A few running queeries & tick-tock issues

[JamesRGUK]

Hi all,

I was fortunate enough to use my DeLorean to commute to work for a few days last week which was a good opportunity to give a good run around.

I have noticed a few things that I would like to get sorted.

Engine
I think these are probably engine set-up issues rather than anything serious.

1)When starting the car always cranks a few times fires splutters and then stops and then on the second attempt fires right up, this happens weather the engine is cold or hot so I’m assuming it’s some kind of fuel pressure issue.
My fuel pump does not prime when the key is in position 2 but I understand that this is more of car-to-car thing rather than an intentional design of the RPM relay.
Also is there an easy way of testing to see if the cold start valve is working?

2) Under heavy acceleration it feels as if the car is almost pinking, I’ve experienced fuel starvation issues in the past and I’m sure this is an ignition issue. What should the timing be set to for an engine with the so-called “Stage 1 Upgrade” ?

3) Could someone sketch out the best vacuum pipe routing for the stage 1 engine as I’m sure that my vac pipes are all wrong and I wonder if this is causing vac advance issues in which case it may be the answer to my previous question.
Sorry Nick T you did describe it over the phone but that crumpled enveloped that I hurriedly scribbled it down on has since been recycled.

Electrical
The indicators on my car work fine but the tick-tocking sound in the cabin is virtually silent, is there any easy remedy for this?
I often find that the steering wheel (however I adjust it) seems to hide the flashing indicator signals on the binnacle from view and I often forget to cancel them. It almost caused a nasty incident at a mini round-about the other day.

As always any help greatly appreciated.


James

[NickT]

To test cold start valve:

Only do this with an engine that is cold ie left overnight.Remove fuse #1 to prevent car from running (although it will crank)
Disconnect blue electrical connector from the cold start valve.
Use a multi-meter set to volts and on the 20v range (if not autoranging).
Hold both test cables to the pins on the blue cold start valve.
Get a friend/ assistant to crank the engine.
You should get 12v when the engine is cranking.
This will only occur for a few seconds (prob between 7 to 12 secs) as the thermo time switch will then disconnect the earth return electrically.

If you do not get 12v then connect black lead of multimeter to engine block/ earth point.
Get assistant to crank engine.
Check if you get 12v at one of the pins (I forget the color of this cable - not like me.)
If you do then chances are it is the thermotime switch and/ or the cabling to/ from it.

Set multimeter to resistance (ohms) scale.
Check resistance of the cold start injector. It should be low but not open circuit.

If the above tests are successful then do the folowing test the next day when the engine is cold.

Remove cold start injector and hold over a large glass container/ glass milk bottle.
TIP: Ensure you have a fire extinguisher to hand just in case.

Ensure fuse #1 is connected so the engine will run but disconnect the low tension cable off the coil at point "12" or "+". The fuel pump needs to run while cranking.

Get an assistant to crank engine over.
You should get a spray of fuel out of the injector for about 7 to 12 seconds then it should go off. This is normal.

Good luck. I don't have wiring manuals to hand at the moment, having a sandwich break inbetween fault finding an inverter/ encoder problem on a paper rewinder. (No spares in stores so looking for a magic wand................)

NickT

[NickT]

Regarding pinking, classic sign of over-advanced timing or too lean a mixture.

This is related to vac pipe routing so vac pipe as following:

Vac pipe routing is open to debate as in the RPM relay, but this is how I have set them up:

Engine manifold to 2 inch vac pipe.
On end of vac pipe connect a T (or Y) connector.
Connect vac pipe from Right hand side of T connector to centre vac connection of distributor solenoid.
Connect vac pipe from Left hand side of T connector to CPR vac connector.
Connect Distributor Vac Advance Diaphragm to outer distributor solenoid.

If using DeLorean CPR, then connect the Left hand side of the new T ( or Y) connector to vac pipe to the OEM original black T piece.

All this does is bypass the thermo-vac switch.

NickT

[NickT]

Spark distributor timing OEM Delorean setting is 13 deg btdc (before top dead centre) with distributor vac pipe disconnected (although if the vac pipes are correctly routed and the distributor solenoid is working then this does not need to be disconnected).

OEM Volvo B28E engine setting is 10 deg btdc vac pipe disconnected with fuelling set to 2% co (+/- 0.5%)

Some people tune the engine to ear by advancing the timing until engine pinks then retarding it until it doesn't. This is OK as long as the remaining car is in tune and set correctly.

NickT

[NickT]

3) The tick-tock sound comes from the flasher unit. Apart from dismantling it and seeing if you can make it louder, just replace it if you cannot hear it.

NickT

[NickT]

Fuelling tests I have outlined in:

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=2472

NickT

[Chris Hawes]

James, I might have a spare fully working flasher unit. If I still have it I will look for it in time for Norfolk on the 24th and I'll give it to you then.

Looks like the haystack will need a good sorting to find that pin :wink:

[NickT]

My car (and others I have looked at) run the fuel pump for 2 seconds.
This pressurises the fuel system prior to starting.
I don't have problems with the car starting because of this.

I am unsure why some cars don't.

Says on here too:
http://www.auto-solve.com/mech_inj.htm

"
NOTE :- while the connections are correct for certain vehicles, the appropriate pins must be identified before testing. Certain relays also perform a pressurisation purge by allowing the pump to run for a second before shutting off, to prime the system
"

I would say it should do this, other say it shouldn't. I am glad mine does as I don't have starting problems (apart from getting out of bed in a morning!)

I have heard that if you flash the main headlamps the fuel pump relay would operate and run the pump for a couple of seconds. Try doing this on your car and see if it does. If it does then do this before starting the car to see if it starts easier.

NickT

[Phil Peters]

NickT Wrote:I have heard that if you flash the main headlamps the fuel pump relay would operate and run the pump for a couple of seconds. Try doing this on your car and see if it does. If it does then do this before starting the car to see if it starts easier.
NickT

That's got to be one of the best DeLorean "quirks" I reckon :lol:

Another of my personal favourites that used to happen on VIN# 4400 was the oil pressure guage doing a full 360 spin backwards sometimes when the engine was at idle. Used to terrify any passengers travelling in the car for the first time :lol:

[NickT]

I forgot to add, there is an empty relay base in the fuse compartment with only 3 wires in it.
Add a fourth wire to the blank hole and connect this to earth and install a relay (a european one where the coil pins 85 and 86 are opposite each other). This is an add on that operates the cold start valve in extreme hot climates. It might help where fuelling on startup is a problem ie on the cars that don't operate the rpm fuel pump relay.

NickT