VIN 4566 Restoration

[Dan Willis]

I know Chris. You're not brave enough.

Actually, the frame is fine - it's the front crumple zone that needs work. The body has to come off to do that, so why not take advantage?

In any case, with an engine refurb, new interior, brakes, suspension etc... I might as well make the thing as good as new.

[Dan Willis]

A few more hours work today;

The car usually faces this way:
DeLorean works by Dan Willis, on Flickr

So, on to dollies she went, and I span her around. Now the engine faces the door and when I raise the body off, it'll be far easier to wheel the frame out backwards. Or so I hope.
Delorean Works-2 by Dan Willis, on Flickr

I then gave her a wipe down. That's the first time since she's been in the UK (and likely the past few years); dirt is no good:
Delorean Works-6 by Dan Willis, on Flickr
Delorean Works-7 by Dan Willis, on Flickr
Delorean Works-11 by Dan Willis, on Flickr

Then back on to the engine. A stubborn bolt would not come out of the manifold, so I took off the fuel/air inlet (with a broken stud of it's own)
First off, height on the dollies (an extra 3 inches):
Delorean Works-19 by Dan Willis, on Flickr

Then the engine height (so minus 3 inches)
Delorean Works-21 by Dan Willis, on Flickr

Inlet off:
Delorean Works-23 by Dan Willis, on Flickr

Manifold off:
Delorean Works-25 by Dan Willis, on Flickr

Broken stud. Looks repairable though:
Delorean Works-26 by Dan Willis, on Flickr

The valley. Well, what to say? Full of dirt, washers, bolts, bit of rubber hosing and god knows what else. Never been in yours? Well, have a look:
Delorean Works-27 by Dan Willis, on Flickr
Delorean Works-28 by Dan Willis, on Flickr

Nice?

20 minutes with a vacuum:
Delorean Works-31 by Dan Willis, on Flickr

And, height of engine without manifold: (minus 3 inches)
Delorean Works-30 by Dan Willis, on Flickr

That'll help a smidge when I lift the body.

Back in the garage. A few more bolts to come off around the radiator and some further connections (steering) before I can commit. Bricks and wood on the way, so hopefully soon I can get on the separation.

Delorean Works-34 by Dan Willis, on Flickr
Delorean Works-36 by Dan Willis, on Flickr

Only then can I catalogue the parts i really need and begin my shopping lists.

Cosmetically, a ton to do:

Delorean Works-18 by Dan Willis, on Flickr
Delorean Works-17 by Dan Willis, on Flickr
Delorean Works-16 by Dan Willis, on Flickr
Delorean Works-14 by Dan Willis, on Flickr
Delorean Works-12 by Dan Willis, on Flickr

[Guinney1971]

fantastic progress, and those dollies look brilliant!

[Dan Willis]

Thanks Claire. Nothing more now until the new year I suspect. Got some other things to take care of...

[Dan Willis]

Back to work on the car; I ran out of time, money and space to continue with the body removal. Particualrly with the garage also housing the bike and Monaro, it would have been foolhardy of me to assume I could do the work and then have safety at the forefront of the project.

Fast forward to last month and after much "umming" and "ahhing", the Monaro went in to long-term storage. Now I have a monthly reminder (i.e. £100) of why the DeLorean needs to get done!

With 4566 having the garage to herself, I got busy. 

I revisited each area I knew to need bolts, earths or pipes removed and found I'd missed a fair bit; the steering knuckle being a bigun! Secondly, the rear piping shrouds underneath would not come off; I had to cut, grind and drill the bolts out over two weekend to ensure they would be clear of the chassis.

Lots more space to work, and half a garage to put the frame:
Delorean work by Dan Willis, on Flickr

Seats out (less weight, more access):
Delorean work by Dan Willis, on Flickr

Unbolting the steering knuckle:
Delorean work by Dan Willis, on Flickr

First job I'd forgotten; bleeding the cluch and removing the pipework:
DeLorean work by Dan Willis, on Flickr
Easy to do, and ensures no mess. Doing this with the inlet on would be a horrible job.

