how do we replace the o ring in fuel distributor?

[steve.s]

Hi
right more problems to solve.

fitted new fuel pump, started up foine, ran for 15 minutes.

then stopped for ten. tried to restart but had a couple of attempts and did not really want to.

then major panic, hose blew off the fuel pump supply (at the pump)

fuel pouring from under the car!.

disconnected the battery and stood clear with fire extinguisher, (what good that would have done)

thank god, no fire.

so for one i may still have my hot start problem, so was going to change the o ring in the distributor any one know a UK source for the bits?

and i need a decent long banjo bolt on the 957 style pump or inclined banjo as the one i had from special T seems short, hence the clip and hose does not have much to tighten on.

i do not want to go throu that again!!

accumulator has been changed for new

[NickT]

Hi Steve, your topic title asked how do we replace the O ring in the fuel distributor. I posted images there of exploded diagrams that may help in the DGS HOT START (previous) post:

http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/viewto ... c&start=60

As for getting these O rings, try Darren at PJ Grady (Europe) as I know he has changed a couple of these.

NickT

[Dan6457]

I got mine from specialtauto in texas but unless your getting other parts its a bit daft to order 2 o-rings on there own! They are really easy to change, just pop the airbox off and undo the nut at the front of the distributor and slide all the gubbins out, pop the new rings on and bolt it back in.

[steve.s]

hi

had 20 mins today....nut would not come loose, but the allen keyhole to the front, is this a lock nut? or adjust?.

so do i loosen off this and then undo bolt.

the car has always had a hot start issue, and i have a feeling this could be the culprit (accumulator changed, all y pipe sensors changed etc)

thanx for any help.

[Dan6457]

On mine I just undid the nut, I didn't touch the allenkey hole. I put a spanner on the nut then gave the end a quick clout with the palm of my hand and it popped loose.

[steve.s]

hi

undone mine.

part has come out

i gather you have to undo the fuel return? inlet to poke out a sleeve and another o ring?

another question, has anyone tried to get the fuel line off to the pump?, i have tried to get the connection off to the hard line. the rear big nut now undoes and slides backwards, but the connector bit with the plastic pipe on will not budge.

in theory it should be completely loose, but seems to have bonded intself to the metal fuel pipe.

why did they make these so short, any problem i cannot even cut and make a new end, and i am scared of damaging that fuel pipe (body off to replace!)

[Dan6457]

to get my o-ring out I didn't remove any pipes. I pulled the first piece out with the spring on, then inserted some long nose pliers and pulled the other bit out with them. You have to put the pliers in folded in, then open them in the hole to grip the part on the inside as its cylindrical.

[steve.s]

hi

right, had mine out and looks fine.

was hoping it was poor though!.

so just refitting the pump, and will try to start.

Acculuator has been done, so next will be the distributor coil?

a lot of our cars seem to have the hot start problem, and seems difficult to track down

[PJ Grady (Europe)]

Steve,

Just to double check - when you pulled the PPR from the distributor, did you check/replace BOTH of the little o-rings? There's the obvious one that you can see, and there's a secondary one on the little sleeve (and this one is sometimes missing).

If you've replaced the pump, accumulator and these 2 little o rings - there aren't many obvious candidates left! Have you checked the injectors?

Best regards

Darren

[steve.s]

Hi Darren

yes i did check both, and as far as i could see looked ok.

i have only checked the injectors by placing in glass jars and cranking.

they seemed ok.

i will see if i still have the hot start problem when i have finished fitting the new pump (possibly tonight).

i did wonder maybe i should change the pulse coil?.

As Chris has probably told you, my car refuses to hot start say one in three!, but i don't like the chance thinking i wii be stuck.

i did also wonder if the fuel distibutor plunger is sticking.

[Rich H]

Possible you may have a leaking cold start injector which is causing over fuelling?

Or maybe a short on the thermo time switch which is opening the cold start injector when it shouldn't?

[bozzzydmc]

steve.s Wrote:i have only checked the injectors by placing in glass jars and cranking.

If these are spraying correctly and shutting off after and not constantly dribbling then these will be ok.

Yes good idea of Richs, check the CSV , this is basically another injector that operates only during cranking, this should switch off when the car has fired up or if cranking takes longer than 8 - 15 seconds then the thermo time switch ( on the water pump ) opens up to switch this off via the ground, make sure it does and is not constantly spraying when the car is running.

[steve.s]

hi

i think Chris N changed the cold start valve when he had it in, had same fault before and after.

i have changed the warm up reg.

i did consider the frequency valve as they are not too pricey.

i will be trying to start later. new pump in but battery low now!.

[NickT]

I have the rig to check the injectors for spray pattern, break and rest pressures.

Sounds like you need to do a fuel pressure test to determine what is the cause rather than try and fix by replacing parts.

You could try disconnecting the blue socket from the cold start valve to stop it operating by the thermo-time switch but this won't test if it is holding pressure/ dribbling or not.

Good luck,

NickT.

[steve.s]

hi

tried last Friday and car started. no fuel leaks!.

now need to warm up to try the hot start, so i'll keep you posted.

taking time as i have been busy and have a large extension to project manage!