VIN: 6511
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#60
Darren C Wrote:
Dan1986 Wrote:9 times out of 10 it's the person doing the work not the materials :roll:

Regards
D


Hi Darren

Normally I would agree but unfortunatley the D seems to be getting plauged with poorly made / newly manufactured parts, maybe its the way of the world now but its a pity that parts cannot be made correctly with quality materials, casting etc .... just my 2p bud.
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