The shrouds hid much of the handbrake cabling, so now they're free to be fed out of the tub:
DeLorean work by Dan Willis, on Flickr

Under the carpet, the two handbrake cables:
DeLorean work by Dan Willis, on Flickr

Air conditioning acculumator is attached the tub, but runs over the frame; leave this connected and something will break, so off it all comes (bone dry.. typical):
DeLorean work by Dan Willis, on Flickr

This is inside the tub (spare wheel well) looking at the rear of the acculumulator; this bolt was a royal pig to undo:
DeLorean work by Dan Willis, on Flickr

Pipes come off and are plugged immediately. UJsfeul? Not really in this case, but for maintenance on "good" system, a must:
DeLorean work by Dan Willis, on Flickr

Then on to some test lifts; front:
DeLorean work by Dan Willis, on Flickr

More in a mo (only 10 pics allowed)....

---

Again front; useful for acc bolts and access (being careful not to tear/rip/break anything else:
DeLorean work by Dan Willis, on Flickr

Rear; take note of the frame bolt and distance to tub, at the top:
DeLorean work by Dan Willis, on Flickr

Again, front, checking clearance (and that damned pipe that just drops out!)
DeLorean work by Dan Willis, on Flickr

And, today: Lifting the tub, as light as I can get it, with wooden planks - using axle stands to hold the body - again, a test to see if it's going to work:
DeLorean work by Dan Willis, on Flickr

Another; stands in place:
DeLorean work by Dan Willis, on Flickr

And finally, bricks lined up ready:
DeLorean work by Dan Willis, on Flickr

So that's that. I need another pair of eyes; I have planks of wood ready and 20 bricks (which may not be enough.. we'll see) and I'm ready to get the frame out. 
After that, I'll move it to the "spare" side of the garage, remove the engine and start stripping the remainder of the frame to have it refurbished. Then, engine, gearbox etc all get the same before I start on the tub. Lots to do, and I'll keep taking pictures!

A couple of notes:

Bag or refit every bolt loose - it'll never make sense otherwise. Label the bags, label any free cables.
Never throw anything out - it might be rubbish, but how do you know to replace it once you've forgotten?
The smaller the bolt, the less likely it'll come loose of it's own accord, or after repeated "oiling". Be prepared to make a mess and fix afterwards.
Use the manuals and other people; this isn't rocket science.
Oh, don't go any further than I did alone; safety first - more eyes, more trolley jacks!

[Chris Williams]

Great stuff, should be finished for Christmas!
Keep up the good work
Chris

[Dan Willis]

Ha, nice one. The frame will be - that's my intent. That, the engine out and in some sort of refurbishment.. but little else. I have to replace the brakes, suspension etc etc - and in all honesty, most of the piping (or anything rubber) is going in the bin so I don't have to revisit it. Expensive game (fun though).

[Dan Willis]

This weekend is the first part of the "proper" body-off piece. It was all going so well...

More DeLorean Body Work by Dan Willis, on Flickr

The body is about 6 inches from being "free" and my friend cut his finger on the stainless. Enough that we spent most of the day in A&E (6 stitches). The body was catching and he decided to give it a light push - it "popped" free and he looked down to see some blood and, well, that was the end of that for today. Sorry Si!

However, the technique is working well; when it's high enough to be supported by wooden planks, the bricks will be pushed out so the wheels can be free to run the body out of the rear. It's been much simpler than I would have thought and look at the frame; the crumple zone is a bit rusty, but otherwise it's in remarkable condition:

More DeLorean Body Work by Dan Willis, on Flickr
More DeLorean Body Work by Dan Willis, on Flickr
More DeLorean Body Work by Dan Willis, on Flickr
More DeLorean Body Work by Dan Willis, on Flickr
More DeLorean Body Work by Dan Willis, on Flickr

If it helps, I'm time-lapsing the whole thing; so here's part 1:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njwZ9X3TrX4

Any questions; feel free to ask. It's not being done quickly, it's being done right

[Chris P]

Well done Dan, keep up the good work. It makes my Auto G/Box removal look very small beer!

[Dan Willis]

Thanks Chris. I spent MONTHS looking at 2-post lifts, but the cost and likely having to have a new floor put done, just made it a pointless act for now. Bricks and wood.. bricks and wood.

More work today; friendless, I made sure the car went up a bit further. The biggest issues are height and safety. Whereas a good clean lift would put the base of the car somewhere around 4ft off the floor, I have to ensure I can stil work on the body (at least the underside) safely when the frame is out. So, I removed the radiator (since the body was high enough now to do so) and the only part that will cause me issue now, is the gear stick. 

Anyone know if that's removable? Hmm.

