(19 Apr 2021, 12:09)Rich Hanlon Wrote: Welcome Simon!.  It sounds like between the vendor and Chris you will have a wealth of experience in looking over the common trouble spots involved with recomissioning work and Uk-ifying the Delorean to meet spec over here.    Main things for UK spec are related to headlights and foglights, all of which are readily doable. The good thing about these forums is that they're easily searchable on many of the issues people encounter have been documented and over come before.  Fuel systems don't always take too kindly to standing for a long time if your car has been laid up for a period, but again there are quite specific things so probably better to see if there are any specific queries that emerge.

Depending on how much work is required you may well be in time to join in some of the summer events planned - have a look at the the forthcoming events section. There's a nice rebate for DOC club members on attending the summer event at Silverstone, which will almost cover the first year's membership fees so that's well worth a look if you wish to join up!

All the best - do you have any pictures you can share?

Here are some pictures received from Mike at Delorean midwest it clearly needs some work but it runs and drives, some work done to brake system a further appraisal when they get it in to the workshop. Chris is going to complete a full re grain and minor dent removal when it arrives to the UK 

Simon 

(19 Apr 2021, 17:10)Rich Hanlon Wrote: I guess as with all these things it boils down to budget, time versus money, and what you're looking for - a rescue, a project, a drive 'n' improve, or a fully finished article.

If possible I'd want to see pics of the underside of the frame.  Front extension and rear engine cradle in particular.   They are never better than they look, only worse, and sometimes, much worse.  

Frame-off jobs are doable domestically with general mechanic's experience, but expensive and time consuming.  I should have bitten the bullet several years before I did mine, as it would have saved lots of time in the end.

Quote:1 thing with the current guy I am in contact with owns DMC midwest so he knows his stuff 

(19 Apr 2021, 18:52)Chris Williams Wrote:

Quote:1 thing with the current guy I am in contact with owns DMC midwest so he knows his stuff 

He does, always worth a second opinion however. Pictures speak a 1000 words as they say. Difficult to say about the two cars I'm guessing the first one is a non runner? the second is a runner?
Chris

Quote:Hi Chris I have just sent you a email to see if you know of any cars for sale in the UK?

Back to the US cars, 1st one is described as a runner but needs work 2nd car is described as a good car great driver good steering brakes and frame this is from mike at DMC Mid west

(19 Apr 2021, 20:45)Chris Williams Wrote:

Quote:Hi Chris I have just sent you a email to see if you know of any cars for sale in the UK?

Back to the US cars, 1st one is described as a runner but needs work 2nd car is described as a good car great driver good steering brakes and frame this is from mike at DMC Mid west

Short answer to the email is no, most seem to be going through auctions and fetching big money.

It's difficult to advise another person on buying a used car, one persons idea of what's 'do-able' varies from another. It's also down to what you can do yourself or will you have to pay someone to do the work?? Interior trim can soak up a lot of cash. Is the frame solid on both cars? The cost's can mount up but also may not be to bad depending on what would need doing to the cheaper one to get it to the standard you want.
If there as anything specific you want advise on just drop a comment on hear or drop me an email direct.
Chris

(20 Apr 2021, 10:55)Stuart Rees Wrote: Welcome to the forum Simon, Exciting times ahead!

As the cars turn 40 years old the main areas to look at are obviously the frame condition especially the front frame extension and behind the triangular fuel tank plate. Leaking brake fluid can lift the epoxy in these areas and allow corrosion. The roof box under the stainless T panel can corrode in non dry states (The first car you posted seems to have an odd T panel alignment) The other main area is fuel lines, replacing the rubber ones for SS ones is straight forward but I've just experienced a ruptured fuel return hard line that runs between the body and frame. It was corroded and was quite a job to replace.

If your budget allows, I would go for the better of the two.
The cheaper one could end up costing more than 10K to sort.

Best of luck,
Stu