Starting Problems

[MonkeyFace]

Thanks for the advice. I'll start checking the cold strat valve and cpr. The car still has a cat so this is probably the cause of the white smoke.

When it does start it will stay running and doesn't stall, it will just run rough for a while which clears after giving it some revs. It does start better giving it some throttle but still won't always start. The frequency valve buzzes away!

Cheers
James

[NickT]

Fuel pressure checks will show correct pump pressure and control pressure.

Maybe the base mixture is incorrect and once warm enough to heat the oxygen sensor this compensates for this. Seen this a lot.

NickT.

[steve.s]

no i have spent ages going through everything on my engine

it may seem daft, but clean the connector to the coil and make sure the coil is ok.

the connector sends a pulse to the ecu. mine was dirty and caused all manner of strange problems.

i think the accumulator can affect cold starting, as it does control initial pressure. always worth changing anyway if its 25 years old!.

this does not sound like a cold start valve problem to me.

i have a spare CPR you could borrow if you want to check. be carefull if you remove any fuel lines as the washers should be replaced.

regards

Steve
vin 1621
still not mot'd

steve

[MonkeyFace]

I checked the cold start valve over the weekend and it sprays fuel for about 1 second when cracking so I assume this is ok as it wasn't to cold on Saturday.

Looks like I'll have to try a fuel pressure check but with the equipment being expensive is there a cheaper method? I remember Martin saying at one stage he was developing a cheap pressure check device. I also found this on the volvo club site

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Special ... reTestTool

Steve thanks for the offer of a cpr to try out I'll take you up on that.

Should the frequency valve buzz constantly all the time when the ignition is turned to positon 2? I'm sure mine doesn't buzz everytime.

Thanks
James

[bozzzydmc]

MonkeyFace Wrote:I checked the cold start valve over the weekend and it sprays fuel for about 1 second when cracking so I assume this is ok as it wasn't to cold on Saturday.

Looks like I'll have to try a fuel pressure check but with the equipment being expensive is there a cheaper method? I remember Martin saying at one stage he was developing a cheap pressure check device. I also found this on the volvo club site

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Special ... reTestTool

Steve thanks for the offer of a cpr to try out I'll take you up on that.

Should the frequency valve buzz constantly all the time when the ignition is turned to positon 2? I'm sure mine doesn't buzz everytime.

Thanks
James

Slightly early this, but the 'Club' now has a fuel pressure test kit for 'hire'.This is a specific Volvo item that has been tested against another set for accurancy and so comes with only the simple bits needed to hook it up. Once i have the last banjo that is missing and we have finished writing/ laminating up the instructions over the next few days then this will be available for use. The 'minimal' cost will all go to club funds ( less postage if applicable) If you or anyone else is interested drop me a line. May as well again plug the fuel injector tester whilst im on it

[NickT]

bozzzydmc Wrote:

MonkeyFace Wrote:I checked the cold start valve over the weekend and it sprays fuel for about 1 second when cracking so I assume this is ok as it wasn't to cold on Saturday.

Looks like I'll have to try a fuel pressure check but with the equipment being expensive is there a cheaper method? I remember Martin saying at one stage he was developing a cheap pressure check device. I also found this on the volvo club site

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Special ... reTestTool

Steve thanks for the offer of a cpr to try out I'll take you up on that.

Should the frequency valve buzz constantly all the time when the ignition is turned to positon 2? I'm sure mine doesn't buzz everytime.

Thanks
James

Slightly early this, but the 'Club' now has a fuel pressure test kit for 'hire'.This is a specific Volvo item that has been tested against another set for accurancy and so comes with only the simple bits needed to hook it up. Once i have the last banjo that is missing and we have finished writing/ laminating up the instructions over the next few days then this will be available for use. The 'minimal' cost will all go to club funds ( less postage if applicable) If you or anyone else is interested drop me a line. May as well again plug the fuel injector tester whilst im on it

the cold start valve sounds like it is working ok.

The frequency valve (really a bleed valve which is a fuel injector from Bosch LH Jetronic injection) should buzz for a couple of seconds when the key is put into position 2. Once the engine is running the fuel pump relay will energise the fuel computer that controls the frequency valves duty cycle.