Finding extra cables, hoses and pipes that need to come away is something I expected; I did hope to remove the battery cables from the tub but time got away with me, so I did the reverse and popped them off the engine instead (and then worked out a safe way of doing the tub, so did both):
More DeLorean Body Work by Dan Willis, on Flickr

They can just be pushed out - rubber and all;
More DeLorean Body Work by Dan Willis, on Flickr

Can't remember what it does? Where is goes? Take a picture; that might save me time later...
More DeLorean Body Work by Dan Willis, on Flickr

With the radiator off - and just resting in front of the frame (due to an airconditioning pipe I don't want to force just yet) you can see all the way through the car - and the top of the gearstick (the highest point the lifting has to clear):
More DeLorean Body Work by Dan Willis, on Flickr

At this point, were it not for the bricks in front of the wheels, it'd come out... almost. It needs to lift another 2/3 inches, but there is still an issue...
More DeLorean Body Work by Dan Willis, on Flickr

See.. an inch or two and it'd be daylight:
More DeLorean Body Work by Dan Willis, on Flickr

I guess the frame is probably solid enough not to refurbish.. but every pipe is rotten enough for me to take it apart, so why not do the lot?
More DeLorean Body Work by Dan Willis, on Flickr

And the, short but sweet, video of today:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gO1avCymjXQ

So, for those who haven't done this; the body needs to come up enough to place wood between the breeze blocks - pushing those blocks out further than the wheels so the frame can be wheeled out (in reverse). That in itself is fairly simple once the body clears the frame; but that gear stick means the wood would hit the stick - so it has to go even higher, or I remove the stick prior. A problem to solve/bridge to cross in a weekend or two I think.

More soon!

[Rissy]

Fascinating!

I'm SO pleased you're getting on with this now.  I remember talking to you about it all in August last year, during one night in the hotel during the Lotus weekend.  We both had the same troubles and concerns.  I for one will be soaking it all in; anything you put up.  photos, videos.  information.  Anything.  It's still my gameplan myself one day.  First step for me though, is buying the house with the double garage.  A goal i'm creeping ever closer to. Keep up the good work. 

[Dan Willis]

Thanks Chris;

Other than space, and remembering where everything goes, I wouldn't worry. It really isn't rocket science to get the body off. I would just say "safety, safety, safety". Without a lift (oh I wish), my method works just fine. But, it's a little unnerving none the less.

Hopefully the body will be free on Sunday - but I have a family wedding that make scupper plans until the bank holiday weekend.

[Rissy]

(16 Aug 2016, 10:22)Dan Willis Wrote: Thanks Chris;

Other than space, and remembering where everything goes, I wouldn't worry. It really isn't rocket science to get the body off. I would just say "safety, safety, safety". Without a lift (oh I wish), my method works just fine. But, it's a little unnerving none the less.

Hopefully the body will be free on Sunday - but I have a family wedding that make scupper plans until the bank holiday weekend.

I'm keen for you to make a list of all the things you have to detach, which hold the body and the chassis together.  It may seem obvious to some, or to all as they do it, but it'd be nice if there was a "check sheet" approach, if you get me.

I'm also keen for you to record the overall height of the roof of the body at the extent off the ground that it reaches as a minimum for you to be able to roll the chassis out from under it.

Finally, I'm having trouble getting my head around how you get from the jacking up stage to the "beams of wood across bricks" or whatever, so that nothing fouls the chassis from rolling out.  Is it just a simple case of jacking up close to the body until the necessary desired height is reached, and then slip your long beams through in between the chassis and the underside of the body, across the jacking points forward and rear of the body, and bridge these with bricks/breeze blocks at such an extent to allow for the wheel width, and then once they're taking the weight, you dismantle the inner jacking assembly next to the body?

I'd love to see all your intricate and intimate pictures, or even better, close up video footage, showing all this done... 

[Dan Willis]

Okay; There are already checklists on the 'net, which I used. They are accurate enough with the exception of the odd wire; usually attached TO the tub but only by means of tie-wrap. Easily removed. I'll make a list if it's helpful.

Height-wise, mine is on dollies, so that adds around 3/4 inches - but I'd rather be able to move it left/right as I pull the chassis, than have it rolling and "catch" anything. I will, however, measure it and take a picture or 7.

