03 Sep 2010, 00:04
Thanks all,
Just in from an evening of battling with it. It seems spark erosion might have been the best way to get it out, and I found a place in Sheffield which would do it for £20 setup plus whatever additional costs. Not too bad, but would have still involved pulling the head off. Unfortunately there wasn;t much left of any threads at the top to use a shortened stud - not enough thread remaining for comfort, anyway.
So I thought I'd have a crack with a carbide cutter, a whole set of Dremel diamond burring tools, three or four tiny Dremel grinding stones and a set of gas bottles. Well, after four hours I now have a hole 17.5mm deep, and thankfully hasn't opened up to much more than 8mm diameter. (Stock stud holes seem to be about 22mm deep). And all the above tools are broken.
Anyway, it's reasonably straight and parallel. Next step is to tap it out to M10, and make a special 'stepped' exhaust stud which is 16.5mm of M10x1.5, then steps down to stock 7mm dia. for 10mm then 10mm of M7x1.0 to put the nut on. If I snap the M10 tap in there I'm going to go and live in a kibbutz in Australia.
So, if all goes to plan, no adaptation of the manifold!
The other thought I had re. manifold was to mill off say 4mm off the mating face of that port, then make a 4mm thick adapter plate to allow the 'spare' studs to be used, and attach that to the milled face of the manifold using countersunk M5's or similar, and weld all round the outside.
Anyway, all being well, it won't come to that - but watch this space!
I managed to succesfully extract some of another snapped stud (which thankfully was only standard mild steel, not tool steel, of course). The hole opened up a bit, but not too much to be able to helicoil it with my brand new helicoilsing kit off of that there Ebay what they have nowadays.
Thanks all!
R (no smiley available with a 'tentatively happy' expression...)
Just in from an evening of battling with it. It seems spark erosion might have been the best way to get it out, and I found a place in Sheffield which would do it for £20 setup plus whatever additional costs. Not too bad, but would have still involved pulling the head off. Unfortunately there wasn;t much left of any threads at the top to use a shortened stud - not enough thread remaining for comfort, anyway.
So I thought I'd have a crack with a carbide cutter, a whole set of Dremel diamond burring tools, three or four tiny Dremel grinding stones and a set of gas bottles. Well, after four hours I now have a hole 17.5mm deep, and thankfully hasn't opened up to much more than 8mm diameter. (Stock stud holes seem to be about 22mm deep). And all the above tools are broken.
Anyway, it's reasonably straight and parallel. Next step is to tap it out to M10, and make a special 'stepped' exhaust stud which is 16.5mm of M10x1.5, then steps down to stock 7mm dia. for 10mm then 10mm of M7x1.0 to put the nut on. If I snap the M10 tap in there I'm going to go and live in a kibbutz in Australia.
So, if all goes to plan, no adaptation of the manifold!
The other thought I had re. manifold was to mill off say 4mm off the mating face of that port, then make a 4mm thick adapter plate to allow the 'spare' studs to be used, and attach that to the milled face of the manifold using countersunk M5's or similar, and weld all round the outside.
Anyway, all being well, it won't come to that - but watch this space!
I managed to succesfully extract some of another snapped stud (which thankfully was only standard mild steel, not tool steel, of course). The hole opened up a bit, but not too much to be able to helicoil it with my brand new helicoilsing kit off of that there Ebay what they have nowadays.
Thanks all!
R (no smiley available with a 'tentatively happy' expression...)
Richard Hanlon
Derbyshire
DOC 393
1981 DMC-12 VIN 06126
Derbyshire
DOC 393
1981 DMC-12 VIN 06126