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+--- Forum: 2 - Emission / Fuel Systems (http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=14)
+--- Thread: CPR bodge (/showthread.php?tid=216)
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- bozzzydmc - 03 Jan 2007
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 67498&rd=1
Persude him to ship to the UK....
- Rottbott - 17 Feb 2007
Well,
Last night the car started perfectly after fixing a gearshift problem, despite being very cold and wet. This morning it fails to start again, even on a freshly charged battery, so I thought it would be a good chance to try some of the suggestions:
Holding down the air flap thingy made no noticeable difference (it seemed to be moving up and down a fair bit on its own actually).
Temporarily plugging the grey plug into the blue socket didn't make any difference to starting the car, but a while afterwards while cranking I noticed a strong petrol smell, which suggests to me that it probably isn't fuel related in any way. Clearly it had fuel going in, it just wasn't going bang.
Since I wasn't getting any bangs whatsoever I'm discounting spark plugs/leads, since all 6 wouldn't fail at once. I'm thinking 'coil' at this point. Previously the problem seemed strongly related to the air temperature, but I'm not so sure now. Is there any way I can test it before I go buying new parts all over the place?
Edit: Wait, is a new coil REALLY just $40? That's cheaper than the cover over it. Should I just replace it and the leads regardless?
- NickT - 17 Feb 2007
Test for resistance across the smaller leads 1 and +15, 1 and ht connectot, and 15 and ht connector then post results back here.
Check you get 9v at 15 on the coil with the ignition on.
The blade connectors on the ceramic resistors can get a bit Rich so check them.
NickT.
- Rottbott - 17 Feb 2007
I'll have to buy a multimeter. I'll make a new thread in electrical when I get one. By ceramic resistors do you mean the giant ones next to the engine bay light switch?
- NickT - 17 Feb 2007
yes