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As I have the box out just now, I'm doing what needs done while its on the floor.
The selector shaft has always had a slight weep, and the rubber bellows have definitely seen better days.
To replace to seal on the shift selector shaft, I take it I have to remove the end casing from the box.
Can anyone tell me of any problems with removing that cover? Nothing is going to leap out is it? Or necessitate any further work?
From the diagrams, will I need to replace 2x roll pins to reassemble?
Other than this seal (and of course the paper gasket), is there anything else to replace when that casing is off? I take it the notorious 2nd gear roll pin requires splitting the 2 case halfs?? I am simply not doing that, but I do want to get rid of the little drip from the shift shaft while the box is out.
Cheers
andy
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I have the same leak.
I got the replacement seals ready, but the garage I take the car to, refused to remove the end cover to do the job. Their fear was the same as yours.
I've since talked to people and been reassured that removing the end cup is ok. Nothing is due to ping out as a result. But you do have to pull it away slowly I believe. (Not sure of the reason now)
I believe that the disassembling of the selector shaft is a bit fiddely and there is a smal spring which can ping away if not careful. It's necessary to replace the seal though because it's replaced from the inside, out.
Good luck!
I'd love to see pictures of this operation, stage by stage, or even better, a video, since I still need to do this myself since the garage refuses to... Pretty please, with a cherry on top. :wink:
Rissy
(Forum Member 288)
(DOC Member 663)
May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
Grey, Flapped, Black
Chassis: #1073
Engine: #2839
Main Car(s):
2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue
2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
Posts: 112
Threads: 18
Joined: Oct 2010
I am not sure that it can be done without dropping the box, so I'd probably wait until you're changing the clutch.
I figured I didn't tust a garage to change the clutch (Well, they would do I'm sure, but maybe not do the job in a way with which I was happy) so figured I had to do it myself.
Plus I didn't know what flavour of clutch was in it (early car) so really needed to sort this one myself. It also lets me do all seals, bearings, rebuild the joints, yada yada at my own pace.
Anyone who has done this (or otherwise opened up a UN1) able to shed any light? Specifically
andyd Wrote:From the diagrams, will I need to replace 2x roll pins to reassemble?
Other than this seal (and of course the paper gasket), is there anything else to replace when that casing is off? I take it the notorious 2nd gear roll pin requires splitting the 2 case halfs??
Thanks for any insight!
andy
Posts: 112
Threads: 18
Joined: Oct 2010
Rissy,
My project is not a fast one, I hope to get the rear end done by summer but thats about as much as I can hope for.
These may be useful for you tho -->
[ATTACHMENT NOT FOUND]
(admittedly this is a 6 speed box)
[ATTACHMENT NOT FOUND][ATTACHMENT NOT FOUND]
(think above is a standard)
a
Posts: 112
Threads: 18
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 112
Threads: 18
Joined: Oct 2010
And of course the UN1 service manual is considerably more useful than the DMC Workshop manual!!
a
Posts: 1,746
Threads: 119
Joined: Aug 2009
I'm a patient man Andy. I don't want excuses, just the pictures, or even better yet, the video(s).
My gearbox will be leaking from this place for some time yet. I have no immediate plans to fix that this year.
...so, in your own time. (Please) :wink:
Rissy
(Forum Member 288)
(DOC Member 663)
May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
Grey, Flapped, Black
Chassis: #1073
Engine: #2839
Main Car(s):
2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue
2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