Finally, bricks and wood-wise:

1. I started with 4 axle stands and use two trolley jacks *roughly* in the centre of the body, near the seat rails (pictures should show that). The tub is front-heavy, so I've had to adjust and move it forward/backwards to ensure it lifted evenly (and even then, it's twisted slightly to one side as I'm solo-lifting it)
2. I've cut small wooden pucks as "interim" lift heights as the axle stands have fixed holes and the car will either be just shy, or just over, those holes; dropping the entire body down after painstakingly lifting it is not fun
3. When I top-out the stands, I add a single breeze block, and restart the process. I have 20, so that should be sufficient. I also intend to turn those on their side if I need extra height (and double them up)
4. In terms of height, removing the chassis from the rear is the least painful way; the gearstick is the highest point, but I've removed the radiator as it could catch and it's the farthest point, so without it, less to worry about (with the body about a foot up, you can lift the radiator off without much fuss)
5. When the body is proud of the gear stick, I will use the mechanism above to simply build the blocks outside the wheels (width-wise so the chassis can "roll out") and place the wood I have between those blocks. You cannot do this whilst lifting the body because the wood has to be above the chassis, and clear of the gearstick. I would also avoid resting the wood on the chassis since there are pipes and hoses that must be cleared - otherwise, that'd be far easier.

I'll keep taking pics and measuring up as I go.

---

This is one list I used:

- 12 body/frame bolts (including the 2 seat belt bolts)
--- 2 at front shock towers, 4 along the interior center tunnel and 2 seat belt bolts,
--- 2 above the rear shock towers (under shock tower brace), 2 in rear pontoons
*** Make sure to pre-treat all frame bolts, in advance, with PB Blaster or similar

- unbolt (or break off) studs on bottom of radiator sceen grille, to remove shroud
- remove frame grounds from the wiring harness to the frame crumple tube area
- disconnect A/C lines and wiring at passenger front wheel well area
- remove access cover under fuel filler, to gain access to disconnect steering knuckle
- remove access cover over brake master, to gain access to disconnect brake lines
- remove access cover to fuel pump boot area, to diconnect fuel lines and wiring
- disconnect lower speedometer cable at angle drive or at lambda counter under dash

- disconnect Emergency Brake lines (in the interior, under the E-Brake handle)
- remove seats for access to frame bolts along center tunnel and seat belt bolts
- pull back (down) carpet along center tunnel, to gain access to frame bolts

- unbolt (or break off) studs along bottom of rear fascia, to disconnect from support
- remove rear tail lights, to access additional rear closing plate bolts and/or brackets
- disconnect engine cover release cable (if removing rear fascia for refinshing, etc.)
- disconnect rear fascia wiring assembly...while removing rear fascia assembly
- remove rear fascia assembly (with rear closing plate) at the closing plate brackets
- disconnect frame grounds to the rear quarter stainless panels (if still in place)
- remove main grounding wires (brown wires) from engine compartment wiring bracket
- remove any vacuum lines (for mode switch, older aftermarket cruise control, etc.)
* remove throttle cable at throttle spool (on engine) near the rear fascia

- disconnect clutch line
- Front radiator shroud
 - Evaporator Lines
- Heater Core lines
- Steering linkage
- Radiator Fan lines
- Horn lines
- console/shifter area
- Mode switch vacuum lines
- Engine wiring
- Carbon Canister lines
- O2 sensor
- Alternator Power
- Starter Power

---

Ultimately, some things come off at the tub, and some at the frame (it matters not, mostly) and I'd take the path of least resistance. I'd also get a friend and every few inches just check what pipes/cables/wires are still attached. Some are much easier removed as the body comes apart instead of doing it up front.

Start with the obvious stuff; seats out - frame bolts. Then move on to things you can see and get to - steering knuckle, fuel lines, etc. Then as it comes apart, attack the Air Conditioning, radiator and sensor wires. It'll be harder putting back together I think!

[Rissy]

Quite a lot to consider eh! Once you start thinking about it all.

When I was sizing up the car last summer, thinking i'd be beginning a body off job this year some time, I reckoned I'd need a headroom height of about 88 inches (2.24 metres), from floor to height of roof at the point where it would be clear to roll the chassis out. It'll be interesting to find out if I was far off or not...

Since i've had my engine cradle repaired this year, with everything in situ, and with my continued efforts on the accessible and view-able areas of the chassis, my thinking now is that hopefully I'll not need to consider a chassis off job for some years now. But there's still that niggle inside me which says I need to get the whole thing done properly. Ultimately, it's a case of prioritization and budget. I first need the garage to do the job, so I need the house with the garage so that I have my own space to do it, at my own pace and without inconveniencing anyone else while I do it. So my budget first has to go on the bigger more expensive house, with the bigger bills and a mortgage. Then eventually down the line, once I can find myself with an available budget, can I go headlong into the job. This of course is all a matter of years, rather than months. I'll get there.