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+--- Thread: Removing Stock Manifold.... questions (/showthread.php?tid=288)
Removing Stock Manifold.... questions - Outatime - 26 Jan 2007
Dear All,
How big is the chance that the original studs could be reused when removing for the first time in 25 years? (i.e. what's the chance that the 12 will not snap)
And if I do decide to use new studs, but only 12 of them attached to the unused inserts, will it be sufficient to keep exhaust gas from leaking?
Or is it best to put another 12 new studs in the original inserts... totaling 24 studs?
Thanks for any help in advance!
- stunned_monkey - 26 Jan 2007
CHANGE ALL STUDS WHEN YOU HAVE THE CHANCE.
I've worked on several cars where someone did it the "easy way" in the past. Original studs tend to snap flush with the manifold and can be extracted. Re-used studs snap off flush with the head. I would not try drilling them out in situe because even if successful, you tend to damage the threads to the point of not being able to apply a decent torque on the new ones.
Re: Removing Stock Manifold.... questions - bozzzydmc - 26 Jan 2007
Outatime Wrote:Dear All,
How big is the chance that the original studs could be reused when removing for the first time in 25 years? (i.e. what's the chance that the 12 will not snap)
And if I do decide to use new studs, but only 12 of them attached to the unused inserts, will it be sufficient to keep exhaust gas from leaking?
Or is it best to put another 12 new studs in the original inserts... totaling 4 studs?
Thanks for any help in advance!
4 on each exhaust port would be ideal , but if you do shear a few of then a minimum of two on each will be just fine.
I would order 24 of these along with your gaskets etc from Ed at the same time
Heat - deloreand - 26 Jan 2007
Hi John
The best way to get the old studs out is heat, I made them red hot and let it cool down. than wd40 on it and heat it for the second time.
Now the nuts coming off, and if one brake, take an m7 nut and weld it on the left part, take a hammer and hit it. The shock will brake the rust and it will come out. I have till now 100% succes with this.
Regards Ed Uding
www.deloreaneurope.com
- Craig Churchill - 26 Jan 2007
My dad and i got the left side off without breaking a stud
However i sprayed them with wd40 and liquid wrench everyday for nearly 2 weeks!!!!
Many Thanks
Craig
Re: Heat - Outatime - 26 Jan 2007
deloreand Wrote:Hi John
The best way to get the old studs out is heat, I made them red hot and let it cool down. than wd40 on it and heat it for the second time.
Now the nuts coming off, and if one brake, take an m7 nut and weld it on the left part, take a hammer and hit it. The shock will brake the rust and it will come out. I have till now 100% succes with this.
Regards Ed Uding
www.deloreaneurope.com
Thanks for the advise... But I seems to remember reading from somewhere saying that we shouldn't use heat to take off the studs as our engine block is made of aluminium?
And isn't WD40 Flammable?
But it will be a while before I gets my hands on doing this though....
- Outatime - 26 Jan 2007
Craig Churchill Wrote:My dad and i got the left side off without breaking a stud
However i sprayed them with wd40 and liquid wrench everyday for nearly 2 weeks!!!!
Many Thanks
Craig
Right, I will try the same then :wink:
Anyone tried Hammerite Rust Remover for the same job? Will it be better? Or.... worst?
Re: Removing Stock Manifold.... questions - Outatime - 26 Jan 2007
bozzzydmc Wrote:I would order 24 of these along with your gaskets etc from Ed at the same time
Yep, Just done that :wink: Thanks for the advise!
- ChrisS - 26 Jan 2007
Personally I would avoid heat, unless you are an expert like Ed
. It takes experience to get the right amount of heat otherwise you will cause more damage.This way has always worked well for me...
1. As mentioned soak the studs in lots of WD40 for days or even weeks before
2. Purchase a proper 7mm roller type stud extractor (don't use a 6mm and hammer it on!). I brought a Facom one, stock no 287B.7
http://www.pro.facom.fr/webextranet/ima ... 001744.jpg
3. Using a 11mm socket on the nut, try to undo the nut only putting enough force on it as if it were almost new
4. Keeping the force on, get a hammer and tap the end of the socket closest to the nut and just keep tapping away until (hopefully) it starts to undo - Quite often you will find the nut and stud come out together
5. If you have a difficult nut / stud then take your time & keep stopping, adding some WD40 and also sometimes it helps to screw it back in a turn adding more WD40 and then unscrew.
6. Repeat this 6 times until all the nuts are off and then using the, expensive
, stud extractor on the remaining studs using the same drill as per the nuts...pressure and tap away Give that a go, has always worked for me, quite often I found that the end of the stud that was in the engine was still almost new
And of course cant stress enough get your manifolds resurfaced and clean your heads up as much as possible, uness you like to do this job with you oil changes
- steve.s - 28 Jan 2007
must admit, i don't find WD40 much good.
prefer proper release oil over days.
also should the area aound be heated (to expand the base metal)?