The fuel pressure gauge mike has is a genuine volvo gauge that was checked against my new gauge.

A common thing is for muck to accumulate behind the filter mesh inside the cpr (control pressure regulator - sometimes known as the WUR warm up regulator)

Download http://oregonstate.edu/~erdts/kjet/file ... uction.pdf

from the
http://oregonstate.edu/~erdts/kjet/docs_green.html

and have a read on how it works or look at the more basic

http://www.auto-solve.com/mech_inj.htm

Also check that the idle speed valve (baked bean size black can near the oil filler) buzzes when the ignition is on position 2. This is a rough guide.

I presume you have checked all fuses and that the relays are in thier correct locations and o parts swapping has been done (and also there is fuel in the tank, the pick up hose does not have any holes in it and is not collapsing under vacuum)

Enjoy.

NickT.

[steve.s]

hi

sorry to repeat myself, but check the coil connections.

i had similar symptoms after 12 years off the road.
tried to cure by: (long list-you may want to try!)
sent ECU for testing to Martin-came back OK.
tested idle valve with a power source, opens and shuts ok.
replaced CPR with a NOS-no difference.
changed rpm relay
took of intake manifold, new lower pipe, shotblast y pipe, new sensors in y pipe, new sealing rings (new water pump, thermostat)
new cold start thermostat sensor (in pump housing)
removed injectors and depressed fuel flap-injectors all fired into jars.
new rotor arm.
removed fuel distributor, removed plunger and cleaned (very,very carefull)
put mixture adjust screws fully home and then readjusted to run on manualidle-car idled ok.
put idle system back, car stilled chugged at startup, ran rough, stalled a few times.
would run with flap pushed down
new tank, pump, pickup, fuel filter, accumulator.

car still ran rough.

then finally changed the coil and cleaned the connectors and now the car runs reasonably. (wanders a bit but will look at further with an analyser and after a blast).

so the moral of my story was even though a fault may sems to point to obvious things, a simple clean up of all earth points, charge the battery, removed and clean all connectors may just cure it.

thinking about it now...just how much have i spent!!!! (worth every penny though)

regards

[Phil Peters]

Hi Steve,

How long do you reckon it'll be till she's all finished? I've been looking forward to seeing your car for ages!

Cheers,

Phil
(fellow Wolverhampton owner :wink: )

[Barson]

steve.s Wrote:...new tank, pump, pickup, fuel filter, accumulator.
...

Whoa mama, I bet those were killers on the pocket. How come you replaced all of those, was it just that the car was running badly?

[steve.s]

Hi Phil

sorry but just logged on, and saw your post.

i know...i've been waiting ages to get her on the road!!. will meet up sometime, but she's not a pretty sight at the moment.

we have a 2.5 year old, and so don't get much time to work on the car at the moment.

must say though, by the time i'm done will know the car inside out!.

to do....new screen to fit but have had so much trouble getting the screws under the surround out. rusty phillips heads are impossible.

seats are half out.....waiting for runners adjust bars from DMUK (via LOTUS) as no originals left.

there is a small chassis rust hole to deal with, but now i've been given! a generator (no power at my lockup) i can get moving more now.

new tank pump etc....car was sitting 12 years (some of it under a pine tree!) and with one door not shut properly.

so
seats damaged (water)
dead brakes
dead clutch slave and master.
seat runners rusty (bar disintegrated).
tank was left open on shipping, stink in container was bad! 12 years of petrol resin!.
pump for the bin along with the support frame, boot, cover etc., door seals shot, front rear fascias need paint, shot tyres, shot headliner.
mouse house in cubby box and behind front grill (had chewed through the headlight wires)

and there are some good bits.
original paperwork, 14 000 miles, no dings, early gas flap, stereo looks perfect but non working (have not done the fuse yet!), rest of interior just needs a clean.
now runs and drives short distance, gearbox seems ok.

should i write an article for the MAG...the life and timesof a Delorean restorer!!.

regards

so if anyone does take on a rebuild, be prepared for a lot of work.

