Hi all,

I just got my gear shift pivot bolt fixed so I can drive my car again (hooray!), but in the process I discovered that the bonnet release has also broken with no warning, it just moves freely without unlatching. When I first got my car Martin put in a backup wire for when this happened, but unfortunately the problem seems to be with the latch itself rather than a snapped cable because that wire also won't work, and it just pulled straight out without doing anything .

To make it worse I have the flat bonnet with no fuel flap, so I have no way to refuel the car until I can get in there. So my question is, how can I break into my own car's luggage compartment without breaking it? I'm sure I'm not the first to have this problem!

Hi

If i remove the big metal triangle coverin the fuel tank will the tank fall on my head?

how is the tank held in?

many thanks

Craig

Ok here goes

I took my dash apart today to start my new stereo project. Once finished I put everything back together the way it was before (or so i thought)

I have lockzilla and when you lock or unlock the car it flashes all the outside lights and lights up the headlight switch, hazard switch and the instrument cluster/speedo etc. This keeps all these lights on for about 30 seconds and then switches them off. Usualy once I put the key in and turn the headlights on the speedo lights up and the headlight/hazard lights up too. So once I had the dash back together I switched on the headlight switch to test it and it didnt light up nor did it turn on the dash lights - it did turn on the headlights but it ALWAYS turns on the little bulb in the switch and the hazard the funny thing is that it still turns on when I lock or unlock the car, so if it can do it then why cant it do it when I actually press the switch in??

Every other light works including headlights and breaks so why does this not work?? Rheostat WAS working when I took the dash apart but there isnt even any power going to the rheostat as I have tested the wires running to it with a multimeter and tried to connect them both together but this does not work. All the warning lights on the binacle work just not the lights controled by the rheostat. When I first put the headlight switch back in I remember it lighting up when I pressed it on, it was only when I went to reconnect the rheostat that it all stopped working.

Where does the power come from to control the rheostat and light up the dash and the headlight/hazard light as I feel I have blown a fuse or pulled a wire out, but how does it still work with the lockzilla????

IDEAS PLEASE!!!!!
p.s ALL FUSES INTACT IN FUSE BOX (checked them first)

Can any one tell me the part # of the oil pressure switch, mine has decided to drip all over my nice clean floor :lol:
Love Tony TT

Hello.

When I was looking over the engine compartment, shortly after I got the car, a mechanic friend and I noticed this:


The two should be joined by a small tube.

Can anybody tell me what difference not having the tube fitted will make to the running of the car?



It's only a little thing, but i thought I'd ask around first before I shell out for a 2" piece of tubing :p

cheers m' dears. :lol:
Barzo

Hello

What times of the year does our magazine get published.

James

Hi all

Planning a hidden ICE install in the car and need an old radio harness off the back of a Craig radio...

If anyone has an old Craig radio that is beyond repair can you let me know as I would like to cut the harness off the back for my project.

Simply I am going to fit a stereo behind the drivers seat in the cubby hole and still leave my woking Craig in the dash still hooked up to power so that the clock still works. With the cut off harness from an old Craig I dont have to cut into the original wiring.

The functionality of both switches is good. Fuse is good and so are the bulbs, but the hazard switch rarely illuminates.

The headlamp switch always lit up reliably and then I took out the bulb, installed the correct LED replacement, no light. Placed back the original bulb and it no longer works. The bulb filament is still intact though.

Is it just dodgy contacts within the switches for where the bulbs gain a contact?

Thanks in advance

I have seen other cars with this problem, so it can't be that unusual. The interior lights (one near the rear view mirror and the other mounted above the middle of the rear parcel shelf) have three tiltable settings:- OFF/ON WHEN DOORS OPEN/ALWAYS ON/

The 'OFF' or continous 'ON' work fine. The problem is the 'ON WHEN DOORS OPEN' setting on my car they stay off. The white relay:-



when plugged it does nothing. I guess it could be faulty, is there an easy test?

What else could cause this?

Cheers

I am looking for some chassis/frame paint/epoxy - any sugesstions?

many thanks

Craig