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Click-crunch-lurch noise from rear
#1
On Saturday whist out in the car, a noise and an accompanying sudden vibration developed one the car.  I've no idea what it is and have yet to investigate.  The noise, which is like a strained metallic click/crunch type noise happens when going round roundabouts. The click comes when turning left, then the crunch happens when immediately turning right again, except the crunch is accompanied by a corresponding "lurch" feeling of the rear end.  It's quite disconcerting.  I'm wondering if it's trailing arm related, as this is what it feels like.  Anyone had this before in the past at all?
Rissy
(Forum Member 288)
(DOC Member 663)

May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
Grey, Flapped, Black
Chassis: #1073
Engine: #2839

Main Car(s):
2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue
2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
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#2
Get underneath and start pulling and shaking stuff. I wouldn't drive it till you've sorted it. Wheels..drive-shafts, suspension etc..
Chris Parnham

Ex RHD Auto's etc.etc

Main Car.. Kia E Niro 4+
Skoda Yetil 4X4.
Toyota Vitz 4X4 1999 (the smallest 4X4 by far!.
1970 Jago Jeep.

DOC Club Historian 
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#3
You have most of my suggestions on cookiebook,  May be worth asking/bribing Rich/Andy to come down for a second opinion?
Chris
Membership Secretary DOC UK
2021's DeLorean event: http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthr...p?tid=6056
VIN#15768 Ex VIN#4584
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#4
While we are on the subject of horrible noises

......The  diff on my Auto EXPLODED a couple of years ago, can I suggest  that anyone with an Auto, check the oil level in their Diff. Its separate and I didn't realise that. Mine must have been low from new and had only done 10k miles......but it was major drama....check you auto diff oil level folks! Could save a whole heap of agro. Angry
Chris Parnham

Ex RHD Auto's etc.etc

Main Car.. Kia E Niro 4+
Skoda Yetil 4X4.
Toyota Vitz 4X4 1999 (the smallest 4X4 by far!.
1970 Jago Jeep.

DOC Club Historian 
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#5
Just to update this thread, I've been rummaging around under the car for the past three nights now.

I've fully pushed and pulled everything, and also undone both my TABs and exercised them both and then torqued them back up.

I was happy with everything and then last night a spotted something a bit a obvious.

PO had not put washers on to the lower shock mount bolt.

This, over time, as well as allowing about a 2cm length of bolt gap to allow the shock to move, has also torn up and deteriorated the rubber.

I suspect that over time, as the rubber has deteriorated, it has allowed more and more movement from the shock, leading to the point where it has started banging noticeably.

I actually can't believe it's taken me 9yrs to notice this, but I've just never had any need to remove the rear shocks yet, so I've never touched them.

All of this is theory of course, but I've now put some washers on there and tightened up the bolt to squeeze the shock into a pretty close matching position the same as the other side.

My next stage is to take the car for a drive and see if the issue is resolved now or not.  The shocks are being replaced soon.  I have new ones sat in the house waiting for me to refurbish my rear end, which I was planning to start doing after this summer anyway.

So although the current ones don't look too happy, they only have to last me at most another 300 miles or so.

Anyway, I took pictures.  I'll report back my findings after the test drive.  Fingers crossed.


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Rissy
(Forum Member 288)
(DOC Member 663)

May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
Grey, Flapped, Black
Chassis: #1073
Engine: #2839

Main Car(s):
2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue
2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
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#6
Failed.

I took the car for a test drive last night and confirmed, despite all my best efforts throughout all this week, my problem is still there, and it's getting worse too. I'm getting to my wits end with it now. This, and my continual insistence in my accelerator getting stuck and holding idle artificially too high all the time. (but this is a different topic for another day)

Back to my rear end noise:

Someone on Farsebook posted this link up as a suggestion, so I want to try this next. It would make sense considering the extra long dry spell of weather we've been suffering lately.

Can anyone assist in explaining to me where exactly i'm supposed to be spraying grease though, as these instructions don't make it clear. Looking at this, i'm just supposed to spray it all around, without actually getting it "in" anywhere!?

Also, i have white lithium, silicone and PTFE spray grease. Do you think one of these would do in place of the advised Teflon stuff? If this attempt doesn't work, then the only thing left in my view is to strip off the drive shafts from the car and rebuild them, and possibly replace CV joints, which gets expensive....and considering the car has only done 37k miles.

Link: http://lukesandel.com/auto/delorean/repa...clunk.html
Rissy
(Forum Member 288)
(DOC Member 663)

May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
Grey, Flapped, Black
Chassis: #1073
Engine: #2839

Main Car(s):
2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue
2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
Reply
#7
It all sounds plausible enough, but not something I've encountered before.

I'm a big fan of Waxoyl and WD 40 and spray it liberally on more or less anything underneath. (except brake discs and exhausts of course) I was dong it only yesterday under my 2015 Mitsubishi Outlander Plug in, as I was changing the wheels around and inspecting the brakes. I can't bare to see 'Dry or rusty bits' anywhere . It also lubricates rubber bushes etc. and keeps them supple. 

Whether it is part of your problem Chris, I wouldn't like to say. Blush
Chris Parnham

Ex RHD Auto's etc.etc

Main Car.. Kia E Niro 4+
Skoda Yetil 4X4.
Toyota Vitz 4X4 1999 (the smallest 4X4 by far!.
1970 Jago Jeep.

DOC Club Historian 
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#8
Hope you get it sorted Rissy, surprised your MOT man never flagged it up, as he sounded quite a stickler for things.
Claire Wright  - Club Treasurer
Jul 1981 DeLorean - Flopsy #2292 
Aug 1989 Cavalier 1.6L - Guinney
Apr 2021 Mokka-e Launch Edition - Evie
#170
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