[steve.s]

hi Dave

just thought i'd clarify, its amazing how much damaged old fuel does.

the pump boot had been eaten, the pump was seized, the tank would have cleaned, but lots and lots or acetone, so a £50 from chris seemed the easier option and no chance of dirt!.

the pickup system i bought the specialT upgrade from the US but not sure now how good it is.
the baffle is not used and the intank filter sits on the bottom of the tank.
basically it all moves over a couple of inches and i'm not sure this will make the tnak look empty when really there is some fuel in.
time will tell.

the fuel filter was rusty inside, and not sure but the accumulator i reckon was also no good. this is definately a bad job and not for the nervous with petrol.
so tank was £50, pump was about £80, boot etc about £50, filters £20, hoses £20. so all in all not bad.
i then put all six injectors in jars, jumped the pump and had petrol spraying into these!! extuinguisher at the ready...should have took a photo.

a bad one was also changing the clutch slave (blind), from below getting intimate with the gearbox, fluid going everywhere.

regards

regards

[Phil Peters]

steve.s Wrote:Hi Phil

should i write an article for the MAG...the life and timesof a Delorean restorer!!.

Sounds like the making of a great article to me Steve! How about writing "the story so far" for the magazine and then send us part 2 once the restoration is complete?

Cheers,

Phil

[Barson]

steve.s Wrote:hi Dave


the pickup system i bought the specialT upgrade from the US but not sure now how good it is.
the baffle is not used and the intank filter sits on the bottom of the tank.
basically it all moves over a couple of inches and i'm not sure this will make the tnak look empty when really there is some fuel in.


regards

let us know how you get on, because I am after one of those pick-up kits.

I'm suspecting that my fuel pump isn't delivering a constant flow of fuel to the accumulator because when I checked out my pump (which I was suprised was brand new) a kink formed in the pick-up tupe as i lifted it. I'm guessing that the kink returns as the fuel pump is sat in the boot and is also the reason why I can hear the pump running quite loudly from in the car i.e. I think it's trying to hard to pick-up the fuel...

let us know how you get on
cheers
Dave.

[NickT]

Barson Wrote:

steve.s Wrote:hi Dave


the pickup system i bought the specialT upgrade from the US but not sure now how good it is.
the baffle is not used and the intank filter sits on the bottom of the tank.
basically it all moves over a couple of inches and i'm not sure this will make the tnak look empty when really there is some fuel in.


regards

let us know how you get on, because I am after one of those pick-up kits.

I'm suspecting that my fuel pump isn't delivering a constant flow of fuel to the accumulator because when I checked out my pump (which I was suprised was brand new) a kink formed in the pick-up tupe as i lifted it. I'm guessing that the kink returns as the fuel pump is sat in the boot and is also the reason why I can hear the pump running quite loudly from in the car i.e. I think it's trying to hard to pick-up the fuel...

let us know how you get on
cheers
Dave.

Have you done the "wind up some stainless wire into a spring and shove it in the pipe to prevent it from collapsing" mod ??

If not you might as well do it as the pump is out.

Have fun.

NickT.

[steve.s]

hi all

yes phil, i may just do that for the Mag, only problem i don't have that many pics as i have only recently bought a digital camera (but have a canon 350D slr...fantastic camera)

if anyone needs any tips on the areas so far, more than happy to help.

removing the front fascia is interesting, shame John D could not go to stainless screws/bolts/brackets!.

am ready to work on the screen, and fancy cutting out myself. (gather you heat the knife then just cut).

spoke to Lotus today, and they say they have the seat adjust bars in stock, which are a direct equivalent (Houston have none). will let all of you know if these fit OK, their faxed diagram looks the same as the DMC one.

regarding the fuel system, i will let all know if the specialT seems OK.
not sure yet after several yards!!!.

i did try their clutch bleed extender however (and it may have just been this one) mine came apart when i fitted it. then discovered that the slave was dead anyway so had to remove all.


by the way (i know this is the wrong section) but i did a search on youtube and found some interesting stuff. particularly like the 81 TV advert.

regards all

Steve
vin 1621
doc 370