Melted fuse holder - Printable Version +- The DeLorean Owners Club UK Forum (http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum) +-- Forum: DELOREAN HELP AND ADVICE & PARTS CROSS REFERENCE (http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=4) +--- Forum: 3 - Electrical (http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=15) +--- Thread: Melted fuse holder (/showthread.php?tid=35) Pages:
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Melted fuse holder - Tourettes Tony - 17 Aug 2006 When i first got my car that fateful day 2 years ago , i noticed the fuse for the fuel pump had been replaced by one of those external ones, and it had got rather hot. Last night when i went out i could smell a burning smell and it was coming from the same fuse. I replaced it and it seems to be ok again. Is this a common problem or do i own the only self igniting De :? cheers all Tony TT - NickT - 17 Aug 2006 Tony, what do you mean external. Does this external fuse connect in the original fuse box or have the wires been snipped from under the fusebox and a new insulated in-line fuse been inserted? - Birksie - 17 Aug 2006 Melty fusebox's are a common thing Tony. Poor design. And as Nick was probably about to mention is that the offending "Hot" fuse should be completely taken off the fuse board, and instead cut the wires from the back of the board and replace inbetween with a "High Quality" fuse holder. Even Better still, replace the whole board with one from Special T Autos. http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/electrical-2.html - NickT - 17 Aug 2006 Birksie you beat me to it ! - Tourettes Tony - 17 Aug 2006 Yes its already been done twice, so in short its a common fault i feel better now cheers my friends Tony TT chairman of the left wing guinea pig party :lol: - ChrisS - 17 Aug 2006 Thing is you are dealing with the prince of darkness, i.e. the Lucas wiring loom!! The electrical bay is working at its limits and does work OK when everything is 110%, which means regular maintence ...replace the fuses, as the contacts get tarnished, and ensure you have a good clean tight fit on all fuse and relay sockets. I have said before this should be part of your monthly checks and replace the fuses yearly as they cost a LOT less than a new fuse box! And ideally address the 'fan fail' issue, there are now several choices (when I installed my fan fail there was only once choice...Fan Zilla) The Choices are... (in my current order of preference ) 1. PJ Grady Fan Fix - Replacement for the Fan Zilla. Not got a lot of info but if Rob Grady backs it then its good enough for me. 2. Baker Electronics DeLorean Dual Fan Control - Maybe Mike can comment, http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7erz1/id1.html#ddfcmod 3. Fan Zilla - Been unavailable for years, if your lucky you might find one. http://www.pjgrady.com/lgspec.asp?id=8 4. Joe Cool - This unit appear at the DeLorean car show this year in Chicago, you can get more info from Joe Kuchan - josephkuchan@hotmail.com 5. Special T Fan Fail Fix - Have heard that its not uncommon for the relays to 'stick' in this unit. http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-pa ... tions.html As far as I understand all units stager the cooling fans comming on (execpt the Special T auto Fan Fix) which helps reduce load on the relay compartment. Out of intrest Tony have you replaced your fuel pump? - bozzzydmc - 18 Aug 2006 Funny enough i was reading this type of problem the other day on the DML, I have reposted this here. As has already been said nice clean contacts are essential and if you do have to replace with an in line fuse holder get a correctly rated 'quality' one. I quite like the look of those modular relay / fuse racks that can be bought nowadays. http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.u ... elays.html Modular fuse and relay housing system. Quote:- The blades of those 'hard candy' fuses are aluminum. They will develop an oxide coating fairly quickly. Normally, this is good because the coating protects the rest of the piece from deterioration, which iron oxide does not. When aluminum is used in electical applications, this causes a problem because aluminum oxide does not conduct nearly as well as metallic aluminum itself. The oxide causes resistance at the connection. Resistance equals heat. We see, then, the phenomenon of a fuse position melting apart with the fuse still intact. The remedy is to clean, or better, change the fuses regularly. The fuel pump runs through fuse #7. This means very high current in this circuit all the time the engine is running. As the fuse blades oxidize, the resistance, and therefore the heat increases. Soon enough, what ever holds the fuse, well-fuses. If you want to replace the fuse holder, you should be able to get one at a good parts house, NAPA say. If you want to replace the fuse box, we have new ones Warren at DMC - bozzzydmc - 18 Aug 2006 [quote="ChrisS"] The Choices are... (in my current order of preference ) 1. PJ Grady Fan Fix - Replacement for the Fan Zilla. Not got a lot of info but if Rob Grady backs it then its good enough for me. quote] Choices, choices..... Be nice to see a pic of this Grady unit sometime, and some details on the gubbins inside. I still like my 'Baker' unit, works for me. - ChrisS - 18 Aug 2006 Oh and if you have a fuse box cover, don’t use it!! just keep it in the relay compartment for reference….and so you don’t loose it :wink: Interestingly enough I had a discussion with Rob Grady about this, and he said one of the main melting points are the (ATC) blade fuses on the Fan Fail link. He prefers the conventional cartridge fuses as used by Fan zilla and I think the Joe Cool unit: - Tourettes Tony - 18 Aug 2006 Yes Chris it had a new pump, and i done a bodge just to get me home and now it seems ok i'v just got to fit new fuse holders cheers tony TT - ChrisS - 18 Aug 2006 Tourettes Tony Wrote:Yes Chris it had a new pump, and i done a bodge just to get me home and now it seems ok i'v just got to fit new fuse holders I would check everything on that circuit, if an inline fuse is still blowing. I wondered if you had an old pump that has seen better days and is pulling to much current. I would try to find the cause. Make sure that it a decent fuse holder and the crimps are very tight...and there should be no solder. - NickT - 18 Aug 2006 Good tips there Chris, Can I add that if a crimp connection is to be used then use a PROPER crimp tool (the ratchet type) as I have seen some the just pull apart with fingertips. Not very good. - Tourettes Tony - 18 Aug 2006 Well thanks for that my friends, the fuse howeber doesn't blow it just gets very hot it has lasted for about a year, but why no solder? chris cheers tony tt - davesandell - 18 Aug 2006 I would think that the contacts get hot enough to melt any solder that might be there? Thus making a mess, and damaging other items around it? - ChrisS - 18 Aug 2006 Tourettes Tony Wrote:Well thanks for that my friends, the fuse howeber doesn't blow it just gets very hot it has lasted for about a year, but why no solder? chris As you said it gets very hot, hot enough to melt solder !?, as David mentioned, solder melts and either the fans stop completely or your relay compartment catches on fire ... not good |