+- The DeLorean Owners Club UK Forum (http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum)
+-- Forum: DELOREAN HELP AND ADVICE & PARTS CROSS REFERENCE (http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=4)
+--- Forum: 2 - Emission / Fuel Systems (http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=14)
+--- Thread: C.P.R (/showthread.php?tid=3449)
C.P.R - Martyn - 12 May 2012
www.warmupregulatorrepair.php
Re: C.P.R - stunned_monkey - 13 May 2012
Link doesn't work (or make sense - a php extension is an element of a website, not a website extension)
Re: C.P.R - stunned_monkey - 13 May 2012
I'm pretty sure you can use this one
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/saab-99-bosch-0-438- ... 0395099274
You'll need to swap the bottom bit across from yours.
Re: C.P.R - Rich H - 13 May 2012
Nope. No vent on the top case
Re: C.P.R - Rich H - 13 May 2012
I've been doing a lot of research on CPRs over the past week.
I'm currently working on some sort of rig to test these out and refurbish them. There seems to be very little to go wrong with them.
Basically there are five 'types'. The one fitted to the DeLorean is 'Type 5' Part Number: 0 438 140 066
What sets it apart are the two heating 'resistors' inside. One is rated at 35Ohms, the other 37Ohms
However there are some other 'Type 5' models out there which could be substituted if you swap your resistors over, and even more if you swap the whole bottom vacuum section over too.
'Type 5' CPRs :
0 438 140 067 - Volvo
0 438 140 068 - Mercedes Benz
0 438 140 079 - Volvo (slightly different bi metal strip, which wouldn't matter if you swapped it over with your originals)
0 438 140 094 - Audi 5000
0 438 140 095 - Audi 5000
0 438 140 123 - Volvo
Basically if it looks the same externally, then you can simply swap the bottom half of your CPR with the replacement and it should work.
I have been running my D on a 0 438 140 088 with my original CPR bottom half since I've had the car without any issues.
Hopefully this info will open up our limited options on the CPR front, and potentially save some money too
You read it here first folks 8)
Re: C.P.R - stunned_monkey - 13 May 2012
Are you any the wiser as to what actually fails, given what we saw last week?
Re: C.P.R - Rich H - 13 May 2012
Yes. It has to be dirt in the pressure valve. It has to be scrupulously clean. Simply blasting out with cleaner won't do it.
I've not worked out a method to achieve that yet, but I have some ideas...
If you can get 1.5 bar with the valve alone, i.e without the bottom half of the CPR, then the rest can be adjusted, just as the factory did it...
The pressure valves are the same in all the models, they simply tune the CPR to whatever it needs to be
Re: C.P.R - Rissy - 14 May 2012
....it's maybe just me, but....
What's a C.P.R? What's a warm up regulator? Where is it? What does it do?
....And also, what happened last week??
Re: C.P.R - Chris Williams - 14 May 2012
Quote:What's a C.P.R?Control pressure regulator
Quote:Where is it?left hand rocker cover looking from rear of engine
Quote:What does it do?havent a clue :lol: (well I do, but my version of it's use!)
Quote:And also, what happened last week??meeting of minds I'm guessing, you know funny handshakes and all that :wink: (only kidding Rich)
Chris
Re: C.P.R - Martyn - 14 May 2012
Cheers Rich for that.Been looking into it myself.
I had mine apart again this weekend.
When I un screwed the disc the rubber seal didn't look like it had been sitting in properly.It might have popped out when putting the back plate back on.
Anyway I blasted it out with half a can of 600ml electrical contact cleaner and it seems to be alot more happier.
Re: C.P.R - jamespi - 15 Jun 2014
Mine is definately not working properly, if at all. I have to start the car 3 or 4 times then keep tapping the accelerator to stop it dying, but after about 30 seconds or so it starts to just about idle like a bag of crap, and I can press the pedal and hold it to rev the engine up. Then if I hold the revs up for another 20 or 30 seconds while the engine warms up, at settles down and runs sweet as a nut after that.
I have attached a pressure gauge between the top of the fuel districutor and the input to the CPR, and the person who was with me said the when i was fiddling about with the accelerator to stop the engine dying the pressure was wildly lunging between 15 and 70 PSI, and once the engine was running smoothly I saw it stabilised at around 60 PSI.
I don't know if this is normal.
Re: C.P.R - stunned_monkey - 19 Jun 2014
EDIT: See other topic